tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37013876238798900192024-02-07T21:48:53.636-08:00yusuf daneshyar's blogclimb : travel : exploreyusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-46139291779260382632011-06-04T13:10:00.000-07:002011-06-04T15:21:47.528-07:00diesel<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I recently quit my job at the grocery store and headed north in an attempt to break the cycle. The constant back and forth between working erratic hours at the store and jumping in the saddle to go climbing started to take its toll. I created a lifestyle for myself in which I was either working so I could afford to travel, traveling so I could go climbing, or climbing because, let's face it, it's fucking awesome. Bottom line: it was time to do something different.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">I started out by visiting my sister in Chicago. She just graduated from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and I couldn't be happier for her. So proud! After enjoying the weekend with my family, I hopped on a plane and made way to Canada. I arrived in Toronto roughly two weeks ago, and I've since had the opportunity to catch up with my friends, explore the city, and ultimately do what ever it is that I want to do.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvLwuHOMn50ns3zzeJKQUoH28CHLhzMusVNNVws3CUCHpdQRq1Dw_DZbWImY4nNoU1TYRkfxUy_QXzTs4D-i6coDouTKI6c1DziLTfudJwes5ePj9VjKuYShoatRO5RyL2EPkLZT1UHSc6/s400/1.JPG" width="298" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvLwuHOMn50ns3zzeJKQUoH28CHLhzMusVNNVws3CUCHpdQRq1Dw_DZbWImY4nNoU1TYRkfxUy_QXzTs4D-i6coDouTKI6c1DziLTfudJwes5ePj9VjKuYShoatRO5RyL2EPkLZT1UHSc6/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Surprisingly, the only thing I haven't been able do is any proper rock climbing. As is the case almost everywhere in North America, it's been raining. <i>A lot.</i> But last weekend a break in the forecast was enough to justify the 250 kilometer drive up north to Lion's Head. Unfortunately for us, despite the absence of precipitation, the entire cliff was saturated. Even the back up cliff, White's Bluff, was unclimbable. So we did what you do when things look bleak- we drank beer, we made up games, we acted foolish, and we made lemons into lemonade. As my friend Stephan pointed out, <i>Some times you go rock climbing, and some times you don't.</i> This time around we certainly didn't do anything that remotely resembled rock climbing, but we had a great time any way.</span></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpxU8TxZt0VVeYPz8BLprdegLK36aq_DMBkQm4PDlNw7VN7mgVvYvv0PNR4iea-axP29Do8OdrXJuexXVgNhHxkWPFxL9ihbA_dxuPakNPbFejWRJMytPsrW_YTYTnmQRXU_NXVlYJ5AI/s400/storefront.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="298" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storefront Display @ Mini Mioche</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPVmacXuqYJMsklqdXTiyHdag8qBbCcUDXmyqWyUfSWRfejPp0pQqDKPXrH_1TwlYZi_1VqJpVadVaWH3Zv8u9XSf5dEBusMbI-Klu7DYFhq821CF_EAPWXttgnA1VLIMUj3XaYxkJqrz5/s400/5.JPG" width="400" /></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">So while we wait for the weather to get its shit together, I've been pursuing other interests. I bought a beater bike and I've spent most of my days riding around the city, finding little gems, catching up on some personal work, and enjoying the stability found in the simplicity therein. As odd as it may seem, I'm enjoying the day to day I have here. Rock climbing has monopolized my time recently. And all things considered, I personally feel as though I haven't made any significant improvements in my actual ability to rock climb in quite some time. Trying to carve a path for yourself physically, mentally, and emotionally takes an unrelenting commitment to self-improvement. It's a lot of work. And sometimes that work isn't fun. But that's why it's such an incredible and rewarding experience. But, pursuing any endeavor so relentlessly is far from sustainable. So, while I truly enjoy living on the run, it seemed like it was time to ease my foot on to the brake.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnS9ctD9Le9_T5KUTpl64Uj448pdN-Q2q_6ljbSeFfeTx5P26r4TPHqwfvu728HrcPn5ioNBkmqVeOs8Y2uJpg9QSVKb8_JrNP9_qi8_z7MFVJxu61DLXbhN-GzBz9h6KB204RIfK0awz/s1600/oddsandends.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRnS9ctD9Le9_T5KUTpl64Uj448pdN-Q2q_6ljbSeFfeTx5P26r4TPHqwfvu728HrcPn5ioNBkmqVeOs8Y2uJpg9QSVKb8_JrNP9_qi8_z7MFVJxu61DLXbhN-GzBz9h6KB204RIfK0awz/s400/oddsandends.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The G-Ride</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh3KTR7S-PRuR62P4bffNja1xctRgfH1ul5np_mKcydS8G1ixVSW5dcZEivOfkQ7GNSos64DPVw3K36Rx3t8rl-TnYlM87mtnAecf8gTD6nWz7QLhEBUIjXYN2FMeHmYHfeh-YzHOqYTJ/s1600/photo.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXh3KTR7S-PRuR62P4bffNja1xctRgfH1ul5np_mKcydS8G1ixVSW5dcZEivOfkQ7GNSos64DPVw3K36Rx3t8rl-TnYlM87mtnAecf8gTD6nWz7QLhEBUIjXYN2FMeHmYHfeh-YzHOqYTJ/s400/photo.JPG" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Genuine Canadian Steel</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 85%;">Obviously this will be short lived, as it certainly isn't normalcy in the sense that I can count on it for much longer. But I'm enjoying my break from reality- or at least what became my reality for the past two years. I've had this discussion with many of my friends, and many of them have admitted that feigning sympathy for my situation is not an easy thing to do. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">But I'm not looking for sympathy. What I'm looking for is a better understanding of our collective circumstances. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">The fact of the matter is that cliches like "the grass is always greener" exist because there's a profound truth to them. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRP8_e3XEyG5_HwWtb9SSr0gcJLjLxWORw2FW8s_JQSxwIMPWQ0Ni2PHNJKZE1AnVgN9MpicFy62QHyWRCFY-CoshTekOrsmkn_GNBKn0AL6zgS_Vf1O1e4dwumncMpPSlCtp189beQjHv/s1600/spoon.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRP8_e3XEyG5_HwWtb9SSr0gcJLjLxWORw2FW8s_JQSxwIMPWQ0Ni2PHNJKZE1AnVgN9MpicFy62QHyWRCFY-CoshTekOrsmkn_GNBKn0AL6zgS_Vf1O1e4dwumncMpPSlCtp189beQjHv/s400/spoon.JPG" width="400" /></a><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I've not had the stability that many people have and so often take for granted. And while I'm willing to admit that part of this has been my own doing, I certainly don't value stability any less. We're creatures of habit; we like security and the comfort inherent to such an institution. But regardless of my current state of affairs, I remain positive that I'll find my rhythm- one that will afford me the balanced lifestyle I've been looking for. Just like it goes in rock climbing, sometimes all you need to do is wait for the right conditions, </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">let go of the head games, </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">and, above all else, commit when you find yourself in a position to make that final push for the summit.</span><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsvDFAnUT_tSEZ5TtOBFFVvkfr8AQ2rNzaMEAZGqnnAb9KqVx7KFaPYnjBaKKiXQvneJvLL6cRP1XHFDr7Rh1kQXQqfcLbovy0b7rxengozasqKmI7oUr-0eGAcZBQ2qBzckqoPeBOyH2/s1600/a1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsvDFAnUT_tSEZ5TtOBFFVvkfr8AQ2rNzaMEAZGqnnAb9KqVx7KFaPYnjBaKKiXQvneJvLL6cRP1XHFDr7Rh1kQXQqfcLbovy0b7rxengozasqKmI7oUr-0eGAcZBQ2qBzckqoPeBOyH2/s400/a1.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
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</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">But! Until then I'll just keep plugging away. There are worse ways to spend the transitional phases in your life, right? I'm not hurting anyone. I'm not whittling away years of my life stuck in an office. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">I'm not making excuses or wishing things were different. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> I'm just trying to stay grounded and maybe do some rock climbing along the way.</span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-26845556860050829642011-05-22T13:48:00.000-07:002011-05-29T21:17:25.766-07:00warrior mode<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Last month I made my way out East to meet up with my friend Natalie and the rest of the lifers in Beattyville, Kentucky. The forecast was questionable at best, but life's too short to play it safe. It's good to gamble every now and then. And besides, I just got back from Vegas. I was feeling lucky.</span><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLHQyNqHq6QqumNuV6osFSpxbsm1v55a9nQdptuJzDyNmfC9kN0OsWga_n1xXEFFn3mY15apD6NerQN5EvEvNReowaeQXqIXGKA1C1oUR-t4g_vdSHUYgD686ZRukHgFs3FaibL6B1MoL/s1600/IMG_4666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLHQyNqHq6QqumNuV6osFSpxbsm1v55a9nQdptuJzDyNmfC9kN0OsWga_n1xXEFFn3mY15apD6NerQN5EvEvNReowaeQXqIXGKA1C1oUR-t4g_vdSHUYgD686ZRukHgFs3FaibL6B1MoL/s640/IMG_4666.JPG" width="426" /></a><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">At the outset of my visit I knew that time wasn't on my side, so I got to work right away. Things on the short list started out relatively well. I began my brief campaign at the Motherlode where I was able to one hang The Madness (5.13c) quickly. I of course realize that one hanging a 130 ft. pitch at the 100 foot mark doesn't guarantee anything, but </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">I chalked it up as a small success and decided I needed a mental break from this particular route.</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">So the following day I changed the venue and headed to Bob Marley Crag with my sights set on No Redemption (5.13b). Jimmy Webb had done the route the day before and he was able to give me the quick and dirty on the pitch. After two attempts I felt that a proper redpoint needed nothing more than adequate conditions. Previous days had been remarkably hot and humid, and unfortunately for us, the weather didn't look as though it would break any time soon. But what are you going to do? Make excuses, or take a swing? I figured I'd plan on hitting the cliff when things turned around.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">But in the mean time I managed to run in to some bad luck. What started out as <i>the</i> day to siege quickly turned into multiple days of getting my life together. The short bit is that my car got broken into. Almost everything stolen. Fuck. My. Life. But what are you going to do? In life you generally have two options: you can get bent, shut down, and let the past poison the present, or you can get your fucking life together and handle your shit so you can go rock climbing.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">So gears had to switch and I spent the next two days on the phone with the police, the bank, my insurance company, local collision centers, credit card companies, my cell service provider, work, and all the other institutions that have a hand in making it possible to live on the grid. At the end of the day, losing my things wasn't really something I was concerned with. It was losing my time, my momentum, and my relentless optimism.</span><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim5t9cy0RLgnkvdH0iYLzceW6o4JXnAE9wC7wOjG1oFtPIEKZjxzN7nd9k3KFyfx0GhY_YtFULwtF9DChDZURsVd-A_RAUE5KgbSP3s1-6St-RvQksjcjJ20osOCXswbvjZltYS2si_v-9/s1600/IMG_4849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MI72C9A67eWQsBVpHvJmQ6h2dEbd7LyYejZEQ-B2IjDIGnxxx656JEifW0EfOE8jsgGCyg8dUumdk84muVE9D4nNJ3HEnGRQwuCpUvOM_zZi_q6RNBKAddLvGsHcfeZ46SgUZP_B3rff/s1600/IMG_4532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MI72C9A67eWQsBVpHvJmQ6h2dEbd7LyYejZEQ-B2IjDIGnxxx656JEifW0EfOE8jsgGCyg8dUumdk84muVE9D4nNJ3HEnGRQwuCpUvOM_zZi_q6RNBKAddLvGsHcfeZ46SgUZP_B3rff/s400/IMG_4532.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">But like I said, when the trajectory of your life changes unexpectedly you can either pack up and head out, or you can bring the big heavy and deal with it head on. No matter how hard gravity hits, there are moments where you need realize that no one owes you anything, and if you want something bad enough you just have to take it. It's never fun going solo when things look bleak, but this is how you define yourself as a warrior: an individual who can endure suffering in any number of capacities, an individual who tries <i><b>fucking hard</b></i> despite the circumstances, and an individual who knows that you miss 100% of the shots you don't take.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">So after setting things in motion it was time to head back to cliff. Despite bleak conditions I went back to No Redemption and was able to clip the chains on my first go of the day. It felt good to pull the trigger on this one. The route is fucking brilliant: powerful, low percentage moves on sculpted holds scattered over 70 feet of golden, vertical stone. Absolutely savage precision. Definitely one of the best I've ever done. So psyched.</span><br />
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</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">As I often do, I kept celebrations brief and my friend David and I headed to Left Flank. Still hungry for more, I gave Table of Colors (5.13a) a go. I was able to send the route second try, and while I don't much like this style of climbing, I can certainly appreciate the history behind the route. As long as I've been climbing at the Gorge, no other route in the grade seems to carry as much weight. I've heard people refer to it as <i>the </i>13a<i> </i>test piece. Not sure if I agree, but an interesting climb nonetheless.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The following day we headed over to Drive-By where I was able to hook up Easy Rider (5.13a) first go, despite some wet holds going to the chains. It always feels good to siege a 100+ foot pitch. Straight up warrior mode. No tact, no finesse, just an all out assault. Proper endurance climbing with a heart breaker move at the anchors. Full value- thanks to Mike Doyle for equipping what will inevitably become another classic route in the grade for the Gorge.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6TvmA1hkKp0KTKF7Bv-nO3w4yMtixuo4hCQ7lLgA3D8dP14iTVW85IstP4RKEFWxYo-Tr9hMqwo8EcHCXwSgQC0Bf3OgGYIDYA2cC3TdivAUqCiuBKQ-X9lrrUjna1OT9rZmbiGWsxmV/s1600/katherinesmith.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6TvmA1hkKp0KTKF7Bv-nO3w4yMtixuo4hCQ7lLgA3D8dP14iTVW85IstP4RKEFWxYo-Tr9hMqwo8EcHCXwSgQC0Bf3OgGYIDYA2cC3TdivAUqCiuBKQ-X9lrrUjna1OT9rZmbiGWsxmV/s640/katherinesmith.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Katherine Smith</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: 85%;">When things get stressful it's good to take a step back and recalibrate. Sometimes you need to take fifteen minutes to regroup, to make your mind right. And sometimes you need three weeks. </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Even though I was able to buy more time due to the circumstances, I found it quite challenging to find a rhythm. The weather prevented us from hitting the cliff regularly and after a few days of great climbing, things came to a grinding halt. Torrential downpour and spikes in humidity kept us shut in Brendan's trailer, and being that I live out of my truck, a broken window provided the challenge of some cold nights. And sure, it would have been nice to do The Madness and some other routes, but that's what's amazing about rock climbing. You always get another chance to try. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Besides, what's the point of getting wound up over some rain? It's always sunny somewhere else, right? It's better for your heart to live your life the way it plays out instead of getting warped about how you'd like things to be. And truth be told, I don't wish that things went differently. Wishes never come true any way. All you can do is play the cards you're dealt and keep swinging when your back's up against the wall.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Life on the run provides an infinite number of challenging encounters. A fortunate by product of this reality is that it allows (or sometimes forces) you to learn, to adapt, and to change your perspective. Life can change dramatically even if nothing actually happens at all. It's a peculiar thing to flip a switch and start living differently when the right episodes play out. While I've given up stability, roots, financial security, and the like, I've managed to develop a relentless ability to swing for the fences- even when things look bleak. It's warrior mode. I'm militant minded. I wouldn't trade it for anything.</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-81377376544009048382011-04-12T20:31:00.000-07:002011-04-12T20:35:15.550-07:00lost wages<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So I got back from Lost Wages late last night, and it goes without saying that I'm completely disoriented. Vegas is disorienting. Flips your lid sometimes. My life is a fucking mess.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I've never spent such little time in one place and felt as though it was an eternity. The desert can be a harsh environment: no water, no escape from the sun, and unpredictable weather. But that's what makes the desert an intriguing place to live: you're not supposed to, and yet we try. I found it ironic that a place like Las Vegas, one in which everyone's basic needs have mutated into needs in excess, did little to provide shelter from the desert. In other words: it's almost impossible to relax in Las Vegas. By day four my sunny disposition and relentless optimism had taken a critical hit.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Vegas has a peculiar energy, one that was not on my radar during my last visit. My previous visits I went in with blinders on; solely focused on the climbing and not really experiencing the absurdity and over-the-top, perverted illusion of luxury that is Las Vegas. It's funny how perspectives change once you've acquired more lenses.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhC_HMtXhuIehwg8yIdRV333usq8Ai-poiCBH0nb06ZYFHJbmuYP6S3H8cgJyIcYz4hmsGWjhgR4OASRhbQfUEtTgFdjzdnrZoxeqt-Qf-9breaiZ0ECMFri2Lhw8iDtewQCoqWhgO3XVO/s1600/207361_10150221548101075_683556074_8900352_3339673_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhC_HMtXhuIehwg8yIdRV333usq8Ai-poiCBH0nb06ZYFHJbmuYP6S3H8cgJyIcYz4hmsGWjhgR4OASRhbQfUEtTgFdjzdnrZoxeqt-Qf-9breaiZ0ECMFri2Lhw8iDtewQCoqWhgO3XVO/s320/207361_10150221548101075_683556074_8900352_3339673_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Social commentary aside, I was pleased with our tour of the area. As a last minute game changer, the opportunity to check out the Kraft Boulders came up. The days at the boulders turned out to be some of our favorite days simply because we were able to cover more ground quickly. While the concentration in this area is low, what problems happen to exist on these boulders are amazing. Big, varnished sandstone blocks with improbable combinations of unique holds- what's not to like? This is what makes certain routes and boulders impressive. Had some of these blocks landed in a different orientation they might not be climbable at all, or they might have yielded a completely different set of challenges. It's when factors like these come together and harmonize that makes life an amazing thing. It's good to be alive, no?</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXSXpzu7K7P0plzOosAa0cdshElgNkeP46fxEHyEJKl44Wzap7aLcCdhrZWEqKeqUUzN_y3n7ivOYBgqTM3yPCQV3btTgnyE99LktMO_2rQluBMUSqxohCo7po9sQkE6Jbv0cVp2uk_4i/s1600/215329_10150221529791075_683556074_8900014_6545352_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXSXpzu7K7P0plzOosAa0cdshElgNkeP46fxEHyEJKl44Wzap7aLcCdhrZWEqKeqUUzN_y3n7ivOYBgqTM3yPCQV3btTgnyE99LktMO_2rQluBMUSqxohCo7po9sQkE6Jbv0cVp2uk_4i/s320/215329_10150221529791075_683556074_8900014_6545352_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Aside from appreciating small, amazing things, it also came to my attention that for the first time climbing had taken a back seat. It was strange to go climbing without the same hunger, drive, and relentless commitment that I typically throw with. But you can't fake passion and if it's not there you just roll with the next best thing- having fun with your friends, climbing rocks, playing in the dirt, and drinking margaritas.