got 'em

After 24 hours of rock climbing, I'm back and fully recovered. As expected, this year's event was completely out of order. 240 competitors stormed the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, AR and climbed a staggering 11,937 routes.

Eleven thousand,

nine hundred,

thirty seven routes.

Wow.

23 of those individuals joined the Century Club this year by sending a minimum of 100 routes during the 24 hour competition. Shout outs to Alex Honnold who smashed Tommy Caldwell's score, Daniel Schuerch who locked down 160 routes, and Dane Iwata and Marc Chagnon, first time competitors who each climbed 101 pitches. A huge step up from last year- definitely impressed, definitely inspired!

Photo by John Budde

I think the truly amazing thing about this event is that it allows competitors to set new personal goals every year, and there seems to be a definite evolution- from simply wanting to finish, to aiming for big numbers, to exclusively climbing on gear, to gunning for the top 10. The list of possible challenges and their combinations is endless. It's crazy! 24HHH has a versatility that a traditional climbing competition just doesn't have. I suppose the primary goal would be to place top 3, but it's nice to throw out the conventional competitive playbook as it were, and to, instead, construct your own personal goal(s). I often joke that no one actually wins this event (I mean, really- you're essentially suffering for 24 hours), but the reality is that this is the only event where there can be 240 winners. A bit after-school special, I know, but it's refreshing to see such camaraderie, and such genuine congratulatory exchanges between competitors. It's mind blowing how supportive this community is.

The only way I can think to describe the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is that it's like going to war. I apologize if this analogy seems crass or in bad taste, but you're sharing an incredibly unique experience with strangers who quickly become allies and friends. You help carry each other, you're invested in everyone's performance, and you want everyone to make goal- to make it to Sunday morning. And, once it's over, you share a connection, a bond, that no one else can relate to. It's a difficult energy to articulate, but perhaps you'll have to sign up next year to find out!

Photo by Gina Wilmott

Even though we hadn't talked about the competition much (or at all, really), my partner John and I had a clear objective for this year's two-four. We both wanted to climb 100 routes over the course of 24 hours. When we broke it down to the numbers (i.e. how many routes we needed to average per hour, how much time we could spend on a each route to stay on target, etc.), the task seemed daunting- impossible, really. But, the challenge of making the seemingly impossible seem effortless is what draws me to climbing, and I certainly wasn't going to let doubt dictate the outcome of this event.

Now, I'm not much for planning; so scoping out routes beforehand, keeping track of our progress, and watching the clock seemed like too much work for me. Instead, we came to the conclusion that the best strategy was to keep it simple.

We decided to wing it.

Admittedly, the sustainability of the "Can't Stop, Won't Stop" campaign did come into question early on, but it was the only plan we had, so we rolled with it. We also made it a point to not keep track of our progress- we simply updated our scorecard when time permitted. I didn't want us to feel dejected if we were behind, or to relax our pace if we were ahead. I think it's important to never let doubt or hubris dictate the outcome- you have to stay hungry, regardless of how things are transpiring, if you want to succeed. That being said, we hadn't looked at our progress until the halfway point. When we turned in our scorecards at the check-in, we were stoked to see that we were on track. At 10 p.m. we had bagged 50 routes each! Yeah-yuh!

Photo by Scott Fitzgerald

Fueled by the good news and the good vibes that electrified the North 40, we punched the clock. A brief rain shower in the middle of the night gave us a bit of a scare. We were, of course, worried that if the rain continued (or worse, intensified), our chances of making goal would be jeopardized. Fortunately, the rain moved out and when all was said and done, John and I had exceeded our goal (albeit by a small margin). We each climbed 106 routes- 212 total over the course of 24 hours, and we also managed to eke our way into the top 10. Got 'em!

Can't Knock This Hustle

It was a big year for the two four event- I can't thank Andy, his team, the HCR Staff, the volunteers, the sponsors, and, of course, Barry and Amy enough for putting on such an amazing event year, after year. It truly is one of the best climbing events in the country- if not the best. If visiting the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is part of your Fall season, please make sure to follow the new guidelines. Do your part by picking up trash and paying for your camping/day-use fees. Barry, Amy, Jason, and the crew are nice enough to let us climb on the property, we should reciprocate by respecting their rules!

Thanks for reading, we'll see everyone next year! I can't wait!

Video by Andy Chasteen

time check

This past Saturday marked my first day back in Southern Illinois since March. Admittedly, a visit to Jackson Falls this early on may have been a bit premature, but I was driven by sheer desperation. In the three years that I've been climbing in Illinois, I have never once bothered to visit during the summer. But, weeks of pulling on plastic, and the prospect of spending the day with my friends made my decision an easy one to make. Humidity, the conventional kryptonite, was relatively low, and a session at Railroad Rock made things far more enjoyable as we were able to dodge direct sun-light.

Photo by Alex Gamble, 24HHH 2008

All things considered, it was a fairly productive day. The day began with an onsight of American Hand Gunner (5.11d), a route notoriously difficult for the grade. American Hand Gunner was a route that I always wanted to do, but never made time for. Limited time, and higher priority projects always forces certain routes further, and further down the list. It's unfortunate, because many of these routes are often five-star. They simply don't see as much traffic because they happen to be low in the grade. Stop chasing numbers!

From the ground, American Hand Gunner (like most routes at the Falls) seemed impervious to attack. A closer look revealed a weakness, albeit not much of one. I'll spare the heavy details, but it is definitely worth checking out. American Hand Gunner is like Hidden Treasure (5.12a), without the fluff. Sequential pockets, long moves, a proper boulder problem on credit card sized crimps, and an exciting top out. It's a brilliant example of the unique brand of challenging movement only found in Southern Illinois. Stellar!

