estimated time of arrival

The days leading up to my visit to West Texas have been hectic to say the least. With the winter weather on it's way out, I only had a few days left to tie up loose ends in Southern Illinois. Recently I've been finding that time itself is a commodity, but with a little bit of planning, hard work, and enough motivation things can still get done.

Case in point- last Friday I drove down to Illinois and was successfully able to send Titlest (V8/9). I was on a mission for sure- I had only budgeted enough time to drive there, warm up, try the problem a hand full of times, and drive back in order to make it back to work on time.

It was nice to put Titlest down before leaving for Hueco. Not only was it a great litmus test for the past few months of training, it was also a definite morale booster. I feel fairly confident that I've made remarkable improvements both in terms of strength and power (the difference of course being that power is the amount of strength one is able to output over time). It was also nice to put down a route that was considered to be one of the first hard lines in the area. I've looked at it for years and was drawn to it's savage simplicity.  It's the perfect problem- one that demands power and unforgiving accuracy for someone with my proportions (read: height). Not only is the line difficult, it's stunning as well. Very proud to have done it this year. Watch out for the video when I get back!

The following Sunday I made it down to The Beach with a few friends where I was able to flash Sex on the Beach (V5) and grab quick sends of King of Smears (V4+) and an unknown problem on the back side of the main Beach boulder (V5/6). In addition to a tour of the classics, I made great head way on another problem on the same boulder that clocked in around V8/9. While I was unable to seal the deal, I'm fairly confident that when I return I'll be able to summit quickly.

Ian Anderson, King of Smears (V4)

But that's yesterday's news and right now I'm on my way to El Paso for two weeks. I'm not sure what to expect, but I'm eager to test my sensibilities and push myself physically. The line between having goals and having expectations is thin. It's difficult to say what I want, but at a very basic level I want to climb well- calculated, composed, and intuitively. I'm not sure what to expect, but I'll keep interested readers abreast of the situation once the opportunity arises. 

looking forward to going back

Things have picked up on my end since I posted last. I've been running myself into the ground in an attempt to shore up enough cash to fund prospective travel for the upcoming Spring season. It's been a paper chase since the year started, and what little free time I have has been spent climbing in Southern Illinois and rehabbing some newly acquired injuries.

Photo by Dane Iwata

A few weeks ago I managed to strain some of the musculature in my shoulder. Being no stranger to injury, I spent two weeks icing, utilizing hot/cold therapy, and abstaining from climbing (for the most part). Despite a relatively promising recovery, I decided to see my friend Dr. Anthony Miller in order to get the 411. In the past, Dr. Miller has treated me for both medial epiconylitis in my left elbow and popliteus tendinitis in my left knee. Fully knowing how bad those particular injuries became over time, I decided to get an early start on the road to recovery. Also, having just gained some momentum in my climbing, I didn't want to jeopardize my progress by incorrectly addressing my injury.

From what I understand, and I encourage any readers who are more knowledgeable regarding this subject to correct me, my injury was the result of another weak link in the chain. When the muscles in my shoulders and back are engaged, my scapula lifts off of my back. This in turn changes the way in which related muscle groups are articulated when being used. The result of this shift is an increased strain on certain muscles as they are not meant to be stressed in such an abnormal fashion.

It was made clear to me by Dr. Miller that my prognosis was very good, and that the proactive measures I took early on made certain that I would be back in the vertical world relatively soon. It's been two weeks since I started a proper rehab routine (a combination of electro-stimulation, manipulations/massage, body weight exercises, and a comprehensive theraband workout), and things are going quite well. Although I have noticed that climbing in general doesn't seem to aggravate my shoulder, but oddly enough most activities at work (stocking, bagging, etc) do. Oh well. Gotta get paid.

In other news, I just finalized plans to hit Las Vegas during the first week in April. My friend Natalie and I have been kicking around the idea for some time now, but we were finally able to pin down specifics last week. 8 days in Sin City? Yes sir. 

I haven't climbed on a rope since I finished my Fall season in Kentucky, and I haven't been to Vegas in years. In a lot of ways Red Rock Canyon was the first place where I felt compelled to improve my climbing. It was the first proper sport climbing trip I had ever been on, and it definitely helped shape my passion for the sport. I'm looking forward to going back, running up vertical mileage, and relaxing in fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada.

Finally, last week my friend David and I made our way back to the Roost. The snow storm that was projected to devastate our region had, for the most part, missed Southern Illinois. Fantastic. 

We found three new problems, two of which are featured in the video above. While I was unable to do the long, dead-point crux move on Danger Mouse (V7), I was able to get the FA of the lesser line which climbs in from the left (Of Mice and Men, V5). Both problems are a little breezy, 20+ feet?  Get some.

Part Time Ninja (V8) was definitely the plum line- body tension, big move crimp climbing, and an exciting finish. Having spent most of my day trying Titlest (V8) at the Falls proper, I was too spent to stick the crux on point. Can't wait to go back and put both down.

Until then, it's just a run down the clock scenario.

Hueco: 8 Days