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpWGM-7q8XUEljkG4I72EopvKKhSIKG23wNLUn91ufC8uS4HuxV_R6S_f0yWqC5V2Fqgoui4-XbWkZo4fGWJmaURp1t_SQYj53EU6qfxLFIw-mDMRN7M6rQfwycGqYpuw-Ixi7Ln4i612F/s1600/215663_10150221531136075_683556074_8900030_6858900_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpWGM-7q8XUEljkG4I72EopvKKhSIKG23wNLUn91ufC8uS4HuxV_R6S_f0yWqC5V2Fqgoui4-XbWkZo4fGWJmaURp1t_SQYj53EU6qfxLFIw-mDMRN7M6rQfwycGqYpuw-Ixi7Ln4i612F/s320/215663_10150221531136075_683556074_8900030_6858900_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">By now, those of you who are looking for numbers, names, and a tick list are probably disappointed. Trust me, I am too. But sometimes life throws you a curve ball and you can either find any number of factors to blame, or you can swing- accept that you're only human and that it's time to sit down, reflect, change lenses, and try again. Besides, it's Vegas. No one wins big in Vegas, right? Despite how badly you might want something, you might not get it. This is life. It's what makes all the successes that much sweeter.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClg3eNz7TarE8cm_fKnfeL1tCLMZ9fwvlheF6sMDqNl9MsTX1nK1rD1pOmJEbL-KHyCm0UdyIyQTPudFj1BJFQhL_Noe1Qthse1JiLi6id2IgN2N1P3HpxGR9zIyMdr3YU6Sm_6UyI46-/s1600/216467_10150221543931075_683556074_8900248_2817766_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClg3eNz7TarE8cm_fKnfeL1tCLMZ9fwvlheF6sMDqNl9MsTX1nK1rD1pOmJEbL-KHyCm0UdyIyQTPudFj1BJFQhL_Noe1Qthse1JiLi6id2IgN2N1P3HpxGR9zIyMdr3YU6Sm_6UyI46-/s320/216467_10150221543931075_683556074_8900248_2817766_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">[ Small highlights on my end included flashes/onsights of Classic Monkey (V6), Sunny and Steep (5.12a), Give Me Back My Bullets (5.12a), and redpoints of Special K (V6), Angel Dyno (V7), Caliman (V7), and The Glitch (5.12c) ]</span></i><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Honestly, I could talk more about the climbing in Vegas, but the bottom line is that it was nice just to go out and enjoy climbing for what it is- something we're not supposed to do: fighting gravity and having fun doing it.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksdnkyw666C68HiCRGJoYibQYl4TzjQ-E4snr5cVNu5XktCpxwWrsaoM3NhDVHKXhowO_N-Mxx9iROu4MqAqy4CSGENqhUUF0eKo0LdLlpavvN4_nea_fQ5Psx5RY_DjzQXdwgVp2r9lF/s1600/216576_961418422747_13602632_46750397_4660907_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksdnkyw666C68HiCRGJoYibQYl4TzjQ-E4snr5cVNu5XktCpxwWrsaoM3NhDVHKXhowO_N-Mxx9iROu4MqAqy4CSGENqhUUF0eKo0LdLlpavvN4_nea_fQ5Psx5RY_DjzQXdwgVp2r9lF/s320/216576_961418422747_13602632_46750397_4660907_n.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">So now I'm back and ready to find something new. I don't know what that is yet, but I'm sure it will be great. It’s hard to wait for the cues that life hands you, but opportunities fly by every day. Keep your eyes open.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">*Every photo featured in this post was stolen from my friends' respective Facebook pages: Sophie Binder, Yoli Chen, and Natalie Hunter</span><br />
</span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-49132471010743814862011-03-22T13:17:00.000-07:002011-03-22T13:17:01.527-07:00on climbing<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">My primary objective for my visit to Hueco was to fill out my climbing resume. Having spent little to no part of my climbing career with a focus on bouldering, I lacked a respectable catalog of problems in my personal database. Wanting to change things, I decided that it would be best for me to put together at least three problems in every grade from V0 to V8, with a secondary focus on flashing as many moderates as possible. While I could have spent the majority of my visit chasing numbers and burying harder climbs into submission, I thought that deversifying my portfolio of problems would ultimately make me a better climber.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I firmly believe that within climbing a correlation exists between performance and experience. The more experience you have (i.e. the more climbs or moves you have done or even attempted), the more prepared you'll be to execute similar climbs with unwavering precision. Furthermore, I think that experience breeds confidence, and climbing with confidence is the fine line that sets talented climbers apart from the rest.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">As I mentioned in my previous post, after a disappointing start in Hueco things began to turn around. In the end I was able to get relatively close to my goal- having sent 45 different boulder problems in 10 days with at least three in every grade up to V7. Due to some complications with our East Spur tour, I was unable to try any of the V8s I had hoped to bag before my time in Hueco was up (Better Eat Your Wheaties and Mr. Serious). On the flip side, I was able to send the only V8 I attempted during my stay.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21135818?portrait=0" width="400"></iframe></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">[ Favorite problems from my visit (some of which are featured in the video above) include Seka's Specialty (V2), Sign of the Cross (V3), Bloody Flapper (V4), Dragonfly (V5), See Spot Run (V6), Babyface (V7), and Ultramega (V8). All five star climbs in my book. ]</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I'm definitely glad that I spent the months of December and January honing my skills as a boulderer. While the gains in strength are a bit difficult to tack down, I'm certain that I successfully rewired my brain and reformed my approach to climbing. Retooling your brain is a difficult task, one that requires intention, awareness, patience, and discipline. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> Often times realistic gains in climbing performance come down to flipping the switches in your head, making clear decisions, and fully committing to those decisions.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">This notion was inspired during my stay in Ontario with my friend Bonnie. During a session at the Halfway Log Dump boulders, Bonnie pointed out that "trying hard" was a skill set that my climbing repertoire lacked. Now, I think most people would have been put off by a criticism of this nature. I mean, no one wants to be told that they aren't <i>trying</i> hard enough. Right? But, having great respect for my friend and a natural inclination to learn, I listened. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">And she was right.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Always wanting to be in control, I spent years shaping my style in order to make climbing an effortless endeavor. I've often said that the appeal of climbing lies within the ability to make the seemingly impossible seem effortless. In a sense, I trained myself to climb at my limit by putting in just the right amount of effort- no more, no less. While I still think this is an important approach, it's only one side of the coin. Having the ability to flip the switch and to put the kung-fu grip down is a viable strategy- one that I had lost sight of during the last two years.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugiaPJjicJ4ms_dMmFmrI1lOCrPlwyfRWGNr7I7A2HZC8C84sfmQ9nmwHJ1ljoOIo0xoQRz3GvlYt03wwoHV0iSaHUM0dJRkcbWqv0XULh-9OFhEicr1hgdPyLt-DqS5WqlWFvb_hRTf0/s1600/soill.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugiaPJjicJ4ms_dMmFmrI1lOCrPlwyfRWGNr7I7A2HZC8C84sfmQ9nmwHJ1ljoOIo0xoQRz3GvlYt03wwoHV0iSaHUM0dJRkcbWqv0XULh-9OFhEicr1hgdPyLt-DqS5WqlWFvb_hRTf0/s400/soill.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I'm looking forward to applying what I've learned on the boulders this winter to the vertical world. The weather is shifting, and luckily the transition into fitness climbing is much easier for me being that fitness is my only natural strong suit.</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> That being the case, I figured I could get away from fitness training until the last possible minute.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">So, after a considerable break from sport climbing, I'm back at it. Any and all days that I've had off work have been spent in Southern Illinois. More recently I was lucky enough to score four consecutive days off work and headed to Eastern Kentucky. (Hence the delay in updating the blog.) On the whole it was a good visit; one in which I was able to repeat old favorites and onsight/redpoint some routes I had previously overlooked.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">In addition to putting in vertical mileage, I was able to kick it with my friends from Toronto- a fantastic surprise! But now it's back to the grind. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">The weather's completely switched gears and the rain's moving in. All signs point to keeping to the city. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">The next few days will be spent at the store, the gym, and the yoga studio. But I'm not sweating it.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2gd2Ga_CYHOac-L7gq-A5j5H4jucvRZuJeCw85DUhn_dZsO0m0oBHCB1Ngv_zEUFeyNa8F0t1P5JsYYYR3Smdy7llWMHDf59yCZySVOB-OsuuovX_gTrw3QPHWBaaKjIjpiao2pbCGmq/s400/6821_1238897375710_1327547187_30697325_4684859_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">John Oungst, The Glitch 5.12c (February 2009)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"> 10 days to Vegas. </span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-69961096233435820252011-03-09T18:57:00.000-08:002011-03-09T18:57:12.457-08:00on hueco<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I spent my formative climbing years watching videos, flipping through magazines, and dreaming about visiting Hueco Tanks. The nature of the climbing was by and large unknown to me, but what little I could glean from videos like <i>The Road</i> and <i>Sessions </i>was compelling enough. I was sold. I <b>wanted</b> to go to Hueco.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">The reality, however, was that during the early stages of my personal development as a climber I lacked both the resources and the knowledge to make such a visit possible. And so, the thought of climbing in Hueco remained just that- a thought. Over time that thought slipped my mind entirely, and I spent subsequent years maniacally devoted to growing my skill sets as a sport climber. I had completely forgotten about Hueco.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEithNrzuI8plXLUDqpxQqH0lcuSNSgtWBcAGaXysuuU8fhpdULSTRBwo2MtA6ymFSL-WMuaKoyIkv7o3yURpeHF2xTQSEugw0Vrw5YrZEXy5-I1gW2GXyl7z_5PLKbtNCFocQBErXwXGnXU/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEithNrzuI8plXLUDqpxQqH0lcuSNSgtWBcAGaXysuuU8fhpdULSTRBwo2MtA6ymFSL-WMuaKoyIkv7o3yURpeHF2xTQSEugw0Vrw5YrZEXy5-I1gW2GXyl7z_5PLKbtNCFocQBErXwXGnXU/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">That is until I returned from The Red River Gorge this past November. While I was busy skitzing out about projects in the Gorge, several friends of mine had been putting a trip to West Texas together. Even though I had spent 2010 exclusively sport climbing I knew better than to let a great opportunity pass me by. It is, after all, much easier to explore a new venue with a motivated crew than it is to go solo. So, as my friend Jaime had advised me to do, I pulled the trigger and booked a flight to El Paso.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufp6LE5-XILwVDaf2AQsRe4SjV4GAMKTkDFyXG1Axpy8dYPQvbRpTsLu-22_H6MreAr4iB6NlV-zAViIfKVivzp5B-tVqPG1V-FPnX99oFP1INkOtnjHmlJNKznZCWu3TWbLlxtP47L4b/s1600/250-Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufp6LE5-XILwVDaf2AQsRe4SjV4GAMKTkDFyXG1Axpy8dYPQvbRpTsLu-22_H6MreAr4iB6NlV-zAViIfKVivzp5B-tVqPG1V-FPnX99oFP1INkOtnjHmlJNKznZCWu3TWbLlxtP47L4b/s400/250-Cover.jpg" width="303" /></a></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">On paper, Hueco appears to be a logistical nightmare. Restrictions on park access, strict park hours, and mandatory reservations all seem like too many hoops to jump through just to go rock climbing. An article in the August 2006 issue of Climbing Magazine titled "Seven Reasons Why Joe's Valley is Better Than Hueco" even used these access restrictions in the thrust of its argument. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">But the reality is that the climbing restrictions in Hueco are mild at best, and incredibly easy to comply with. There wasn't a single day during those two weeks where we were denied access. The park allows 10 visitors without reservations to walk in every day, and guided tours are available with a 24 hour notice. This certainly makes having an agenda difficult, but you're guaranteed to find world class climbing in every zone, on every mountain. It's <i>really</i> hard to be disappointed.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOwsqIyUmcQWBtFlgMeB9LfjntgtXUVtu_hkTm1UPso8b20__FIqdSl8tpNm2csUlr2o1aAZu_pO-4Y4PikBRQzEB1-Z3KXWCQaSdG9V2baB3dqRzBeWXgmw4E-xPwxcDWkH9dGyHQJvG/s1600/photo2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOwsqIyUmcQWBtFlgMeB9LfjntgtXUVtu_hkTm1UPso8b20__FIqdSl8tpNm2csUlr2o1aAZu_pO-4Y4PikBRQzEB1-Z3KXWCQaSdG9V2baB3dqRzBeWXgmw4E-xPwxcDWkH9dGyHQJvG/s400/photo2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Doug Munsch, Try Harder (V9)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Restrictions aside, what I can say for sure is that Hueco houses <i><b>the</b></i> best climbing I've encountered West of the Mississippi. (That's right, I still think the best climbing is in the South East. What of it?) The boulders are big, the holds are sculpted, and the concentration is high. I have never climbed on such perfect features before. Good moves. Good height. Good scene.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">After spending two weeks in Texas it became clear to me </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">how heavily this sector has influenced what I consider to be <i>modern</i> bouldering. On the whole, the problems that make Hueco a stand out sector are the ones that feature incredibly powerful moves on relatively in-cut holds in remarkably steep terrain. More often than not the climbing is gymnastic, committing, and not for those who lack mental tenacity. This style has been adapted to the indoor climbing arena in a big way, and has become a staple in every route setter's catalog of movement- whether they are aware of it or not (myself included).</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">In a lot of ways, the style in Hueco is very much what I have been looking for in my climbing experience- difficult, long pulls between in-cut crimps. It's hard to find that in Southern Illinois, and I certainly haven't seen such climbing elsewhere in my tour of the States. The Red River Gorge is the only place that comes to mind, but the sandstone in the Gorge is far more forgiving than the volcanic granite found in Hueco. I've never bruised my finger tips before! Yikes!</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbf1Ou83ymhijoyepd8YwjEzlydLdhyphenhyphentg7AcxYlOtA73_fMdKM3ITjfZX5vCxGZSnPngyhNKaa2GxX-P_mRS0UTXjhAt3rq11BvElJfmDhKuQErCujeQfcbD_vL6IqDBwIzlEwzNR1Ahs/s1600/photo3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbf1Ou83ymhijoyepd8YwjEzlydLdhyphenhyphentg7AcxYlOtA73_fMdKM3ITjfZX5vCxGZSnPngyhNKaa2GxX-P_mRS0UTXjhAt3rq11BvElJfmDhKuQErCujeQfcbD_vL6IqDBwIzlEwzNR1Ahs/s400/photo3.JPG" width="400" /> </a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Our first day in the park was an interesting experience to say the least. Admittedly, I was quite anxious. I wanted to get a good sense of the climbing ASAP and I wanted to come out of the gates HARD. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">What initially put me off were the serious mob scenes that developed at many of the boulders. While I understand and respect every individual's right/privilege to climb in an area like Hueco, I personally don't perform well in front of a crowd (a personal problem I am now in the process of addressing). The bottom line is that I couldn't keep my shit together on my first day out, and while I saw quite a bit of North Mountain I was disappointed that I let my nerves get the best of me. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Case in point: I managed to punt off the top of Mexican Chicken (V6)- the proper start to 100 Proof Roof (V3) that adds five moves into its crux. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">That's right. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I botched the top of Hueco's easiest V3. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Rookie move.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">But by mid-day I started getting a handle of my anxiety, and I was </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">able to put Daily Dick Dose (V7) on the board. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> After a strange first day in the park I managed to level out. From then on out it was on. </span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-38569874673574132662011-03-03T21:02:00.000-08:002011-03-03T21:02:23.126-08:00on the whole<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Astute and avid readers may have noticed that while I had promised to post during my two week stay in Hueco Tanks State Park, I in fact did no such thing. Although, astute and avid readers probably know by now that such empty promises are a staple of the blog.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">This preface is not so much an apology as it is a statement of acceptance. While I had both the resources and the time to post about daily happenings, lessons learned, and general thoughts regarding my stay in West Texas, I chose to neglect the blog simply because <i><b>Hueco was off the fucking chain.</b></i></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZT8QCPIcECYLwzRYFTnSgzQ-9eHLkKn0T3NFIGJdjfTjkYCwhi2CRjl2sMdIVgzC2Rz1_59c0uCRnIFIkGbDwf0-FoVZbYz7DdPgclokA2PfEUZbgtPCONEfnTg_iPL32uw9g0J688WD/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZT8QCPIcECYLwzRYFTnSgzQ-9eHLkKn0T3NFIGJdjfTjkYCwhi2CRjl2sMdIVgzC2Rz1_59c0uCRnIFIkGbDwf0-FoVZbYz7DdPgclokA2PfEUZbgtPCONEfnTg_iPL32uw9g0J688WD/s400/photo.JPG" style="background-color: black;" width="400" /></span></a></div></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Rather than farming my brain for an insightful and potentially useful summary, I've decided instead to break up my experience in a series of shorter posts which (if my schedule allows me to do so) will be posted over the course of the next week (or two). Hopefully by that time my friend Vishal and potentially myself will have edited the compiled footage from the trip. Look out!</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">With that said, I arrived back in Saint Louis two nights ago. I spent my first day back in the city getting my life in order. Being in the desert for two weeks was disorienting to say the least. After working a short but enjoyable shift at the store, </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">enduring an evening of running errands, </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">and generally hating the time suck that follows such activities, I jumped in the car and headed to Southern Illinois.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I lucked out and managed to come back to the Midwest just in time to enjoy a sunny 60 degree day at Jackson Falls. It being a Thursday I was unable to secure a partner for the day, but despite such a small detail I set out anyway. I spent the first half of my day rope soloing all of the routes in The Gallery- all varying in difficulty from 5.10a to 5.10c. The second half of the the day I was able to climb with my friends Chris and Lauren who were also eager to take advantage of the agreeable weather. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzZzs-43y-CTFcyDfLLd-4O_Ai0hJIImOawov716OCjO8y-klfE1KiN0voTBoaqY9GWXG_MszXvxKPvtPTB07rDjCty2dBgoD9Ll7Zd_0hSTyYNnw3GOgRYFvHybEu3qbSbszRBDu7xIJ/s1600/165044_165195733524788_100001030862649_345826_5679472_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzZzs-43y-CTFcyDfLLd-4O_Ai0hJIImOawov716OCjO8y-klfE1KiN0voTBoaqY9GWXG_MszXvxKPvtPTB07rDjCty2dBgoD9Ll7Zd_0hSTyYNnw3GOgRYFvHybEu3qbSbszRBDu7xIJ/s400/165044_165195733524788_100001030862649_345826_5679472_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Wrecking Ball, 5.12c (Fall 2010)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 85%;"> After finishing up at The Gallery we made our way over to Lovely Tower where I enjoyed three world class routes: Fine Nine (5.9/10a), Lovely Arete (5.11a), and Hidden Treasure (5.12a). It was good for morale to have my first sport climbing session go so well. When all was said and done I had climbed 14 pitches, and I had successfully managed to fight the pump! It was nice spending the day solo in my favorite sport climbing area, recalibrating my brain, and getting back in my zone.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The month of March has me working quite a bit, but my hope is to have more days running vertical mileage in Illinois. Having not sport climbed since November, I want to bring my fitness level up to a respectable level before I hit Vegas in April. While I have no particular goals, I certainly don't want to spend a week in the desert punting because I can't hold on.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Chances are good that I'll be able to supplement my visits to So Ill with a short stay at The Red. The only way to get fit is to get out. Period.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">It's not too late to get psyched, get fit, and get going on that Spring 2011 to-do list!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Boom! </span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-61418742842945863382011-02-19T11:48:00.000-08:002011-02-19T11:48:40.258-08:00estimated time of arrival<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhKVTAlU-kIie5hHUKz-gE4AzgzIZAHs9i9gMkGInwO-wquiZcUd_g33lbu5TI00ywLNq0rO0vChBAtpYUk_zeBfM3bk_v0AkRMUEhgLjY5tc-UzfsMv0kCBrNvg1gL-aMtqolJJbuZz1/s1600/photo%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdhKVTAlU-kIie5hHUKz-gE4AzgzIZAHs9i9gMkGInwO-wquiZcUd_g33lbu5TI00ywLNq0rO0vChBAtpYUk_zeBfM3bk_v0AkRMUEhgLjY5tc-UzfsMv0kCBrNvg1gL-aMtqolJJbuZz1/s400/photo%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">The days leading up to my visit to West Texas have been hectic to say the least. With the winter weather on it's way out, I only had a few days left to tie up loose ends in Southern Illinois. Recently I've been finding that time itself is a commodity, but with a little bit of planning, hard work, and enough motivation things can still get done.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Case in point- last Friday I drove down to Illinois and was successfully able to send Titlest (V8/9). I was on a mission for sure- I had only budgeted enough time to drive there, warm up, try the problem a hand full of times, and drive back in order to make it back to work on time.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Sp8yjAG7DhiBr1IUZWwaKRT7nqSrWEqEuakTFAYuq9NkzOnmwRkkKfA2mx68WKnsjHFw3kHiEIldVswBsz9ojDXFqs8TV4eNe-ntpO4xZ9nywpXMX-bed7vYI_FoY-3PComw4CiDNojr/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Sp8yjAG7DhiBr1IUZWwaKRT7nqSrWEqEuakTFAYuq9NkzOnmwRkkKfA2mx68WKnsjHFw3kHiEIldVswBsz9ojDXFqs8TV4eNe-ntpO4xZ9nywpXMX-bed7vYI_FoY-3PComw4CiDNojr/s400/photo.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">It was nice to put Titlest down before leaving for Hueco. Not only was it a great litmus test for the past few months of training, it was also a definite morale booster. I feel fairly confident that I've made remarkable improvements both in terms of strength and power (the difference of course being that power is the amount of strength one is able to output over time). It was also nice to put down a route that was considered to be one of the first hard lines in the area. I've looked at it for years and was drawn to it's savage simplicity. It's the perfect problem- one that demands power and unforgiving accuracy for someone with my proportions (read: height). Not only is the line difficult, it's stunning as well. Very proud to have done it this year. Watch out for the video when I get back!</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The following Sunday I made it down to The Beach with a few friends where I was able to flash Sex on the Beach (V5) and grab quick sends of King of Smears (V4+) and an unknown problem on the back side of the main Beach boulder (V5/6). In addition to a tour of the classics, I made great head way on another problem on the same boulder that clocked in around V8/9. While I was unable to seal the deal, I'm fairly confident that when I return I'll be able to summit quickly.</span><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFiPdypHJjb8GYri1VGF9PPKo4pUf4sdM1HBIEEIzB9qMYL8dyR7uShj6H8qwNsEGnxH85lQ2r-lurVV3fqXtbCd9sX3zezWV9D-D5ASsYqiz3xUy-oZanfOt9_Oj3MNbuRvpNquJjEN_/s1600/photo%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFiPdypHJjb8GYri1VGF9PPKo4pUf4sdM1HBIEEIzB9qMYL8dyR7uShj6H8qwNsEGnxH85lQ2r-lurVV3fqXtbCd9sX3zezWV9D-D5ASsYqiz3xUy-oZanfOt9_Oj3MNbuRvpNquJjEN_/s400/photo%25283%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian Anderson, King of Smears (V4)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> But that's yesterday's news and right now I'm on my way to El Paso for two weeks. I'm not sure what to expect, but I'm eager to test my sensibilities and push myself physically. The line between having goals and having expectations is thin. It's difficult to say what I want, but at a very basic level I want to climb well- calculated, composed, and intuitively. I'm not sure what to expect, but I'll keep interested readers abreast of the situation once the opportunity arises. </span><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl0rZ1R-qT3uGd7F8D9mXl7_EYklN45biCmjvVDOS5BKtoa46Nlbd1QQxk5o1UBjoweBhBJX-MfC7-UFhYF-HXOKZhzU_82mE1AD6HeIUIkBB2EgRHPUph-cLgFJ1mhjTHpYHA8Y9K2DA/s1600/photo%25284%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl0rZ1R-qT3uGd7F8D9mXl7_EYklN45biCmjvVDOS5BKtoa46Nlbd1QQxk5o1UBjoweBhBJX-MfC7-UFhYF-HXOKZhzU_82mE1AD6HeIUIkBB2EgRHPUph-cLgFJ1mhjTHpYHA8Y9K2DA/s400/photo%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-78520743936402283672011-02-08T10:17:00.000-08:002011-02-08T12:39:08.540-08:00looking forward to going back<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Things have picked up on my end since I posted last. I've been running myself into the ground in an attempt to shore up enough cash to fund prospective travel for the upcoming Spring season. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">It's been a paper chase since the year started, and w</span><span style="font-size: 85%;">hat little free time I have has been spent </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">climbing in Southern Illinois and </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">rehabbing some newly acquired injuries.</span><br />
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</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_89VvU8hsuYzUzFIEjGd8OSQFD1Mq8JkBZJCr-B4j4BcyyJ1DM_feLhn_yMc1iS_HfRrZjyULEH99nTIEGvI3cCRZZdEAUUbFViOUxYScAg5oeVAeNID2fvqPvBkQ9wqoyH3hZiJgplB/s1600/soill3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_89VvU8hsuYzUzFIEjGd8OSQFD1Mq8JkBZJCr-B4j4BcyyJ1DM_feLhn_yMc1iS_HfRrZjyULEH99nTIEGvI3cCRZZdEAUUbFViOUxYScAg5oeVAeNID2fvqPvBkQ9wqoyH3hZiJgplB/s400/soill3.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Dane Iwata</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: 85%;">A few weeks ago I managed to strain some of the musculature in my shoulder. Being no stranger to injury, I spent two weeks icing, utilizing hot/cold therapy, and abstaining from climbing (for the most part). Despite a relatively promising recovery, I decided to see my friend Dr. Anthony Miller in order to get the 411. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">In the past, Dr. Miller has treated me for both medial epiconylitis in my left elbow and popliteus tendinitis in my left knee. Fully knowing how bad those particular injuries became over time, I decided to get an early start on the road to recovery. Also, h</span><span style="font-size: 85%;">aving just gained some momentum in my climbing, I didn't want to jeopardize my progress by incorrectly addressing my injury.</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: 85%;">From what I understand, and I encourage any readers who are more knowledgeable regarding this subject to correct me, my injury was the result of another weak link in the chain. When the muscles in my shoulders and back are engaged, my scapula lifts off of my back. This in turn changes the way in which related muscle groups are articulated when being used. The result of this shift is an increased strain on certain muscles as they are not meant to be stressed in such an abnormal fashion.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">It was made clear to me by Dr. Miller that my prognosis was very good, and that the proactive measures I took early on made certain that I would be back in the vertical world relatively soon. It's been two weeks since I started a proper rehab routine (a combination of electro-stimulation, manipulations/massage, body weight exercises, and a comprehensive <a href="http://climbinginjuries.com/page/exercises">theraband workout</a>), and things are going quite well. Although I have noticed that climbing in general doesn't seem to aggravate my shoulder, but oddly enough most activities at work (stocking, bagging, etc) do. Oh well. Gotta get paid.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7fvvqZ6k02-0AeHuV830EP5dJTe-nlzYWdE7Tl0IhSlsuugOuj9lC3fBCKyZBlSIVExBNucL2ZERabPSxREN8CfnYYTUNoIt6EofJcuH7l6KJ05i2u3ISoAY4hPsNiw9KFh1YugLR0s_/s1600/las-vegas-trips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7fvvqZ6k02-0AeHuV830EP5dJTe-nlzYWdE7Tl0IhSlsuugOuj9lC3fBCKyZBlSIVExBNucL2ZERabPSxREN8CfnYYTUNoIt6EofJcuH7l6KJ05i2u3ISoAY4hPsNiw9KFh1YugLR0s_/s320/las-vegas-trips.jpg" style="background-color: #999999;" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">In other news, I just finalized plans to hit Las Vegas during the first week in April. My friend Natalie and I have been kicking around the idea for some time now, but we were finally able to pin down specifics last week. 8 days in Sin City? Yes sir. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">I haven't climbed on a rope since I finished my Fall season in Kentucky, and I haven't been to Vegas in years. In a lot of ways Red Rock Canyon was the first place where I felt compelled to improve my climbing. It was the first proper sport climbing trip I had ever been on, and it definitely helped shape my passion for the sport. I'm looking forward to going back, running up vertical mileage, and relaxing in fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="335" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19449744?portrait=0" width="450"></iframe></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Finally, last week my friend David and I made our way back to the Roost. The snow storm that was projected to devastate our region had, for the most part, missed Southern Illinois. Fantastic. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">We found three new problems, two of which are featured in the video above. While I was unable to do the long, dead-point crux move on Danger Mouse (V7), I was able to get the FA of the lesser line which climbs in from the left (Of Mice and Men, V5). Both problems are a little breezy, 20+ feet? Get some.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Part Time Ninja (V8) was definitely the plum line- body tension, big move crimp climbing, and an exciting finish. Having spent most of my day trying Titlest (V8) at the Falls proper, I was too spent to stick the crux on point. Can't wait to go back and put both down.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Until then, it's just a run down the clock scenario.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Hueco: 8 Days</span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-24271776164764632162011-01-19T22:48:00.000-08:002011-01-19T22:57:41.830-08:00deep freeze<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">After some experimenting, it's become clear to me that I should actively pursue Yoga in some capacity. In the last three weeks I've learned that I actually possess very little self-awareness and that my personal definition of flexibility is laughable. As a dedicated climber with a particularly reigned in approach, I thought I was capable of controlling my body fairly well. Clearly that's not the case, and even during simple poses I find myself wondering how it is that the geriatric next to me is able to stay so unflinchingly composed without sporting the most brutal try hard face.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">In a sense, my definitions of what it is to be aware, flexible, and present are being challenged. This new trajectory is refreshing- it's an opportunity to learn and to grow. I believe that those who excel in life do so because they are constantly redefining the parameters that shape their experience.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">With that in mind, I suppose it's good to take a step back and realize that while both disciplines (climbing and yoga) share some similarities, they are fundamentally different. Much like I wouldn't expect a novice climber to onsight moderate climbs in good fashion, I shouldn't expect myself to successfully and effortlessly execute every pose immediately. I suppose that's why it's called a "learning process" and not a "learning instant." At any rate, I'm looking forward to increasing my own self-awareness and to looking like less of an idiot in the process.</span><br />
<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">In addition to these recent discoveries, I was able to make it out this past Saturday for a session at the Roost in Southern Illinois. It was the first time in weeks that both my work schedule and the weather cooperated. 45 degrees and sunny? In January? Whaaaaat! </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="youtube-player" frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hry5Mthxfw4?rel=0" title="YouTube video player" type="text/html" width="400"></iframe></div></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Throwback</span></span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Needless to say, I was glad to get out of the gym and back to the real world. After a visual tour of the surrounding boulders, we made our way down to Screaming Eagle (V6) and Beaver Eater Deluxe (V7). A botched flash attempt gave way to a second go send of Screaming Eagle. Not the most aesthetic boulder, but great moves and good height!</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">While I was unable to do Beaver Eater Deluxe, my friend David was able to link Screaming Eagle into Beaver Eater Deluxe- which was dubbed, for the time being, Screaming Beaver Eater Deluxe (FA, V9). Definitely a good show. Hopefully we'll post the video soon?</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">From there we made our way over to Illinois' Biggest Sloper (V7)- easily THE best boulder problem in the state. It's amazing that such an incredible feature could be formed naturally. The problem tackles an improbably large and featureless sloper. A long lock off from the sloper to a left handed side pull gives way to a precarious finish on a perplexing prow. Upon examination it was clear that at a certain point the beta would simply be to not fall. We had a good laugh about that, and then, in rookie fashion, I managed to fall on the exact part of the problem we had discussed only moments before.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Despite nearly killing myself on my second try (thanks for saving my life David!), I was able to reach the summit on my next attempt. Definitely the most satisfying problem I have ever done- period.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The day finished with a flash of The Oriole (V5) and a near send of Chuck Norris (V9)- too bad "nearly sent" is a chump way of saying "didn't send." Can't wait to go back fresh! An improbable looking line just to the left of Chuck Norris was also discovered, so there's some unfinished business back at the Roost. </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Unfortunately, Old Man Winter is starting to make his rounds. We're projected to receive six to eight inches of snow, so we'll see if anything stays dry- fingers crossed.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">You know you're getting older when you see snow falling and instead of getting excited about building snowmen and going sledding, you think about all the pain in the ass things you have to do to deal with it. Yikes. See you in the deep freeze.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Hueco: 28 Days </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-88343012948723353782011-01-11T11:27:00.000-08:002011-01-11T11:46:54.277-08:00hoop dreams<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">2011 kicked off in good fashion with a maelstrom of inexplicable injuries and enduring ailments. Not the way I'd like to start things, but after coughing up blood and battling a trifecta of injuries (wrist, hand, & elbow) for two weeks, I'm back. I feel like spending two weeks on the couch may have set me back, but there's not much I can do about it. Realistically, a fourteen day loss is negligible, so I don't plan to up the ante in order to make up for lost time. You can't make up for lost time, so why bother worrying about it? Right? Other than that, with the holidays having drawn to a close, I feel relieved. I'm glad to be as far away from them as possible. Maybe next year I'll be more prepared to deal.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Complications aside</span><span style="font-size: 85%;">, my campaign for personal growth has been advancing steadily. Since the beginning of the year, I have successfully resurrected my savings account, begun my search for a yoga studio that suits my needs, and finally addressed my move back to the city. I'm still finding it difficult to introduce certain exercises into my schedule (reading, writing, and work-shopping ideas), but I'm doing my best. I'm beginning to realize that finding and managing a balanced life is an incredibly difficult thing to do. I certainly envy those who do it well!</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">In other news: come February, I'm out of here. I've booked my flight and I'm heading to Hueco for two weeks. Naturally, having never been, I'm excited. I'm not a boulderer by trade, but since I returned to Saint Louis I've been doing my best to flip some switches and get my head in the game. I'm also not delusional, so I haven't outlined any particular goals for the trip. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Yet. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Truth be told, I'm just glad I have the opportunity to split for a while and check out a new scene. Winter weather, a challenging schedule, and the typical struggles associated with pulling on plastic have made climbing stale. Definitely ready to bolt.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Countdown: 38 days</span></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18099914?portrait=0" width="400"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="225" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18179564?portrait=0" width="400"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-79188992440455020602010-12-31T00:00:00.000-08:002010-12-30T23:56:37.119-08:00december thirty-first twenty ten<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">A few days ago, on my way home from work, I tuned my radio to NPR in order to catch the tail end of <i>From The Top</i>, a program that showcases a different set of young, brilliant musicians each week. I've always taken great interest in the show, but this particular <a href="http://www.fromthetop.org/radio/lastweek">episode</a> was exceptionally remarkable.