The rest of the day included a repeat of Barbarians at the Gate (5.12a/b), an exciting lesson in poor decision making on Slabstick Comedy (5.12a), and a less than valiant effort on Everybody Needs Friends (5.12a).

I still find it surprising that people don't recognize Jackson Falls as a five-star locale. Southern Illinois is home to the most brilliant and engaging sandstone I have ever encountered. And sure- with my limited experience, that may not be the highest of endorsements. But, for what it's worth, I still think So Ill is top notch.

www.twofourhell.com

In other news, the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell Competition is this weekend. I've teamed up with my friend John Oungst, who, back in 2006, was my partner during the first 24HHH. I'm excited to have John on board, and I can't wait to cover as much vertical mileage as possible! I'll be sure to chronicle the weekend once we've had a chance to recover from the self-inflicted sleep deprivation. Fortunately for us, the weather looks as if it will be letting up. Even though we'll be suffering on the inside, we can at least enjoy blue skies, good conditions, and the company of the 200+ individuals who will all inevitably regret their decision to sign up for this event.

Yeah-Yuh!

Which reminds me- Fall is fast approaching! Months of relentless plastic pulling, hyper-focused conditioning, and over-all suffering for that singular pursuit is about to pay off. Despite the ups and downs along the way, I'm excited for the season. I've outlined a few goals/projects, and the plan is to stay focused, to stay hungry, and to grow from the experience. Staying driven is key- it's commitment, not excuses, that makes progress possible. That being said- enjoy this short by Mike Call, featuring Jacinda Hunter, and get psyched for your season!

the weekend warrior

Photo by Aaron Stover

Two weeks have passed since I returned home from the last leg of my trip. Things have slowed down a bit, and transitioning into a different lifestyle certainly has its challenges. Being that the season at home has yet to turn over, climbing has been put on the back burner. My responsibilities are few and far between, and I've found it difficult to flesh out an agenda. I've been spending most of my time working on some long standing household projects, route setting at the gym, nursing old injuries, and, of course, training on plastic.

Photo by Sophie Binder

Despite the limbo, the Fall season is making its way in and motivation is high. Though I have not finalized my decision, I am strongly leaning towards deferring employment until the end of the season. After several months on the road, I realized that I no longer want the full time job I had pursued so aggressively last year- at least not at the moment. Flexibility and spontaneity are far more rewarding than a paycheck. Certainly, if something lucrative were to make itself available I would not turn it down (I may be young, but I'm not foolish). I realize that I can only use my age as an excuse for so long, but I've had my fill of planning. Since March, the plan has been to have no plan, and this maxim has turned 2010 (an otherwise crippling year) around.

So now I find myself, not waiting, but simmering- anticipating a rapid change for the best. Though my mother's health is improving, I plan to stay home until the end of her treatment. Leaving for another two months at this stage would be a bad call. Instead, I have decided to join the ranks as a weekend warrior. It's been a long time since I've had to commute to the office, but, as they often do, situations and circumstances change, and in order to succeed, we must adapt. Initially, I feared that without a proper season (one in which I moved to the crag) I would not be able to accomplish many of my short term and long term goals, but my good friend and personal hero, Rob Smith, assured me that even weekend visits can yield high returns.

So, this weekend I punched the clock and set out for the Red. My goals were to do some reconnaissance on prospective projects for the season, and to clean up shop at the Motherlode. I left Kentucky at the end of the Spring thinking that I had finished every 13a at the Lode, but a closer inspection of the guidebook revealed that I had overlooked a route called "Hoofmaker." Hoofmaker is an amazing route that features an incredibly physical and seemingly improbable boulder problem through the first four bolts, and concludes with sustained, fitness-based climbing.

My first day on the route was disappointing to say the least. Hot, hot heat and humid conditions contributed to an embarrassing onsight attempt, and an uninspired second go beta burn. Dejected, I decided that a partial day of multi-pitch bouldering had, at the very least, given me an idea as to how the route goes. The following day conditions were a bit better. Most of the humidity had burned off (key) and it was a bit cooler as well. I was able to one hang the route on my first go, and after acquiring some savvy beta from Cincinnati resident Scott Fisk, I was able to clip the chains next go. Yeah-yuh!

The day ended with a flash of Rocket Dog (5.12b), thanks to my good friend, John Oungst, who provided all the vitals. Climbing is full of short-lived victories, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I think being hungry despite the results (good or bad) is what makes progress possible.

This in mind, I turned my attention to the Madness Cave and ran a lap on Flour Power (5.13b). Knowing I was in no position to give it a proper onsight attempt, I chose instead to beta check the route by going bolt to bolt in the steep section. Initial impressions? Way steep, way killer, way psyched! The climbing following the obligatory sit down rest tackles small pockets and perfect crimps which give way to finger buckets at the fifth bolt. A race to the second to last bolt yields a great rest before the last tough bit- a long left hand cross through (either from a knee bar, heel hook, or a distant right foot) to a positive hold, a match, and several moves through sloping crimps. It's not quite as sustained as BOHICA, and some of the holds are considerably larger, but it certainly is cruxier. When things cool off I'll be back to make big links, clip chains, and Push up Daisies (5.13c)!

Tony O'Connor Straight Hustlin'

Despite the touch and go conditions, the weekend was a complete success. Team Saint Louis rolled on the Gorge deep (twenty people in total), making for great company, great conversation, and great entertainment. I even got hooked up with a haircut! Thanks again, Marion! It's a shame that full-time jobs prevent us from doing these sort of things more often, but I'm sure there will be other opportunities to hang. Until then, cheers!

Homies