the weekend warrior

Photo by Aaron Stover

Two weeks have passed since I returned home from the last leg of my trip. Things have slowed down a bit, and transitioning into a different lifestyle certainly has its challenges. Being that the season at home has yet to turn over, climbing has been put on the back burner. My responsibilities are few and far between, and I've found it difficult to flesh out an agenda. I've been spending most of my time working on some long standing household projects, route setting at the gym, nursing old injuries, and, of course, training on plastic.

Photo by Sophie Binder

Despite the limbo, the Fall season is making its way in and motivation is high. Though I have not finalized my decision, I am strongly leaning towards deferring employment until the end of the season. After several months on the road, I realized that I no longer want the full time job I had pursued so aggressively last year- at least not at the moment. Flexibility and spontaneity are far more rewarding than a paycheck. Certainly, if something lucrative were to make itself available I would not turn it down (I may be young, but I'm not foolish). I realize that I can only use my age as an excuse for so long, but I've had my fill of planning. Since March, the plan has been to have no plan, and this maxim has turned 2010 (an otherwise crippling year) around.

So now I find myself, not waiting, but simmering- anticipating a rapid change for the best. Though my mother's health is improving, I plan to stay home until the end of her treatment. Leaving for another two months at this stage would be a bad call. Instead, I have decided to join the ranks as a weekend warrior. It's been a long time since I've had to commute to the office, but, as they often do, situations and circumstances change, and in order to succeed, we must adapt. Initially, I feared that without a proper season (one in which I moved to the crag) I would not be able to accomplish many of my short term and long term goals, but my good friend and personal hero, Rob Smith, assured me that even weekend visits can yield high returns.

So, this weekend I punched the clock and set out for the Red. My goals were to do some reconnaissance on prospective projects for the season, and to clean up shop at the Motherlode. I left Kentucky at the end of the Spring thinking that I had finished every 13a at the Lode, but a closer inspection of the guidebook revealed that I had overlooked a route called "Hoofmaker." Hoofmaker is an amazing route that features an incredibly physical and seemingly improbable boulder problem through the first four bolts, and concludes with sustained, fitness-based climbing.

My first day on the route was disappointing to say the least. Hot, hot heat and humid conditions contributed to an embarrassing onsight attempt, and an uninspired second go beta burn. Dejected, I decided that a partial day of multi-pitch bouldering had, at the very least, given me an idea as to how the route goes. The following day conditions were a bit better. Most of the humidity had burned off (key) and it was a bit cooler as well. I was able to one hang the route on my first go, and after acquiring some savvy beta from Cincinnati resident Scott Fisk, I was able to clip the chains next go. Yeah-yuh!

The day ended with a flash of Rocket Dog (5.12b), thanks to my good friend, John Oungst, who provided all the vitals. Climbing is full of short-lived victories, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I think being hungry despite the results (good or bad) is what makes progress possible.

This in mind, I turned my attention to the Madness Cave and ran a lap on Flour Power (5.13b). Knowing I was in no position to give it a proper onsight attempt, I chose instead to beta check the route by going bolt to bolt in the steep section. Initial impressions? Way steep, way killer, way psyched! The climbing following the obligatory sit down rest tackles small pockets and perfect crimps which give way to finger buckets at the fifth bolt. A race to the second to last bolt yields a great rest before the last tough bit- a long left hand cross through (either from a knee bar, heel hook, or a distant right foot) to a positive hold, a match, and several moves through sloping crimps. It's not quite as sustained as BOHICA, and some of the holds are considerably larger, but it certainly is cruxier. When things cool off I'll be back to make big links, clip chains, and Push up Daisies (5.13c)!

Tony O'Connor Straight Hustlin'

Despite the touch and go conditions, the weekend was a complete success. Team Saint Louis rolled on the Gorge deep (twenty people in total), making for great company, great conversation, and great entertainment. I even got hooked up with a haircut! Thanks again, Marion! It's a shame that full-time jobs prevent us from doing these sort of things more often, but I'm sure there will be other opportunities to hang. Until then, cheers!

Homies