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The program featured 10-year old trumpet player Natalie Dungey from Issaquah, WA. What I found more striking than her performance (the gravity of which I cannot convey) was her incredibly guided resolve to excel in her craft. To hear such a young person speak with such conviction is as refreshing as it is rare.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">To hear people my age speak with such conviction is rare.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">When asked how her age has influenced her sensibilities as a musician, she responded by saying, "It doesn't matter how old you are, it matters how hard you work." I think that's something to think about as we round the bend into twenty-eleven.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzydikr9MccovWd12FjbvMgWUWEQsbngHo8XNCwMnER0gu2vQFmMmOSuYqvtq001ajLwx-sQgNl-5OfbM-T4P6C2bT_94HqANPwxLY3_0P567qgggZ_Vh0XGK-LqjVrppaflsP_vt1n_lB/s400/soill7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Dane Iwata</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">So, that in mind, let's switch gears. As people often do during the days leading up to the New Year, we find ourselves finalizing plans with friends, pinning down improbable resolutions for the year to come, and reflecting on the year that has passed. I personally hate year-end reviews and new year's resolutions, so I won't subject anyone to a recap of the last 365 days of my life <i>or </i>my outlook for the next 365.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">For most, the New Year seems to be the most logical place to make a clean break. A blank canvas is home to endless potential and incredible opportunities. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">And that sounds good, right? </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">But the reality is that in life there is no so such thing as a clean break. The calendar year is a human invention after all; it's a tangible way to record and measure time. But time passes regardless of how we decide to measure it, so why wait for the New Year to elicit personal change? </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">To be clear, I'm not asserting that having the resolve to affect change in one's life is a bad thing; I'm simply suggesting that we re-evaluate our motivations for seeking such a change. These campaigns for personal growth should be made because we truly want what's best for us, and not because we feel obligated to "commit" to a New Year's resolution that will most probably be abandoned by the next commercially driven holiday (Valentine's Day).</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">So when you find yourself penning your resolutions on paper (as if that would some how solidify the contract you've drawn up in your head), or when you find yourself sifting through your back log of excuses in order to get away from those very same resolutions, keep Natalie in mind. Work hard because you truly want something. And if you truly want something, take the reigns.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">See you in 2011.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/8dGWLWb0Og0?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/8dGWLWb0Og0?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-45663641668053033292010-12-17T21:56:00.000-08:002010-12-30T22:26:31.724-08:00let's take slow steps<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Since my last post, I've been doing my best to switch gears. After several months of living the renegade lifestyle, it's time to buckle down. I was able to find work part-time, but my search for an internship has yet to yield a favorable result. I've also made my peace with climbing in the gym, and I've starting pulling plastic on the regular. In addition to getting paid and stacking paper, I've been spending a fair amount of time in the library. It's become a kind of sanctuary- a place to get some personal work done without the usual distractions. It may not be the most exciting series of developments, but I feel fortunate to have some normalcy in my life after enduring a year plagued by misfortune and uncertainty.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The recent cold snap and unexpected snow fall have all but guaranteed that climbing in Southern Illinois will not be an option for quite a while. So that's the new struggle- finding ways to stay motivated and building momentum for the following year. Warmer weather is still months away, and that's a tough pill to swallow. </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Until then, I've started the process of drafting my goals for 2011. This time around my goals aren't as concrete as they have been in the past. Rather than setting goals based on a numerical progression, I've decided that it would be best for me to round out my skill sets as a climber by exploring new destinations and new disciplines. Such a move may force me to scale back expectations, but I'm willing to check my ego for the sake of personal growth. That being said, I'm hoping to make a push for Rumney, New Hampshire and The New River Gorge in West Virginia this Spring. From what I've been told, both areas seem to have incredibly specific styles that rely on power and a technical prowess; I look forward to the challenge</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">My secondary goal is to make my way west for the summer. I would like to put some hours in Rifle, Colorado and Ten Sleep, Wyoming. I've heard amazing things about Ten Sleep, but I haven't ventured to Wyoming since February of this year. With the right running crew, I'd like to see that change.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">In addition to switching up the yearly circuit, I've decided to finally pull the trigger and address my major weak link as a climber: strength. I'm still very much aware of my chronic battle with elbow tendonitis (one that kept me out of the game from Fall 2008 to Fall 2009), but I'm growing tired of allowing it to stunt my progression despite diligent and calculated efforts to keep it at bay. I've spent the last few weeks in the gym building a base (read: bouldering) in an attempt to prepare for my training schedule for the first quarter of the year. I've set aside two months within my plan to allow my body to acclimate to these new stress levels. Once I've adapted, my hope is that I will be able to increase volume and intensity with the overall goal being to begin sport specific training by mid-January. </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Staying motivated under the circumstances is difficult, but I think setting goals and supplementing your personal climbing experience with specific literature, videos, events, etc. are key to surviving the winter. Luckily, we've been fortunate enough to have several recent releases to keep us pulling plastic and suffering in the gym until the weather breaks. 2011 is around the corner- what are you doing to keep good vibes on high?</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="274" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17863785?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="449"></iframe></span></div><br />
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</div><a href="http://www.iclimb.com/" id="iclimb_player">www.iclimb.com</a><script src="http://www.iclimb.com/external/embed.external.php?pid=32&w=449&h=274" type="text/javascript">
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<div style="text-align: center;"></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-26447451062643216722010-11-29T12:44:00.000-08:002010-11-30T00:45:44.653-08:00the wrap up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">With the season drawing to a close, opportunities to climb are few and far between. Other than a few visits to Jackson Falls, I've been doing most of my climbing in the gym. No complaints here though- I needed a break, and the colder weather has proven itself to be an effective deterrent. I'm hoping to take this time to address a few concerns I've had regarding my well being, my future, and the role that climbing plays in my life. I've been questioning my dimensionality as a human being recently, and I think I’d like to see things change. While my pursuit of self improvement hasn't been mapped out, I'm hoping that as I begin to tackle each issue individually, solutions to my other concerns will begin to transpire. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi62knAIr6kyFvxL8RWSM6i-2qHPsY_PF6rzrixTFb3FOn7JpPZziB9tdsDMRg9GL38K3zYdrAs-DE-T3a1gRa3eUwSeO8PRo8ojIHoSEAd4llo9Y55gEwIT6IKdGNRI4jhq73ki1PMWmCy/s1600/IMG_4593.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi62knAIr6kyFvxL8RWSM6i-2qHPsY_PF6rzrixTFb3FOn7JpPZziB9tdsDMRg9GL38K3zYdrAs-DE-T3a1gRa3eUwSeO8PRo8ojIHoSEAd4llo9Y55gEwIT6IKdGNRI4jhq73ki1PMWmCy/s320/IMG_4593.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The transition between climbing full time and settling in at home has been challenging, but not for any of the reasons that may seem obvious. The problems that have been patiently waiting for me since I left earlier this year are beginning to recapture my attention. With no strong convictions to return to the university and no long-term vocational prospects, I find myself with a great deal of free time. As a result, my mind wanders and I've become reacquainted with some old demons. I'm not really sure how to handle this new development- sometimes I feel optimistic about finding a new path, but mostly I just worry. In a lot of ways I still feel much like I did back in March, but at least this time around I'm able to keep the crippling depression and loneliness at bay. Perhaps not the healthiest way to deal, but it's difficult to talk about the same problems with the same people. No one wants to hear a broken record, myself included. So I'm doing my best, even though it may not appear that way on the surface.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQGPvMcDs98_LTidBcdwUtIqtxuZHNStTIrz3Y9psTo18wRY9m1auPVGiweULnQdjIuzyhcig6py9_8swjtZ9wZU7-IDcpkXDsxrzNbrYg03702SlxbmK7M_7-izxjwemUqSbaEd8uj4c/s1600/DSC04283.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQGPvMcDs98_LTidBcdwUtIqtxuZHNStTIrz3Y9psTo18wRY9m1auPVGiweULnQdjIuzyhcig6py9_8swjtZ9wZU7-IDcpkXDsxrzNbrYg03702SlxbmK7M_7-izxjwemUqSbaEd8uj4c/s400/DSC04283.JPG" width="300" /></a><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I don't really feel sorry for myself, as much as I just feel disappointed- discouraged even. Things had been going so well for so long; was I naive to think that things would continue that way? I don’t know- at least I’m able to stand on two feet again. It's difficult to deal with so many intangible crises at once, so I suppose all I can do is reevaluate my circumstances and hope that things will eventually turn around. Oddly enough, I've done my best to remove the word "hope" from my vocabulary until now. It's not that I consider "hope" to be a four letter word, nor do I scoff at its usage, but I've often thought that hope alone does little to effect change. More often than not, a strong <i>will </i>is what influences the various shifts that occur in our lives.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmr6k4hKxxP4fM1IRe4RUtO_aSulcJUbPFtmZd5u9F3GGIjcysShGgK5cXXKBzbmObqsRcExVzhxokeQdm6aT5HFumXUToV5vicV0FmdXpe0FO2ih47PO9x9FE6OmI5KfQ8_xO6bxRfhm/s1600/DSC04106_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmr6k4hKxxP4fM1IRe4RUtO_aSulcJUbPFtmZd5u9F3GGIjcysShGgK5cXXKBzbmObqsRcExVzhxokeQdm6aT5HFumXUToV5vicV0FmdXpe0FO2ih47PO9x9FE6OmI5KfQ8_xO6bxRfhm/s400/DSC04106_2.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I suppose that's part of what draws me to climbing. I've been able to carve the path my climbing career has taken by working hard, applying myself, and doing my best to control the variables that influence success. I’ve never <i>hoped </i>to become a better climber. I've never <i>hoped </i>to send my projects. It’s important to take responsibility- to <i>will</i> the desired outcome. This methodology seemed to work this season; it was the best I've had during my four year career. Unfortunately, I can't apply this approach to my current state of affairs. Hard work doesn't always pay off. So, faced with fewer answers and options than I expected to have at this point, I find myself dusting off the word, reintroducing it into my lexicon, and <i>hoping</i> for the best.<br />
<br />
While I continue my search for the missing puzzle pieces, I'll spend what time I have pursuing the advancement of my personal climbing career. There are plenty of disparities in my climbing repertoire, and I look forward to addressing them head on. I haven't properly trained in a gym since last winter, and I'm eager to see what a focused routine can do. Besides, exercise can do wonders for your self esteem- right?</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11VxaSenxUdfarMKi1_eopJ1OJnYAexewZtlGZJmGeHD9963KY3Dqzy4pKj4ijnZ3a9klQtmsJDTiEUTXHsHHiCzClwWpG5CXfCLsYcwx_jvLKqZAHpCRv5kFicCD90-6MLr4NuAyreLp/s1600/DSC04314.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11VxaSenxUdfarMKi1_eopJ1OJnYAexewZtlGZJmGeHD9963KY3Dqzy4pKj4ijnZ3a9klQtmsJDTiEUTXHsHHiCzClwWpG5CXfCLsYcwx_jvLKqZAHpCRv5kFicCD90-6MLr4NuAyreLp/s400/DSC04314.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">On an unrelated note: after spending three weeks in Kentucky this Fall, it occurred to me how incredibly lucky we are to have access to such an amazing destination. The sheer volume of five-star climbs at the Red is unparalleled, and the potential for further development is staggering. If you've spent any time in the<a href="http://www.rrgcc.org/"> Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve(PMRP)</a> or <a href="http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.com/index.php?page=6">Muir Valley</a>, please donate to those who make climbing in these amazing sectors possible. We've all paid for gym memberships without questioning the price, but how many of us have donated to keep our cliffs open? I think we're in danger of taking our access for granted. It's important to remember that we're not entitled to climb at places like the Red River Gorge. We simply have the good fortune of living in a world where motivated, passionate people are willing to invest their time and energy into acquiring/developing these amazing cliffs. So next time you're out at the crag or planning a trip, think about how much access is worth to you.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><a href="http://www.rrgcc.com/"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPOdwUwS-75u-A1A7tySCXVsZQzerDMye-BGC6vTuQyROcEb1di9KHa0YTMzQhE-4YSCpgN8_Fl5QukP56Sl0nPVyjEmx7RY_HgI1YPb90HMpOPMKW68VytDn7wnBPJD2at-tGRtqWLuG/s320/rrgcc.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Finally, I’ll admit I do a poor job of updating the blog. I’ve apologized numerous times, but have yet to deliver. Most of the time I just assume no one is reading, but perhaps my new circumstance will allow me to post more frequently. Not sure how that will influence the content, but why worry? We'll just see how it goes.<br />
<br />
Thanks for reading.<br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><u><b>The Wrap Up</b></u><br />
<i>Kaleidoscope (5.13c-)<br />
Elephant Man (5.13b)<br />
Flour Power (5.13b)<br />
Hoofmaker (5.13a)<br />
Mind Meld (5.12d, second go)<br />
Team Wilson (5.12d+, onsight)<br />
Harvest (5.12d, second go)<br />
Flux Capacitor (5.12d, second go)<br />
Tuna Town (5.12c, onsight)<br />
Hot For Teacher (5.12c, second go)<br />
Resurrection (5.12c+, onsight)<br />
The Sauce (5.12b, second go)<br />
The Low Easy One (5.12b, onsight)<br />
Rocket Dog (5.12b, onsight)<br />
Sluts Are Cool (5.12a, onsight)<br />
Morning Wood (5.12a, onsight)<br />
Evening Wood (5.12a, onsight)<br />
Kick Me In The Jimmie (5.12a, onsight)<br />
Burlier's Bane (5.12a, onsight)<br />
Ethics Police (5.11d, onsight)</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-14346166247875614372010-11-19T21:29:00.000-08:002010-11-19T21:41:04.964-08:00slow and low<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Last week I decided to end my season in the Red River Gorge by returning to an open ended project. Ever since I left the Gorge this Spring I've been looking forward to getting back on Kaleidoscope- a spectacular route that ascends the overhanging arête at the far end of Drive-By Crag. In addition to being visually stunning, the route climbs incredibly well. Punchy, committing, and no fluff- altogether a very sustained route with only one rest near the half-way mark.</span></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVy2w-JKsFNlxmfM6LUN7k7z_xYr-AMjC8R5oPvkcscM21jgR7yXy-Evp72xL7L0_yB0TLO7N0R0fyy9E9p3yzVYeQIaSJu6yaH93LngA_wGC3PWI0jy8rKSTiPdaa-4zmj34MALQl72s/s1600/guide2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVy2w-JKsFNlxmfM6LUN7k7z_xYr-AMjC8R5oPvkcscM21jgR7yXy-Evp72xL7L0_yB0TLO7N0R0fyy9E9p3yzVYeQIaSJu6yaH93LngA_wGC3PWI0jy8rKSTiPdaa-4zmj34MALQl72s/s400/guide2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">A predictable and an uninspired first attempt on Kaleidoscope gave way to a much more successful second go- one in which I was able to link through the crux on point. Needless to say, I was quite pleased with myself...until I realized that I had failed to pin down an effective exit strategy. When I tried the route earlier this year I was convinced that I would have no trouble reaching the chains after executing the route's crux (a long accuracy move to a hidden slot). It became abundantly clear, almost immediately, that I was terribly wrong. I found myself scrambling to stitch the last few moves together, but my desperate gambit proved unsuccessful. Regardless, I was happy with the day's progress and felt relatively confident that the route would go quickly.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">An impromptu rest day slowed things down a bit, but the following day I returned to Drive-By for another go. O</span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">n my preliminary attempt</span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I was able dial in a method for the upper section. I took a short break, tied back in, and pulled on for the red-point. I punched through the first half of the route and reached the route's only proper rest in good spirits. I took this opportunity to both collect myself, and to contemplate what to do about the last two bolts.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Due to the aggressive nature of the second half, people unwillingly clip the second to last bolt (a bit dodgy) in order to make skipping the last bolt safe. Being no stranger to skipping bolts, this wasn't much of a problem.</span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> In fact, on my previous attempt I was able to clip the second to last bolt with relative ease. This time, however, I made a decision on the fly to skip the last two bolts. I really didn't want to fumble with a difficult clip; I thought it could potentially jeopardize my red-point attempt. I'm not really sure how I arrived at that conclusion, but I did and I committed myself to the plan. So, having purged the pump, I fired through the route's crux and began to tackle the forearm melting run to the chains.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdEXtINGzWeM0NdMLWXHDDbMKnq1cSsu2TSn7Q4ZRVvKlCpGbmuaCcVGHlALwa6zKHPC5T_mvJfHuPLjP10DlTeJZlFY_djjR28KNeVnU1QM3rbgk7NlPia0_503Ug4abiyOs9g1ahU-S/s400/driveby.jpg" width="400" /></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51YmHmojn2mOQNohfhsn6C08Q76wHP-iTNkBH28bnudYh6Ypu-r3hQCAqHi-k9WQEfXSe5Jih0Vfyx4l77nBRiEGv93RCl-IWCzy80oxpsvJKXhZBeSBit-JHfsOE0wsFe3_O6Zl02yxq/s1600/link.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Photo by Jon LaValley</span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Unfortunately, after pulling through the opening moves of the red-point crux, I found myself handcuffed- one move away from the short sequence of positive holds that would lead me to the anchors. I wasn't pumped. I wasn't scared. I was simply incapable of moving. Not at all capable of generating motion of any kind. I couldn't move. At all.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was pinned between a slim chance of success and almost certain failure- 15 feet away from the last bolt I had clipped, and only a few feet from the chains. </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was all but guaranteed to take a spectacular ride. </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">As I shuffled my feet in order to make a move, I could see the rope swaying gently below me. This had never actually happened to me before.</span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I can't recall a single time where I was unable to execute on point after skipping bolts. Not so great for the game face. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">And so, as you might have expected, I eventually pitched trying to make a move for the illusive pocket. I caught a lot of air- enough to consider and then reconsider my angle of entry multiple times. Despite a swollen ankle and a jacked up knee I was fine. I climbed back up the rope, finished the route (this time having clipped the second to last bolt), and lowered. After I untied I decided to retire for the day. Not really rattled, just disappointed. I thought it would be in my best interest to give the project a rest in favor of pursuing other ventures. I was also fairly concerned that I may have significantly impaired my mobility, and I was eager to get a hold of an ice pack.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KQLKgWM41EQiUkiO3EnDK-OX3WwEcPlfjRvn2-rsCqyJ3f5Qm2497UHTTkdvSwhLhlJx2R9gasEG31SUo1qz4kG0Lq4AJUMocEVKpvpAQY3mkxHgZJM7dFNrJEzPZr_ujOPbdZj-ymle/s400/darkside.jpg" width="276" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Photo by David Pendon</span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /></div></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Subsequent days were spent at Midnight Surf, The Solarium, and The Dark Side. While I had no particular expectations at Midnight Surf or The Solarium, The Dark Side did house my secondary objectives for the week- Mind Meld (5.12d) and The Return of Darth Moll (5.13b/c). After warming up on the nearby Padawan Wall, I began my session with an on-sight attempt of Mind Meld, a route with a reputation for being difficult for the grade. I was able make it through the opening boulder problem and the deceptive band of pockets that perforates the lower half of the cliff with relative ease, but got powered down trying to get through the last series of long pulls. After a short break I was able to send the route second go. I highly recommend it if you're into powerful pocket pulling and proper fitness climbing. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">After settling down from my recent conquest, I tied back in and gave The Return of Darth Moll a burn. Verdict: This route is savage- really powerful moves followed by burly fitness-based climbing. Similar in style to Elephant Man, but far more sustained and significantly cruxier. Just another reason why the Dark Side is my favorite cliff at the Red! As psyched as I was to make links, I decided to forgo a second attempt on the route. Somewhere along the line I had misplaced a considerable amount of skin. I knew that another attempt would only result in a greater loss. So, I packed my things and finished the day at Solar Collector with an exciting, try-hard on-sight of Ethics Police (5.11d).</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">With my visit coming to an end, I was faced with some difficult decisions. My session at The Dark Side destroyed my skin and I still lacked full mobility since my epic drop on Kaleidoscope. In order to put in worthwhile attempts on the project, I would have to forfeit two days of climbing. I knew my chances of putting Kaleidoscope together would be low if I didn't allow my skin to grow back, and taking the low road (climbing more days and racking up more pitches) didn't excite me as much as punching in for the send. The forecast for the remainder of the week was another hurdle. It appeared that there would be a slight chance of rain on game day. But I decided to gamble. I figured that I had come back to Kentucky for one route, and to walk away from it just because of a few obstacles seemed like a chump move. So I went to bed, relatively confident that I had made the right decision.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I awoke the next morning to gray skies, steady rain, and a dense mist hanging in the air. I was, of course, worried. I did my best to keep my head straight and spirits high, but I couldn't shake the thought that I had screwed myself. With that much rain fall I was unsure if the route would be dry. But not being one to roll over, I ran up to the cliff any way. A visual inspection suggested that the wall had picked up some moisture. After sampling the first few moves on Kaleidoscope, I began polling the other PMRP patrons (including a few who had been on Kaleidoscope). To my surprise, the consensus was that the climbing conditions were fine- unencumbered by the precipitation. It didn't make any sense to me, but I didn't want to waste time speculating.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I decided to warm up on the route and fell low on the route's first crux- a long move from improbable sloper to a sloping edge. After reaching the anchors I was confident that the route would go. The conditions were remarkably good, and my method for the upper bit checked out. </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">My second attempt brought me painstakingly close the anchors- falling off the last questionable hold before the route opens up. I was able to reach to the summit on my third try, and while it was an anti-climactic end to an otherwise bizarre week of obstacles, I was relieved to have this project in the books.</span></span><br />
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</tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Whitney Boland, Kaleidoscope 5.13c </span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Video by Mike Call</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Now I'm back in Illinois- recovering and resetting. While I probably won't be back to take care of Golden Boy (5.13b), The Madness (5.13c), or Darth Moll (5.13b/c), I'm oddly okay with that- relieved even. As of late, I've found the process of projecting to be quite stressful. Walking the line that divides success and abject failure is something I've done with relative ease until recently. I've spent the last nine months traveling and climbing, and as great as the experience has been, I think I'm ready to for a break. I need to lay low, get my mind right. Don't get me wrong- I'm happy with the progress I've made, but I'm ready for a change. </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Sometimes priorities <i>need</i> to change, and sometimes you <i>want </i>them to change. </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I'll certainly continue climbing, but perhaps this time with no goals, no expectations, no stress- just back to basics.</span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-82743224327260282172010-11-05T16:26:00.000-07:002010-11-05T18:09:57.093-07:00back in the saddle<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">Last week I found myself back in Beattyville battling erratic conditions, a challenging to-do list, and some unforeseen domestic issues. Yikes! As you might have expected, things kicked off at the Motherlode. Predictable? Sure. Do I mind being predictable? Not really. <br />
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A new project was in the queue and the pragmatist in me decided to forfeit my "on-sight" attempt on The Madness (5.13c) in favor of doing some multi-pitch bouldering instead (I do enjoy an honest on-sight, but I'm not delusional). After two fact finding missions, my third overall attempt resulted in big links. I was able to make it through the majority of the steep section before bobbling the exit crux- a long move to and off of a sloping crimp. From there I was able to make it to the poor rest that guards the last 30 feet of climbing- which also happens to be the most difficult section. <br />
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Before I tied in, I was able to talk shop with a friend of mine who was also working the route. We both came to the conclusion that serious red-point attempts would require skipping the last two bolts before the anchor. The climbing in the upper fourth gets serious, and stopping to clip bolts would most likely jeopardize a successful summit. The last 30 feet of climbing begins with a crimpy boulder problem that features a difficult lock-off in order to gain a sparsely featured sloping beach, and ends with long pulls between flat, half to full pad crimps. <br />
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Rather than risking a big whip (I was no longer on-point, after all), I opted for the no hands rest and hung on the rope. If I fell, I would have no way to get back on, and consequently, I wouldn't be able to beta check my method for the upper fourth of the route. After catching my breath, I punched through the crux, skipped the bolts, and clipped the anchors.<br />
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Feeling satisfied with my progress, I ended the day with a second go send of Hot for Teacher (5.12c). An embarrassing on-sight attempt earlier in the day found me on the wrong side of a 50/50 shot at the chains. I tried to rectify my mistake by down climbing and attempting to execute the right sequence, but it was too late. I had totally hosed myself. Completely sauced, I made what must have appeared to be <b><i>the</i></b> most pathetic slap at the final hold. It was more of a wave really, as if to say "good-bye" to an otherwise flawless on-sight. Oh well. As nice as it would have been to get this route right off the bat, I certainly didn't mind giving it another go. Despite what the guidebook may lead you to believe, Hot for Teacher is quite possibly the best of the grade in the Red- definitely my new favorite. If you get a chance, check it out.</span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEPnSZPtgXh2bXiBAYjpZd59Ns_V9Dz8LMJRpc3UfUiNdv2paWd7yHod79eiW-V9ltlR268RzDWHhoziyfoztzmLBA1EBOAi7MV2dX4BqXzMhclrcd2n_xnfJVyfiis6ppyn-LA7Ga3kU/s1600/blur.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEPnSZPtgXh2bXiBAYjpZd59Ns_V9Dz8LMJRpc3UfUiNdv2paWd7yHod79eiW-V9ltlR268RzDWHhoziyfoztzmLBA1EBOAi7MV2dX4BqXzMhclrcd2n_xnfJVyfiis6ppyn-LA7Ga3kU/s320/blur.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo By Robert Smith</span></span><br />
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</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">The days to follow saw a radical turn in the weather. Gray skies, tornado warnings, and an unexpected spike in humidity forced us to temporarily abandon our projects. Things were slowing down and motivation was low. But rather than calling it quits, a clutch decision was made to scale back expectations until better weather resurfaced. Seizing the poor conditions as an opportunity to add some diversity to our climbing routine, my good friend Robert Smith took the reigns and set the agenda. Neither of us had climbed the recently revived Beer Trailer Crag, and we decided to do some reconnaissance. We spent most of the day at the main wall where I was able to on-sight three 5.12a's. I generally prefer longer routes, and even though these climbs were short, I definitely enjoyed them. Big moves, big holds- what's not to like? Once we finished sampling some of the older routes, we made our way over to the newly bolted wall where I managed to botch the on-sight of The Hang Over (5.12c)- an amazing, sustained route with a short, but proper crux halfway through the climb. I can't wait to try it again!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Despite the gloomy and potentially dangerous weather, it turned out to be a good day. It was nice to take a break from the usual routine and to spend the day just climbing- no pressure, no plans, no expectations. If you haven't been, I highly recommend visiting The Beer Trailer Crag. If things go south, you can always bail and enjoy a drink with the guys down at the Beer Trailer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">Once the weather began to pick back up, I clocked back in and got to work. A visit to the Dark Side was in order, and all available resources were diverted to the project: Elephant Man (5.13b). Short on time, I was forced to leave this particular project undone during my last visit. To say that I was eager to return to the Dark Side would be a gross understatement. Elephant Man is the sickest line I have ever tried, and I wanted it- bad. It's the epitome of precision and power endurance- a style of climbing that I enjoy, but one that I don't particularly excel at. From the ground to the sixth bolt there are no shakes, no places to chalk up, and clipping a few of the bolts is taxing for sure. The only proper rest comes after the first boulder problem. Which happens to be at the first bolt. Not very helpful. I epic-ed for three days trying to link the exit crux into the red-point crux between the fifth and sixth bolt, always succeeding in one hanging the route.</span><br />
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</div><span style="font-size: 85%;">After two close calls, I was able to send the route on my third attempt that day. It was a relief to put this route down- it was a battle for sure.</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqeU43JNh33EleSVgmBR6clzB3zf586ZSeKe2Kccvnv7LDLzh9Nki1wocj9giXFb_cGLjXilhXNs_YAMPl-necnPy4uH33qD3Gx0cy8GyprAQS5NagdNhAgA9u576jWqEX4HMNpd72QYq6/s1600/darkside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqeU43JNh33EleSVgmBR6clzB3zf586ZSeKe2Kccvnv7LDLzh9Nki1wocj9giXFb_cGLjXilhXNs_YAMPl-necnPy4uH33qD3Gx0cy8GyprAQS5NagdNhAgA9u576jWqEX4HMNpd72QYq6/s400/darkside.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Aaron Stover, The Force (5.13a)</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo By Selene Ma </span><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">I've never put so many burns on a route before, and I think it's fair to say that things got a bit tense on day three. Frustration, disappointment, and self-doubt ran like poison through my veins- definitely not a good place to be if you're trying to red-point. I'm willing to admit that I enjoy dispatching projects quickly, and I suppose my ability to do most things in quick fashion has become a bit of a reputation to live up to. So, to spend so much time on one route definitely put me out of sorts.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">That being said, I do realize that you can't be a super hero every day. Disappointment is a part of climbing- that's a reality, but it's important to understand that failure isn't as simple not clipping chains or having an epic burn on the project. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">I think </span><span style="font-size: 85%;">the word "failure" is only applicable when an individual ends the day without learning something about themselves, their climbing, or even their project. The individuals who can set their emotions aside and learn from a disappointing day at the cliff are the ones that will continue to progress. Even staying committed when things are looking grim and returning to an illusive project over and over again is a true test of character. Resiliency has been a recurring theme this year, and I've learned that pushing through those gray areas demonstrates a capability within an individual to survive, to succeed, and to ultimately excel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">At any rate, the short lived celebration of my recent conquest had manifested itself in a series of high-fives, approving nods, and the obligatory fist bump. As they often do, gears switched quickly (I wouldn't have it any other way). We packed our things and headed back to where we began: the Lode. My friend Sammy was gearing up to put the hurt down on Skin Boat (5.13a), and I felt that it was time to give Tuna Town the on-sight attempt that I had been putting off since Spring. In the end, I was able to successfully on-sight Tuna Town (5.12d). Most probably a bit low in the grade, but a fun climb regardless. I was happy to close the book on the Motherlode with such a notorious route. I suppose it's not entirely fair to say that I am done with the Lode, but the five remaining routes are currently over my head (White Man's Overbite (hard for the grade 5.13c), White Man's Shuffle (hard for the grade 5.13d), Thanatopsis (5.14b), Transworld Depravity (5.14a), and Omaha Beach (5.14a)). Maybe next Fall? Yeah, next Fall.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;">On the whole, it wasn't a bad week in the office. Luckily, it looks as though the weather will be cooling off, and as always I'm excited to get back to the cliff. Halfway through the season, halfway through the list- very excited for November. The next project in the line-up happens to be one that I left undone this Spring, Kaleidoscope (5.13b/c). Hopefully we get it to go!</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><object style="height: 390px; width: 640px;"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/c94wOZqr1xY?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/c94wOZqr1xY?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="450" height="278"></object></div></div></div></div><span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"> </span></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-7576791208132781582010-10-20T15:37:00.000-07:002010-10-21T11:25:02.948-07:00on to the next one<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 85%;">As it has in the past, the blog has taken a back seat to other priorities. But I'm back, re-energized, and excited to catalog the weeks since the 24 Hour competition. After returning from Arkansas, I spent some time in Southern Illinois and Eastern Kentucky lining up various short-term and long-term projects.<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The season started off with a whimper, not a bang, and a short visit to Southern Illinois left me feeling lukewarm. I'll spare the details, but the bottom line is that the season hasn't made it's appearance in So Ill just yet.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">But rather than waiting around for ideal conditions to shore up, I switched gears and made my way to Kentucky- the first time since Labor Day. I spent a week at the Red, and during my visit I got closer to making my long term goal of shutting down the Motherlode a reality. I was able to make some head way on the Undertow Wall with second go red-points of Flux Capacitor (5.12d) and Harvest (5.12d), and on-sights of Resurrection (5.12c) and Team Wilson (5.12d)- both considered by most to be tough for the grade. Now, the only line left on the Undertow is the infamous Tuna Town (5.12d)- a route which I am allegedly saving for a proper on-sight attempt. Knowing that I only have one shot to do it on-sight has me putting it off. I've punted on easier on-sight attempts, so I figure I'll get on it when I feel up to it. The pressure!</span></span></div><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The rest of my stay was devoted to two projects that I added to the list this Spring, but was unable to try. I began my campaign on the Madness Cave earlier this year with red-points of 40 Ounces of Justice (5.13a) and BOHICA (5.13b). This week I was able to check Flour Power (5.13b) off the list as well. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">As I've written in previous <a href="http://ydaneshyar.blogspot.com/2010/05/motherlode.html">posts</a>, climbing in the cave is taxing. The routes in the cave are 100 feet of relentlessly steep sandstone. More moves means more opportunities to bobble, and, worse yet, more work if you manage to punt near the end of the pitch. To add to the stress, I hadn't really pinned down the final crux on the route- which happens to be 2 bolts from the anchor. I had two conceivable options, neither of which I was looking forward to doing on point. I was faced with either implementing a dodgy hand-heel match that would all but guarantee a stunning wobbler if it cut loose, or a long accuracy move that would have slim chances of success if I was unable to check the vicious barn door. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Fortunately for me, the day I returned to the Lode for the red-point, Monique Forester and Whitney Boland were working on Flour Power and its extension, Pushing Up Daisies (5.13c). They were able to give me an excellent method for negotiating the final boulder problem, and while I did have reservations about trying a new sequence on the fly, it was clear that the success rate of their approach would be much higher than either of my own. Thanks guys!</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was glad that I put Flour Power down on my first proper red-point attempt. It was a considerable source of stress for me, so to have it done early on in the week gave me some breathing room to jump on my other project at the Dark Side. </span></span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">Elephant Man (5.13b) is a serious bit of rock climbing. While no single boulder problem is harder than another, there happens to be one at every bolt. Up to the 6th bolt (</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">roughly two thirds of the climb)</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">. With no rests. With the worst holds being part of the exit. Awesome.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;"> Conditions hadn't quite lined up for this pitch, but I was able to one hang it high despite the unexpected heat that dominated the majority of my stay. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;"> Once things cool off I'll be back to make that last push and clip chains!</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO31kkWKiZ8MvZcOyK5mxNknpGA3pMPQfHd0ua5SZyhzsCyzoTPoD57mFPxszA-5kdkkICe5RGlRlzo0_xAv133Fh3ZP7OzM35r7kSXVJcGQdPa6Er85PqEVm9GZLhYIhtluXMoOsr3wZ/s1600/IMG_4723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpO31kkWKiZ8MvZcOyK5mxNknpGA3pMPQfHd0ua5SZyhzsCyzoTPoD57mFPxszA-5kdkkICe5RGlRlzo0_xAv133Fh3ZP7OzM35r7kSXVJcGQdPa6Er85PqEVm9GZLhYIhtluXMoOsr3wZ/s400/IMG_4723.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Projecting is an intriguing process - to be so invested, maniacally devoted even, to a single thought, to finally make it a reality, and then to walk away from it seems like neurotic behavior, doesn't it? From inception to execution, the process can take days, weeks, sometimes months or even years. Conversely, the act of red-pointing a project only takes a few minutes, and its hold lasts only moments. The feeling of victory, at least for me, is incredibly fleeting. When it's over, I'm left thinking about the next pitch, the next project. Often times the thrill of success only lasts while I'm being lowered from the anchors. As soon as I untie, I'm on to the next one.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">It's that intensity, that polarity, that I find so compelling. It's interesting how quickly we forget our successes, and how long we remember our failures. I can't count how many nights I've lost sleep pouring over the moves in my head, suffered from the anxiety that accompanies the <i>thought</i> of failure, or woken up with my hands drenched with sweat. At times it can test your motivation and your resiliency for the sport, but that's part of the process. Finding ways to balance success and failure continues to bring me back- not the numbers, not the notoriety, not the accolades.</span> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">I often think that your status as a climber is dictated not by what you've done, but by what you're doing. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">Recently I've been feeling a bit washed up. A series of lackluster performances had checked my vitality- hard. So it was nice to rally and turn things around. I had a rough go of it this Summer, and I felt as though I had taken huge steps back in terms of my performance, despite spending months diligently rehabbing my injuries and training my weaknesses. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">I don't consider myself to be an incredible athlete or a natural talent. I don't have any of the traditional strengths- power, fitness, or technical sensibilities. What little success I've had in these disciplines, I've had to work incredibly hard to achieve.</span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> My career has been fueled by failure, and countless hours of suffering at the crag and in the gym. When you put so much time and heart into something it feels good to succeed, but it's bound to feel even worse when you come up short. </span></span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;">It is, however, important to shake these moments, to dig deeper, to use them to motivate you, and to inspire personal growth.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: 85%;"> I think my proclivity for suffering and my relentless drive seem to offset the disparities in my basic, physical attributes as a climber. </span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">In part, what makes most climbers perform at their best is having that obsession, that drive.</span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I'll be heading back to Kentucky soon, hopefully keeping positive vibes on high. On the whole, I'd say that the Fall season has started out well, and I'm excited to get back to the cliff. See you out there.</span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-86893728732391560462010-09-28T11:35:00.000-07:002010-10-01T00:45:34.904-07:00got 'em<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">After 24 hours of rock climbing, I'm back and fully recovered. As expected, this year's event was completely out of order. 240 competitors stormed the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, AR and climbed a staggering 11,937 routes.<br /><br />Eleven thousand,<br /><br />nine hundred,<br /><br />thirty seven routes.<br /><br />Wow.<br /><br />23 of those individuals joined the Century Club this year by sending a minimum of 100 routes during the 24 hour competition. Shout outs to Alex Honnold who smashed Tommy Caldwell's score, Daniel Schuerch who locked down 160 routes, and Dane Iwata and Marc Chagnon, first time competitors who each climbed 101 pitches. A huge step up from last year- definitely impressed, definitely inspired!<br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><br /></span></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7YbgBkBIvH6le8ivAoHzgGriiO4_8c1FJyta78VjLET-9E5UITgFl-MbjEmGgPHEAPW4JOBeS5RqkyeyF9NrYPojuRq-GWLVmyILTb7fE6RB8Nd4Yp-897YVxUtGoj17kEq5n1UNpHuQ/s1600/61279_638056886752_3106271_36500097_4526958_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7YbgBkBIvH6le8ivAoHzgGriiO4_8c1FJyta78VjLET-9E5UITgFl-MbjEmGgPHEAPW4JOBeS5RqkyeyF9NrYPojuRq-GWLVmyILTb7fE6RB8Nd4Yp-897YVxUtGoj17kEq5n1UNpHuQ/s400/61279_638056886752_3106271_36500097_4526958_n.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522949329269028962" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Photo by John Budde<br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"></span></span><br /></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I think the truly amazing thing about this event is that it allows competitors to set new personal goals every year, and there seems to be a definite evolution- from simply wanting to finish, to aiming for big numbers, to exclusively climbing on gear, to gunning for the top 10. The list of possible challenges and their combinations is endless. It's crazy! 24HHH has a versatility that a traditional climbing competition just doesn't have. I suppose the primary goal would be to place top 3, but it's nice to throw out the conventional competitive playbook as it were, and to, instead, construct your own personal goal(s). I often joke that no one actually wins this event (I mean, really- you're essentially suffering for 24 hours), but the reality is that this is the only event where there can be 240 winners. A bit after-school special, I know, but it's refreshing to see such camaraderie, and such genuine congratulatory exchanges between competitors. It's mind blowing how supportive this community is.<br /><br />The only way I can think to describe the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is that it's like going to war. I apologize if this analogy seems crass or in bad taste, but you're sharing an incredibly unique experience with strangers who quickly become allies and friends. You help carry each other, you're invested in everyone's performance, and you want everyone to make goal- to make it to Sunday morning. And, once it's over, you share a connection, a bond, that no one else can relate to. It's a difficult energy to articulate, but perhaps you'll have to sign up <a href="http://www.twofourhell.com/">next year</a> to find out!<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLlPOE_5YYKqhWaHsKVoyeovyebkaLJiHN0BhPgjxH1tyVtjPb153MplgNPptj_9tWEY5sgxlGXYTZFZTkPocc36y0aa07pzr66_gyP3nraG2zIm6ZDMEkna8DAufvuilmmSi6aV4GFSq/s1600/60981_1502257158798_1305270420_31567356_6238487_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLlPOE_5YYKqhWaHsKVoyeovyebkaLJiHN0BhPgjxH1tyVtjPb153MplgNPptj_9tWEY5sgxlGXYTZFZTkPocc36y0aa07pzr66_gyP3nraG2zIm6ZDMEkna8DAufvuilmmSi6aV4GFSq/s400/60981_1502257158798_1305270420_31567356_6238487_n.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522949325238108098" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;">Photo by Gina Wilmott</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ><span style="font-size:78%;"></span></span><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"></span></span></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Even though we hadn't talked about the competition much (or at all, really), my partner John and I had a clear objective for this year's two-four. We both wanted to climb 100 routes over the course of 24 hours. When we broke it down to the numbers (i.e. how many routes we needed to average per hour, how much time we could spend on a each route to stay on target, etc.), the task seemed daunting- impossible, really. But, the challenge of making the seemingly impossible seem effortless is what draws me to climbing, and I certainly wasn't going to let doubt dictate the outcome of this event.</span><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ynPSPpW81Dj9uhTnofhWoeeSGsdUZIoInkNz4tFSXsnaJeaRtG-GbFVUGyP59Ev9Z87a1-gV8iCSrOyge3oznNh8UrvtG24psY_hcIec5zsZZ1GyijeJ0Gi4hv7e3YfX_Cl2bZkXZAZa/s1600/IMG_0275.JPG"><br /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br />Now, I'm not much for planning; so scoping out routes beforehand, keeping track of our progress, and watching the clock seemed like too much work for me. Instead, we came to the conclusion that the best strategy was to keep it simple.<br /><br />We decided to wing it.<br /><br />Admittedly, the sustainability of the "Can't Stop, Won't Stop" campaign did come into question early on, but it was the only plan we had, so we rolled with it.</span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> We also made it a point to not keep track of our progress- we simply updated our scorecard when time permitted. I didn't want us to feel dejected if we were behind, or to relax our pace if we were ahead. I think it's important to never let doubt or hubris dictate the outcome- you have to stay hungry, regardless of how things are transpiring, if you want to succeed. That being said, we hadn't looked at our progress until the halfway point. When we turned in our scorecards at the check-in, we were stoked to see that we were on track. At 10 p.m. we had bagged 50 routes each! Yeah-yuh!</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBHirO8xPZtaBvmPBCyhcx4GOgfn0ieqZ7xu9RPxqax3AQb67y3aWF6I5zHlv1Sm09ZIvt0T8qxCIqzZ_j_v7S5ZuIsh4LrjLbfKzkSPmYK65P0h7aQvDjBL2t3Qg1WG9LW90cTE01vGu/s1600/62915_709632264297_20614194_39681913_1922761_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBHirO8xPZtaBvmPBCyhcx4GOgfn0ieqZ7xu9RPxqax3AQb67y3aWF6I5zHlv1Sm09ZIvt0T8qxCIqzZ_j_v7S5ZuIsh4LrjLbfKzkSPmYK65P0h7aQvDjBL2t3Qg1WG9LW90cTE01vGu/s400/62915_709632264297_20614194_39681913_1922761_n.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522949332291457282" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ></span></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Photo by Scott Fitzgerald</span></span><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"></span></span></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Fueled by the good news and the good vibes that electrified the North 40, we punched the clock. A brief rain shower in the middle of the night gave us a bit of a scare. We were, of course, worried that if the rain continued (or worse, intensified), our chances of making goal would be jeopardized. Fortunately, the rain moved out and when all was said and done, John and I had exceeded our goal (albeit by a small margin). We each climbed 106 routes- 212 total over the course of 24 hours, and we also managed to eke our way into the top 10. Got 'em!<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHvHD49SwCh-2_i0q_FtIbpxaPbj366JrS4XBG5ilozkuMiC_fOJ28gt3pNwGtXY81CY9BSUf2Szda34fQQ0ouCxinEh469vGdr6WO9OQbvUdAM5GR5n9Ts-XOps_u5Ety1ZieUWNX07C/s1600/untitled.bmp"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHvHD49SwCh-2_i0q_FtIbpxaPbj366JrS4XBG5ilozkuMiC_fOJ28gt3pNwGtXY81CY9BSUf2Szda34fQQ0ouCxinEh469vGdr6WO9OQbvUdAM5GR5n9Ts-XOps_u5Ety1ZieUWNX07C/s400/untitled.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522952658596420290" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ></span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Can't Knock This Hustle</span></span><br /><br /></span></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">It was a big year for the two four event- I can't thank Andy, his team, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">the HCR Staff,</span> </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">the volunteers, the sponsors, and, of course, Barry and Amy enough for putting on such an amazing event year, after year. It truly is one of the best climbing events in the country- if not <span style="font-style: italic;">the</span> best. If visiting the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is part of your Fall season, please make sure to follow <a href="http://www.climbhcr.com/rules.html">the new guidelines</a>. Do your part by picking up trash and paying for your <a href="http://www.climbhcr.com/rates.html">camping/day-use fees</a>. Barry, Amy, Jason, and the crew are nice enough to let us climb on the property, we should reciprocate by respecting <a href="http://www.climbhcr.com/rules.html">their rules</a>!<br /><br />Thanks for reading, we'll see everyone next year! I can't wait!</span></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><object width="450" height="278"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/oDoZpiLzCms?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&hd=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/oDoZpiLzCms?fs=1&hl=en_US&rel=0&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999&hd=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="450" height="278"></embed></object></span></span><br /><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:78%;">Video by Andy Chasteen</span></span><br /></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-65810668057399075802010-09-20T20:41:00.000-07:002010-09-22T00:20:03.428-07:00time check<span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >This past Saturday marked my first day back in Southern Illinois since March. Admittedly, a visit to Jackson Falls this early on may have been a bit premature, but I was driven by sheer desperation. In the three years that I've been climbing in Illinois, I have never once bothered to visit during the summer. But, weeks of pulling on plastic, and the prospect of spending the day with my friends made my decision an easy one to make. Humidity, the conventional kryptonite, was relatively low, and a session at Railroad Rock made things far more enjoyable as we were able to dodge direct sun-light.</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvOKxuBUJ8g1Oy8RfocjaCmLc5xLGKwNGPCTSXnl9F7Bbjh3FBI_z3u9W_3wsjN9ZudYN9nBVm3Ez-7HG3ug5yX9ugbNM93AcCONQQKmD0ex1b5WzR6Q_pkZPDJzFeFDeFnszmBws3UBI/s1600/IMG_0288.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvOKxuBUJ8g1Oy8RfocjaCmLc5xLGKwNGPCTSXnl9F7Bbjh3FBI_z3u9W_3wsjN9ZudYN9nBVm3Ez-7HG3ug5yX9ugbNM93AcCONQQKmD0ex1b5WzR6Q_pkZPDJzFeFDeFnszmBws3UBI/s400/IMG_0288.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519240969627397938" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-size:78%;">Photo by Alex Gamble, 24HHH 2008</span><br /><br /></span></div><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >All things considered, it was a fairly productive day. The day began with an onsight of American Hand Gunner (5.11d), a route notoriously difficult for the grade. American Hand Gunner was a route that I always wanted to do, but never made time for. Limited time, and higher priority projects always forces certain routes further, and further down the list. It's unfortunate, because many of these routes are often five-star. They simply don't see as much traffic because they happen to be low in the grade. Stop chasing numbers!<br /><br />From the ground, American Hand Gunner (like most routes at the Falls) seemed impervious to attack. A closer look revealed a weakness, albeit not much of one. I'll spare the heavy details, but it is definitely worth checking out. American Hand Gunner is like Hidden Treasure (5.12a), without the fluff. Sequential pockets, long moves, a proper boulder problem on credit card sized crimps, and an exciting top out. It's a brilliant example of the unique brand of challenging movement only found in Southern Illinois. Stellar!<br /><br />The rest of the day included a repeat of Barbarians at the Gate (5.12a/b), an exciting lesson in poor decision making on Slabstick Comedy (5.12a), and a less than valiant effort on Everybody Needs Friends (5.12a).<br /><br />I still find it surprising that people don't recognize Jackson Falls as a five-star locale. Southern Illinois is home to the most brilliant and engaging sandstone I have ever encountered. And sure- with my limited experience, that may not be the highest of endorsements. But, for what it's worth, I still think So Ill is top notch.<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.twofourhell.com/"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 140px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkafI4yibJB-OWEN6JxV9c_yEP_1TfEVUDxmgpj0qtsiEwXj0dvp52_uEwWLqP9rQd9tm9Qa5x1vAMYMf9hbWtm_LYAOyEl7KJ2Bh3AazwmRTW8V_DAtv4TF9NmcITtxMD9Lgo79LRANrY/s400/untitled.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519241731874326130" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:78%;"><a href="http://www.twofourhell.com/">www.twofourhell.com</a></span></div><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><br />In other news, the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell Competition is this weekend. I've teamed up with my friend John Oungst, who, back in 2006, was my partner during the first 24HHH. I'm excited to have John on board, and I can't wait to cover as much vertical mileage as possible! I'll be sure to chronicle the weekend once we've had a chance to recover from the self-inflicted sleep deprivation. Fortunately for us, the weather looks as if it will be letting up. Even though we'll be suffering on the inside, we can at least enjoy blue skies, good conditions, and the company of the 200+ individuals who will all inevitably regret their decision to sign up for this event.<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXMt5f5xHHyTXW9E_YhpkJF4BhneJgcS8KE6lrrkvp1Qlb9o008A0e3AIn9p3sdvlm-oCh_oFTCh311qEyymATRXhbbxTyTydrhKG2CTgjkYGJUWcB9ps5GfvG1ZpE2ar1hRlIoP_ehRVB/s1600/comp.bmp"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXMt5f5xHHyTXW9E_YhpkJF4BhneJgcS8KE6lrrkvp1Qlb9o008A0e3AIn9p3sdvlm-oCh_oFTCh311qEyymATRXhbbxTyTydrhKG2CTgjkYGJUWcB9ps5GfvG1ZpE2ar1hRlIoP_ehRVB/s400/comp.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519263099134438834" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-size:78%;">Yeah-Yuh!</span><br /><br /></span></div><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Which reminds me- Fall is fast approaching! Months of relentless plastic pulling, hyper-focused conditioning, and over-all suffering for that singular pursuit is about to pay off. Despite the ups and downs along the way, I'm excited for the season. I've outlined a few goals/projects, and the plan is to stay focused, to stay hungry, and to grow from the experience. Staying driven is key- it's commitment, not excuses, that makes progress possible. That being said- enjoy this short by Mike Call, featuring Jacinda Hunter, and get psyched for your season!<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/13684277?byline=0&portrait=0&color=c9ff23" width="400" frameborder="0" height="225"></iframe></span><br /></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-76198193891825362572010-09-08T10:23:00.000-07:002010-09-08T16:37:38.421-07:00the weekend warrior<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZKGNlHHQpfz64lL9tXtEEXLmPPiLZQbaWrc-OwtZsfNPaiQ-9O0lueEGzDgDT5irCt_Fqmf0l-EV3LCoE7k0pLemvWQLoFPYX19Qc6jGgZUt3ZFnKNGWVm0s7ro-cSszgPacGLDnkwz71/s1600/DSC04263_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZKGNlHHQpfz64lL9tXtEEXLmPPiLZQbaWrc-OwtZsfNPaiQ-9O0lueEGzDgDT5irCt_Fqmf0l-EV3LCoE7k0pLemvWQLoFPYX19Qc6jGgZUt3ZFnKNGWVm0s7ro-cSszgPacGLDnkwz71/s400/DSC04263_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514636815326902402" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Photo by Aaron Stover<br /><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Two weeks have passed since I returned home from the last leg of my trip. Things have slowed down a bit, and transitioning into a different lifestyle certainly has its challenges. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Being that the season at home has yet to turn over, climbing has been put on the back burner. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">My responsibilities are few and far between, and I've found it difficult to flesh out an agenda. I've been spending most of my time working on some long standing household projects, route setting at the gym, nursing old injuries, and, of course, training on plastic.</span></span><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipLHx1f1rCZwxe97ovOU2E6HFLtJqnt3dLzfxnUnwYWVSXe8XziRlu7w4M81aBVn15WPUZU4irui8Be8qZlH4exJHvarctPbsxt7Lh74T263ajQjqkxWcWkHT841y6EJp-LC5SE_Wea23S/s1600/DSC_0516.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 268px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipLHx1f1rCZwxe97ovOU2E6HFLtJqnt3dLzfxnUnwYWVSXe8XziRlu7w4M81aBVn15WPUZU4irui8Be8qZlH4exJHvarctPbsxt7Lh74T263ajQjqkxWcWkHT841y6EJp-LC5SE_Wea23S/s400/DSC_0516.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514637243686431442" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:78%;">Photo by Sophie Binder<br /><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Despite the limbo, the Fall season is making its way in and motivation is high. Though I have not finalized my decision, I am strongly leaning towards deferring employment until the end of the season. After several months on the road, I realized that I no longer want the full time job I had pursued so aggressively last year- at least not at the moment. Flexibility and spontaneity are far more rewarding than a paycheck. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Certainly, if something lucrative were to make itself available I would not turn it down (I may be young, but I'm not foolish). I realize that I can only use my age as an excuse for so long, but I've had my fill of planning. Since March, the plan has been to have no plan, and this maxim has turned 2010 (an otherwise crippling year) around.</span></span><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">So now I find myself, not waiting, but simmering- anticipating a rapid change for the best. Though my mother's health is improving, I plan to stay home until the end of her treatment. Leaving for another two months at this stage would be a bad call. Instead, I have decided to join the ranks as a weekend warrior. It's been a long time since I've had to commute to the office, but, as they often do, situations and circumstances change, and in order to succeed, we must adapt.</span></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Initially, I feared that without a proper season (one in which I moved to the crag) I would not be able to accomplish many of my short term and long term goals, but my good friend and personal hero, Rob Smith, assured me that even weekend visits can yield high returns.<br /></span></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw36ADRQOhST_36fHsM43M6l5IL_5zbOJiez25T3KfCTu6NTc2RtFOZfFCXPtaMvpUFHpiWghTOHipAN6iYa9uw9bo89DawZtszXTJIcuEX19O4ancxmer9UW8LU1fY78ihIihyRCle6t9/s1600/IMG_4668_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw36ADRQOhST_36fHsM43M6l5IL_5zbOJiez25T3KfCTu6NTc2RtFOZfFCXPtaMvpUFHpiWghTOHipAN6iYa9uw9bo89DawZtszXTJIcuEX19O4ancxmer9UW8LU1fY78ihIihyRCle6t9/s400/IMG_4668_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514637771104554866" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">So, this weekend I punched the clock and set out for the Red.</span></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">My goals were to do some reconnaissance on prospective projects for the season, and to clean up shop at the Motherlode. I left Kentucky at the end of the Spring thinking that I had finished every 13a at the Lode, but a closer inspection of the guidebook revealed that I had overlooked a route called "Hoofmaker." Hoofmaker is an amazing route that features an incredibly physical and seemingly improbable boulder problem through the first four bolts, and concludes with sustained, fitness-based climbing.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">My first day on the route was disappointing to say the least. Hot, hot heat and humid conditions contributed to an embarrassing onsight attempt, and an uninspired second go beta burn. Dejected, I decided that a partial day of multi-pitch bouldering had, at the very least, given me an idea as to how the route goes. The following day conditions were a bit better. Most of the humidity had burned off (key) and it was a bit cooler as well. I was able to one hang the route on my first go, and after acquiring some savvy beta from Cincinnati resident Scott Fisk, I was able to clip the chains next go. Yeah-yuh!</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The day ended with a flash of Rocket Dog (5.12b), thanks to my good friend, John Oungst, who provided all the vitals. Climbing is full of short-lived victories, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I think being hungry despite the results (good or bad) is what makes progress possible.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">This in mind, I turned my attention to the Madness Cave and ran a lap on Flour Power (5.13b). Knowing I was in no position to give it a proper onsight attempt, I chose instead to beta check the route by going bolt to bolt in the steep section. Initial impressions? Way steep, way killer, way psyched! The climbing following the obligatory sit down rest tackles small pockets and perfect crimps which give way to finger buckets at the fifth bolt. A race to the second to last bolt yields a great rest before the last tough bit- a long left hand cross through (either from a knee bar, heel hook, or a distant right foot) to a positive hold, a match, and several moves through sloping crimps. It's not quite as sustained as BOHICA, and some of the holds are considerably larger, but it certainly is cruxier. When things cool off I'll be back to make big links, clip chains, and Push up Daisies (5.13c)!</span></span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89YleSEGL9hDxAYm7dFk7OvSo_xUVWTi3zNO86iE7Y7bcWJMcaFMx_9p4DXGEubWmFnh8IB4RxixNus8i2FPYSAHKvb8jD7qJ1Ho6b8ip4rtsvkIkD0EAEkwhehIcuVG4Y44I0b4FUhSJ/s1600/59252_1445388648745_1054010289_1057263_2733827_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 291px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89YleSEGL9hDxAYm7dFk7OvSo_xUVWTi3zNO86iE7Y7bcWJMcaFMx_9p4DXGEubWmFnh8IB4RxixNus8i2FPYSAHKvb8jD7qJ1Ho6b8ip4rtsvkIkD0EAEkwhehIcuVG4Y44I0b4FUhSJ/s400/59252_1445388648745_1054010289_1057263_2733827_n.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514637884184078274" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Tony O'Connor Straight Hustlin'<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Despite the touch and go conditions, the weekend was a complete success. Team Saint Louis rolled on the Gorge deep (twenty people in total), making for great company, great conversation, and great entertainment. I even got hooked up with a haircut! Thanks again, Marion! It's a shame that full-time jobs prevent us from doing these sort of things more often, but I'm sure there will be other opportunities to hang. Until then, cheers!</span></span><br /><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDukgd0phq5Rr1g4hghvG56xgOc4gz_iFUK_CMffekq8DaULzKXx7N7EBVCufR3Vu1y_BbJYlDC8r3UAEf1CE8h-pQILZGFo-mww2ufYQYb1D7uAijx9IwJLvS7Kt3ISUEnUGRkEXijUs/s1600/41346_1445386928702_1054010289_1057246_5662147_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIDukgd0phq5Rr1g4hghvG56xgOc4gz_iFUK_CMffekq8DaULzKXx7N7EBVCufR3Vu1y_BbJYlDC8r3UAEf1CE8h-pQILZGFo-mww2ufYQYb1D7uAijx9IwJLvS7Kt3ISUEnUGRkEXijUs/s400/41346_1445386928702_1054010289_1057246_5662147_n.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514638139319755922" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Homies<br /></span></span></div></div>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-34392743335192053122010-08-17T21:29:00.000-07:002010-08-19T00:03:17.149-07:00utah update<span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Early last week, I had the pleasure of picking up a good friend from the Salt Lake City Airport. I last saw John when I returned to Illinois to see my parents, so it was great to have an old friend on board for the last leg of the trip. John had originally planned to spend a week in Colorado with Team Saint Louis (Kevin Boicourt, Dane Iwata, and Marc Chagnon), but at the last minute he scrapped Plan A in order to climb on cobbles with the boys from Illinoise.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br />Despite a relatively new finger injury, a several week absence from the sport, and some misplaced skin, John showed up with his A game- quickly dispatching several 5.12's including Orgasmo (5.12c), Hooked on Estrogen (5.12c), Functional Idiot (5.12b, Onsight), and The Drizzler (5.12b). Early on John had expressed concerns about his performance, so it was good to see him put things on the board.</span><br /><br /></span> <div style="text-align: center; font-family: trebuchet ms;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRxxIwFtWuB9fizMsIeX_rEcvJlO1nyYGZ1o-lgsJalN_Hh9hAQJysScndObwgpDyfmLn3g-HkGUl7ZLr_-W11trjkHUSP4RB7JK40Vlb0_8ZFhbWrgmaPQVKCLPuZ58ctPsxtRRJXXC-/s1600/DSC04154.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRxxIwFtWuB9fizMsIeX_rEcvJlO1nyYGZ1o-lgsJalN_Hh9hAQJysScndObwgpDyfmLn3g-HkGUl7ZLr_-W11trjkHUSP4RB7JK40Vlb0_8ZFhbWrgmaPQVKCLPuZ58ctPsxtRRJXXC-/s400/DSC04154.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506603540104527474" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;">Photo by Aaron Stover</span><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;">I, on the other hand, did not have much luck with my projects. It was a frustrating week as hopes were high to put down Loser (5.13a) and Sprout (5.13a). I was able to one hang both routes quickly, but subsequent attempts on these pitches bore no fruit. I successfully managed to one hang Sprout four times, and also managed to lose my high point on Loser on my third attempt. What? </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-family: trebuchet ms;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yN_ttNLrDks6sR3Y9SWsNJ4ne66kk5RsPfrgZe-OuuFcz59_2E_xv9qT6GKcX9-Fx-tejFhyTB1TKqQO-BmnChUlC6pHmutVHueiGrW_v-mnmduEe9r-QChVD0cStVlmMbS28gBYW01p/s1600/DSC04075.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yN_ttNLrDks6sR3Y9SWsNJ4ne66kk5RsPfrgZe-OuuFcz59_2E_xv9qT6GKcX9-Fx-tejFhyTB1TKqQO-BmnChUlC6pHmutVHueiGrW_v-mnmduEe9r-QChVD0cStVlmMbS28gBYW01p/s400/DSC04075.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506603325544809650" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;">Loser, 5.13a<br />Photo by Aaron Stover<br /><br /></span></div><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Within the last year I have become accustomed to sending 13a relatively quickly. I certainly thought these two routes (which suited me well) would go with little effort. Both routes feature sustained climbing with only one knee bar rest at the half way mark, and long lived crux sections. On my last attempt on Sprout I was able to unlock the knee bar rest that would have made linking the second half of the route possible, but my time ran out.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >It was disappointing to have spent three entire weeks in Maple only to leave empty handed. It certainly put me in a strange headspace. I felt as though both routes were well within my ability, but I couldn't shake the anxiety that stemmed from the countdown. Every day I was thinking about getting things done so I could either move on to the next pitch or leave Maple entirely. Time lines have never affected my performance. I generally climb at my own pace, but with the sand running through the hour glass, I suppose I put a great deal of unneeded pressure on myself.</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-family: trebuchet ms;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0gZWidxO-xsigMTtwpM-VubHyWMj6-QC1vC3elpyUkwoatY9B5Wlg_YkBlNrK4WBqE5RE2iBEi4TBpFSZRgCRxGqRT1t6r7F6szM9260YRTsn9LlWhmIVylG6JYn8UHo4zGY9I6sku6b/s1600/DSC04046.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0gZWidxO-xsigMTtwpM-VubHyWMj6-QC1vC3elpyUkwoatY9B5Wlg_YkBlNrK4WBqE5RE2iBEi4TBpFSZRgCRxGqRT1t6r7F6szM9260YRTsn9LlWhmIVylG6JYn8UHo4zGY9I6sku6b/s400/DSC04046.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506603004413921666" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;">Photo by Aaron Stover</span><br /><br /></div> <span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >I enjoy redpointing routes quickly, but not because I derive pleasure from expanding some sort of tick list. I think that being able to link a route in a few attempts demonstrates natural talent and unparalleled focus. When you've tried a route several times, you begin to hardwire it- the moves become ingrained and your body adapts to the stresses specific to that route. While it's true that projecting requires multiple failures before a single success, I think that sending a route because all the moves have been dialed only demonstrates the ability to adapt to repetitive behavior. I don't find sending a route that has been dialed rewarding in the least. Everyone has different philosophies or standards regarding their personal climbing performance, perhaps I am a bit too critical?</span> <span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><br /><br />At any rate, I decided that the remainder of my time in Maple would be better spent sampling more of the canyon's 5.12s. In total, I was able to put together 20+ routes between 5.12a and 5.12d all of which I was able to either onsight or redpoint second go. It was nice to consistently onsight 5.12c, and to even bag two 5.12d onsights.<br /><br />In climbing, I think it's key to roll with the punches. It's understandable to feel down when your ego is checked or when your expectations unexpectedly need to be re-evaluated, but learning to adapt to changing situations is part of being a climber. Whether you're retooling a sequence onsight or redefining your short term and long term goals, it's crucial to take a step back, collect yourself, and find a different approach. Rest assured, if you remain stubborn, you will stunt your growth. While I could have pushed John and Aaron to trek back to the Pipe Dream cave for one more attempt, it seemed that I could learn more by solidifying my base, focusing on revamping my onsight/redpoint tactics, and ultimately being humbled by leaving some short term goals open-ended. Regardless of my mediocre performance, it was nice to climb in a new locale with two of my good friends.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >On an unrelated note, we managed to arrange our last rest day around the Miss Sanpete County 2010 Beauty Pageant- a definite highlight. Unfortunately for us, poor planning on our part forced us to sit in the back of the theater, and being that my eye sight is quite poor, I was unable to make out much of Sanpete County's finest. After a heated swimsuit competition which featured entirely too many one-pieces, and the talent portion of the event which showcased an unfortunate oboe piece and a less than spectacular vocal performance of "I Need a Hero," we were able to hear from the contestants regarding their service platforms. In the end, one of the indescribable, blurry young women was crowned Miss Sanpete and the rest were given some sort of conciliatory title (Miss Congeniality, Miss Something or Other, etc). While there was quite the turn out for the event, it seemed as though Ephraim was shutting down for the night, so we hit the bricks and headed back to Maple Canyon.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;">In other news, our departure date is approaching fast, and in order to break up the long drive home we've decided to stop in Rifle, CO. After sampling some more of the States' best limestone crag, we'll make tracks for Boulder where we'll post up for a night at our friend Kika's place. Then we're heading East of East Saint Louis- I'm definitely psyched to go home, spend time with my family, see my friends, and plan out my Fall season. Get psyched!</span><br /><br /></span> <a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW4rQgj5vTQdo8Tn4VmypU5-mbSNbJBWRoYY_E7EQR7McCBiXXp8l45AYsKHa2FxZypuG9Uw9fnPi4J3Pojwr9dO6_Eo8cYQ2Y29PkdZUupuqSIaU3mKfcIiO6Ukg_1IjSryfydTecPLHh/s1600/DSCF1017.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW4rQgj5vTQdo8Tn4VmypU5-mbSNbJBWRoYY_E7EQR7McCBiXXp8l45AYsKHa2FxZypuG9Uw9fnPi4J3Pojwr9dO6_Eo8cYQ2Y29PkdZUupuqSIaU3mKfcIiO6Ukg_1IjSryfydTecPLHh/s400/DSCF1017.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506603772894267106" border="0" /></a>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-45982188868928401072010-08-02T16:34:00.000-07:002010-08-06T17:22:30.108-07:00we have arrived<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:trebuchet ms;" >Admittedly, I have been doing a poor job of updating the blog. Traveling has made finding time, and a reliable internet connection difficult. That being said, I have decided to fast track the blog in the interest of keeping the time line current. The few of you who are interested in knowing what went down in Canada please feel free to write, call, or share a comment.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Near the end of my stay in Kentucky, my good friend Aaron and I had discussed spending part of our Summer in Maple Canyon, UT. Initially it was just a thought- a plan that had been tabled once we agreed to visit our Canadian friends instead. When we found out that Aaron would be unable to make it up North, we decided to dust off Plan B. Two weeks after I arrived Stateside, Aaron flew into Denver and we made tracks for Utah.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0Q570JFkRhqju6x4PnKmojO-0zJMho18MFApk1AgTy8NDD6hlRwu6PnLK887VrAbJSSL3C_I_QCngFAwC0lw9-oOx1lKuQSLF4jOEuJoz4tsKPPOJxenRfayk-yPXoPG7Jblwcv4_xBK/s1600/DSC03816.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ0Q570JFkRhqju6x4PnKmojO-0zJMho18MFApk1AgTy8NDD6hlRwu6PnLK887VrAbJSSL3C_I_QCngFAwC0lw9-oOx1lKuQSLF4jOEuJoz4tsKPPOJxenRfayk-yPXoPG7Jblwcv4_xBK/s400/DSC03816.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502448850276183058" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br />I should start by noting that the first leg of our trip was a logistical nightmare. Running on six hours of sleep, we attempted to gather the equipment we so desperately needed, but failed to pack. A trip to the Denver Goodwill proved to be one of our few initial successes. We were able to procure a cook set, kitchenware, dishes, utensils, and a dry bin for under $15. It was a relief to have gotten everything we needed without breaking the bank. Between the two of us, we only had $350. Our financial situation was looking grim, and fully knowing that we may not have enough money for groceries, petrol, and camping fees for three weeks, we decided to go for it anyway. Why not? It's always the perfect season somewhere, right? We certainly didn't want to miss out. With the car packed, we set off for Maple. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />Ordinarily, the 500 mile drive between Denver, CO and Moroni, UT should take 8 hours. However, after discovering that all of the campsites at Maple had been reserved, we were forced to drive an additional 3 hours before we found another available campsite. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />In the next town over. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />An hour away from the crag.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Unbelievable.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Two consecutive days without sleep made it challenging to muster up the energy to hit the cliff, but we made it a point to climb three days on any way. We knew that we needed to build a base if anything was going to get done during our short stay. Our first two days were rough to say the least. We succeeded in doing the fewest number of pitches I have ever done during a session. After miraculously making it up three entire pitches at the Minimum Wall, we called it quits. Our second session at Box Canyon yielded the same results. Between our poor sleep schedule, our sub-par performance at the cliff, and our bleak financial situation, it seemed like nothing was going right.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />Things finally turned around on our third day. After catching up on some much needed sleep, and moving our campsite into Maple Canyon proper, we managed to get to the cliff at a reasonable time. In addition to the normalcy, we were able to log six pitches each, most of which were roughly 90 feet. It was a relief to have finally put one good day on the board. After three days of suffering, it would appear that we finally hit our stride. I have been enjoying the climbing here quite a bit, perhaps because it is relatively similar to the Gorge- steep, fitness-based climbing. Notable ascents so far have been onsights of Big Calm (12b), Orgasmo (12c), Space Lordz (12d), and a redpoint of Cobble in the Sky (12c)- all of which clock in between 90 and 100 ft. So psyched!<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtL6ajP5uuOlOFKKFK_Myz8cqITXpTa2569pppQUyHh1RFGy6-jQG_o_OMRJaoAtfOYYNCZ3_ajP04jakhppwiuoJkgMWiSiL-Rn7-W91uc-Q6ij0JYKpuycpMwFmq8kshMTzhuiEy0x8J/s1600/DSC03879.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtL6ajP5uuOlOFKKFK_Myz8cqITXpTa2569pppQUyHh1RFGy6-jQG_o_OMRJaoAtfOYYNCZ3_ajP04jakhppwiuoJkgMWiSiL-Rn7-W91uc-Q6ij0JYKpuycpMwFmq8kshMTzhuiEy0x8J/s400/DSC03879.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502449147445029522" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" >Chris Sharma, UBC 2010 Problem #2<br /></span><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" >Photo by Aaron Stover</span><br /></span></div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Tomorrow we're heading to Salt Lake City to check out the OR Trade Show. We're planning to catch the UBC Pro Tour in the evening, and if we're lucky, we might be able to sneak into the trade show to see whats new for 2011. Regardless of how our rest day goes, we're going to hit it hard the following day. The Pipe Dream cave is an impressive crag and has several amazing routes- all of which tear through a 100+ foot cave. Serious! A friend of mine turned me on to a route called The Great Feast (5.13c). I'm definitely excited to see how things go now that we have arrived in a positive head space.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />But, as always, all good things must come to an end. As I am writing this, water is slowly making its way into my tent through every available weakness. Who knew that it could rain this much in the desert? If I don't drown tonight I will do my best to update the blog more frequently. Traveling has made it difficult, but I'm sure things will settle out soon. They always do.</span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-20878311351919157432010-07-15T14:40:00.000-07:002010-07-22T00:29:04.359-07:00solo team<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">With the first leg of my Northern Ontario tour completed, I moved on to the cliffs along the Georgian Bay- eager to see what they had to offer. My friend Greg Williamson, whom I had met in Kentucky this past Spring, spoke highly of the area. After seeing an excerpt from the film "The Continuum Project," I was sold. I spent my first day with select members of the Toronto crew, and was given a proper tour of Lions Head (which was invaluable as the guidebook has been outdated for quite some time.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">)<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrSL5nvJcKIF8VyPU0WG3Yue6Bx1cB3-72FA45-vu0nN4LmQSRgDEl-VU8xmmAd8bGdxtitKR7E3Ay0FxbjgM57PSEirwxq2VuygUH8rmKPPmBzr5uMtHnDWyq5PYJN4HXczZXbtcWYDS/s1600/DSC_0486.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrSL5nvJcKIF8VyPU0WG3Yue6Bx1cB3-72FA45-vu0nN4LmQSRgDEl-VU8xmmAd8bGdxtitKR7E3Ay0FxbjgM57PSEirwxq2VuygUH8rmKPPmBzr5uMtHnDWyq5PYJN4HXczZXbtcWYDS/s400/DSC_0486.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496230815025320722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Photo by Miguel Jette</span></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ></span><br /><br /></span></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Lions Head is, by far, the most unique climbing area I have visited in my climbing career. While the climbing itself is distinct from other limestone crags I've encountered, it's unique nature truly exists in its accessibility. Unlike most crags, many of the routes do not start at the base of the cliff. The quality of the limestone here tends to diminish in certain sectors, while in others the cliff vanishes entirely- leaving a significant amount of open air between the climbable surface and the ground. As a result, many of the climbs require a hanging belay. Early on I was told that most of the locals prefer to rope solo because it offers easy access in to and out of the cliff, unparalleled efficiency, and it saves everyone from the hassle of the dreaded hanging belay.</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmBUY6cMQXGj_tu01aAEN17eSb6bjcJe6U_DqV014fsGmxJniMFaP8CeH-RWky03btlnkWom5zQK8iNziuuz404Zx4r4yegt7OM6yKzlEKCHaabs6eWL2-h2BU60uw574I3deFyBocufX/s1600/341631-work-DSCN5305.5.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmBUY6cMQXGj_tu01aAEN17eSb6bjcJe6U_DqV014fsGmxJniMFaP8CeH-RWky03btlnkWom5zQK8iNziuuz404Zx4r4yegt7OM6yKzlEKCHaabs6eWL2-h2BU60uw574I3deFyBocufX/s400/341631-work-DSCN5305.5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496434890283438034" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Unknown Climber, Maneline 5.10a</span><br /></span></div></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br />Many of the Toronto natives were only around for the long Canada Day weekend, and I was subsequently left to my own devices during the majority of my stay. Eager to get after it, I committed to the reality that if any climbing was going to get done it would have to be a solo mission.<br /><br />Rope soloing is a double-edged sword. While it certainly is a great way to pack in volume during a session, and a great way to suss out potential projects, it makes it quite difficult to commit to particular moves on point. Generally I don't think about the consequences of failing to execute. That's why someone else is on the other end of the rope, right? Rope soloing essentially adds another variable to an already complex equation. Typically I focus on deciphering sequences, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">committing to a plan, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">detoxing, lowering my heart rate, and maintaining a cadence. Being in charge of my own safety is something I have never had to consider, so incorporating this variable into my climbing repertoire </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">was incredibly challenging for me. But, as in most situations, we learn to adapt.</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZB0lEKfG7VeNxjqA-DIU2qRzyFRVGsFBcHY8D-cFofa3Z2xFVRz9kfgNGkHo8BwMEDLzAPiLWg2DvnZiO47t4Gq2VjMz84hWd4mFk4h32Ew-IYzfTn9MKbpSXCo36cMqCQo9Etwk1TGgV/s1600/DSC_0505.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZB0lEKfG7VeNxjqA-DIU2qRzyFRVGsFBcHY8D-cFofa3Z2xFVRz9kfgNGkHo8BwMEDLzAPiLWg2DvnZiO47t4Gq2VjMz84hWd4mFk4h32Ew-IYzfTn9MKbpSXCo36cMqCQo9Etwk1TGgV/s200/DSC_0505.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496225807568070530" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkoOtklRjMR6ALdLjVgtHD3TTRWzousSCO63_wiv1-lIFQPi0Wkdz-N-bguSQvJAQxGeE-8PHqhukaW8wrbc9t82HQSuv7xEyG2GaZbzt_MHhxx_udKAjmJhDO59LHbnWo1KZHA2iF6Mm/s1600/DSC_0504.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkoOtklRjMR6ALdLjVgtHD3TTRWzousSCO63_wiv1-lIFQPi0Wkdz-N-bguSQvJAQxGeE-8PHqhukaW8wrbc9t82HQSuv7xEyG2GaZbzt_MHhxx_udKAjmJhDO59LHbnWo1KZHA2iF6Mm/s200/DSC_0504.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496225702179497058" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbHxpeVR864PeGgdCc7Azqseljsb1oHowPsjUuPSaMW3v0PvVDRd-qF58k6vM2p9cBeJrCB0Us-2ERovc-UqHdcr3ZuQBH0fenn0lcKA6PBuCCyWegvLDa98y_Dd_XpXR2PWrHJZA_3O7F/s1600/DSC_0506.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbHxpeVR864PeGgdCc7Azqseljsb1oHowPsjUuPSaMW3v0PvVDRd-qF58k6vM2p9cBeJrCB0Us-2ERovc-UqHdcr3ZuQBH0fenn0lcKA6PBuCCyWegvLDa98y_Dd_XpXR2PWrHJZA_3O7F/s200/DSC_0506.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496225994454542898" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83rlnb7YQb83z6vWRWVaQtDWRsGzEqghMPKP2e2A0FDZKoeb-ErEoizxUVEUFFoD9DmjmEVKY6dbOW3IrPuxji5nib8znzNhkFDHlvPXrybLh9o7OxejTx6r8ma14ZTSyEC4wiOUhDLBB/s1600/DSC_0507.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83rlnb7YQb83z6vWRWVaQtDWRsGzEqghMPKP2e2A0FDZKoeb-ErEoizxUVEUFFoD9DmjmEVKY6dbOW3IrPuxji5nib8znzNhkFDHlvPXrybLh9o7OxejTx6r8ma14ZTSyEC4wiOUhDLBB/s200/DSC_0507.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496226154245691154" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN92J9pEBmaXzoTSJleyw0k00nIgZRLw2SL0A5AjSqdL4LZQRFDVLDwh-1Hu_DPrrHY6DfVnjeOJiKXufH7n18DSVW-fcX6omGWHcllpT4YasIPmc4GeaA3LDjyLFOQAtnChRc3abR87U0/s1600/DSC_0508.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN92J9pEBmaXzoTSJleyw0k00nIgZRLw2SL0A5AjSqdL4LZQRFDVLDwh-1Hu_DPrrHY6DfVnjeOJiKXufH7n18DSVW-fcX6omGWHcllpT4YasIPmc4GeaA3LDjyLFOQAtnChRc3abR87U0/s200/DSC_0508.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496226304220774322" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVs2rfM4K-r_BC-mB5_uV5TbaA-FRrs3VxIT4xEWmYNtZ0LJ1XNm1HQqrXxWhThs2DQ6XWqrlh86kI37vsew6CDr6nVhyphenhyphen67zLey0wrOFNlNmYW8UisuWKrtadaqczh1bg2h0Ghu_CNIoX/s1600/DSC_0509.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVs2rfM4K-r_BC-mB5_uV5TbaA-FRrs3VxIT4xEWmYNtZ0LJ1XNm1HQqrXxWhThs2DQ6XWqrlh86kI37vsew6CDr6nVhyphenhyphen67zLey0wrOFNlNmYW8UisuWKrtadaqczh1bg2h0Ghu_CNIoX/s200/DSC_0509.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496226962925892018" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" >Zone of Extreme Beauty 5.12c/d<br />Photos by Miguel Jette</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:78%;" ></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span></span></div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Earlier in the week I tried a route called Thor from the Floor (5.12d), an extension to Thor (5.12b). The extension adds two difficult boulder problems, and roughly doubles the length of the pitch. I assumed that because it took quite some time to unlock the sequences on my first attempt several days prior, it would be best to rope solo the route in order rehearse the moves. After quickly pushing through the bottom two cruxes I found myself at the more moderate section of the climb. Having a rough idea of what to do, I decided that it would be entirely possible to redpoint the route on rope solo. Unfortunately, after arriving at the fourth crux, I quickly realized that I had not taken up slack in quite some time. With the clock ticking and the holds shrinking, I knew stopping was not an option. Attempting to rectify my mistake midway through the crux would surely jeopardize my redpoint attempt. Rookie mistake!<br /><br />The last crux involves paddling through several slopey holds and gastons in order to gain a right hand pinch/undercling. Once established on the undercling, I attempted to move my feet up on poor smears in order to stab for the last shallow two finger pocket. However, seeing the sizable amount of slack I had left for myself whipping in the wind did not inspire confidence. I would like to think that my level of commitment on point is one of the few things that I am good at as a climber, but in this scenario I was completely spooked and out of my element. I halfheartedly attempted the move, grabbed the break line, and took the plunge. Amateur hour!<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0h_vXBDPUo6iSWkUGF1N3NxvR7VPiRpZqAgtbeN9sAREsVmVtxUWgok-k1vP5UXzPJXdEAf2_dTDLITpkggJIKsihnTcLTbsNaVupRg-d4Qy1mvqTq9TQoiyTammu1fUIE1fsLttYAUK/s1600/DSC_0552.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0h_vXBDPUo6iSWkUGF1N3NxvR7VPiRpZqAgtbeN9sAREsVmVtxUWgok-k1vP5UXzPJXdEAf2_dTDLITpkggJIKsihnTcLTbsNaVupRg-d4Qy1mvqTq9TQoiyTammu1fUIE1fsLttYAUK/s400/DSC_0552.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496231745151108786" border="0" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Photo by Miguel Jette<br /><br /></span></span></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Subsequent days proved to be a bit more productive. I was able to have two proper sport climbing sessions during which I was able to redpoint routes in every grade between 5.10a and 5.12d. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Though I did try routes between 5.13a and 5.13d, I ultimately found that progressing quickly in such an environment would not have been possible for me. The climbing in Lions Head is incredibly specialized. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">As the climbs become more difficult, the holds begin to disappear, and a new climbing language must be applied. It would most likely take me an entire season to develop the technique necessary to climb at Lions Head. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I suppose it was unreasonable to think that I could send at my limit in every destination without first taking the time to learn the local language.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> During my short visit, I was only able to catch a glimpse of the style that makes Lions Head both challenging and unique. Despite having my ego checked once again, I thoroughly enjoyed </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">the opportunity to explore a new destination, and to finally find some peace in solitude.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />I would like to once again thank my friend </span></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Migüel Jett</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >é for providing the photos that accompanied this and the previous post.</span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">A link to his blog can be found in the list of blogs I follow (located in the right hand margin of the page).</span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-9914788485445538062010-07-12T11:12:00.000-07:002010-07-18T02:32:18.707-07:00the scoop<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I arrived in Toronto early this morning after spending two weeks in Lions Head, ON. I would have liked to update the blog during my stay, but I was unable to secure a reliable internet connection. Despite not having access to certain modern amenities, my stay in Lions Head was a welcomed change from the typical climbing scene.<br /><br />Lions Head is a small, unassuming port town on the Bruce Peninsula located near the Georgian Bay. There are several climbing areas in the many escarpments along the bay (Whites Bluff, TV Tower, Disneyland, etc.), but I was encouraged by the locals to divide my time between the Halfway Log Dump and Lions Head.<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3stvWPAjtLq_a3Baa6VM6YYzUqzQ8YvQChDcuf0a6GY5zYFOahgCZwDEtmRkxvtkopU3YQo3U_eL2jzDu45npi-BN9-f90bgbCDaToi8DzWJasXeAexPoof1pw6zquSKZMmLxmOLhW5O/s1600/20100614_0161_bmg.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF3stvWPAjtLq_a3Baa6VM6YYzUqzQ8YvQChDcuf0a6GY5zYFOahgCZwDEtmRkxvtkopU3YQo3U_eL2jzDu45npi-BN9-f90bgbCDaToi8DzWJasXeAexPoof1pw6zquSKZMmLxmOLhW5O/s400/20100614_0161_bmg.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494030326753142882" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Halfway Log Dump</span><br /></span></div><br /><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >"The Dump," as many of the locals refer to it as, is a misleading moniker. The Dump is easily the most aesthetic bouldering area I have ever visited. While some of the boulders themselves are quite spectacular, it was primarily their location near the water that made this area stand out. These amazing black and white limestone boulders are scattered along the striking Georgian Bay. Many of the boulders are accented with a brilliant orange moss, and others are home to the Lakeside Daisy (an endangered yellow flower). I found the juxtaposition of such vibrant colors against the muted boulders incredibly appealing. It seemed improbable that such a tropical setting could exist in North America.</span><br /></div></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2io4qsv-RleSFL9BbcsK3aOa47Z5cdSnljYi0rJSAsiftE_HFwqn1HcxyTUPnGyo8UZiaiKh-gOeqR1RYt2P3nz3kLp-KH5emOPqxKQPGoTJuTOYzBSaGs7rj6d0ujLNHA1egfVlGoHAO/s1600/20100614_0149_bmg.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2io4qsv-RleSFL9BbcsK3aOa47Z5cdSnljYi0rJSAsiftE_HFwqn1HcxyTUPnGyo8UZiaiKh-gOeqR1RYt2P3nz3kLp-KH5emOPqxKQPGoTJuTOYzBSaGs7rj6d0ujLNHA1egfVlGoHAO/s400/20100614_0149_bmg.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494030021995587298" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The Whale Boulder</span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></span></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">In addition to the stunning visuals, I was also impressed by the variety of styles, and the quality of the climbing that these wind worn boulders had to offer. Though the problems were short, the movement that was dictated by their forms was incredibly satisfying to unlock. In the four days that I spent climbing at the Dump I was able to dispatch some amazing problems ranging from V1 to V8.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9_fKRaIWxsmaTEOA8g-I4CN8R1Sz7yvHx8IX7fSigfdXtqAGYFpX1usxl05s7bGuB4_Zh6Zzk4ie9ii_CYCCJKMSH_SLQ2_EthLUWpaQMTA3bQIGsV2LKt__G7oUFEVze3YpS-sLgAYc/s1600/DSC_0703.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9_fKRaIWxsmaTEOA8g-I4CN8R1Sz7yvHx8IX7fSigfdXtqAGYFpX1usxl05s7bGuB4_Zh6Zzk4ie9ii_CYCCJKMSH_SLQ2_EthLUWpaQMTA3bQIGsV2LKt__G7oUFEVze3YpS-sLgAYc/s400/DSC_0703.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494030797762827138" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:78%;">Bonnie De Brujin, Cedar Arete V7<br /><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Because the Dump is a recent <a href="http://www.ontarioclimbing.com/">Ontario Access Coalition</a> acquisition (spearheaded by local developer Adam Reeve), there are still some boulders that have not seen first ascents. The majority of the established boulder problems are moderate (V5 and below), but climbers are still finding potential in some of the most improbable looking boulders.</span></span><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzafroXSKNI5b0_vGFn8_1NaIeKPBe56U7cIFb3LWXgyWgDnxOBetaFPa_cJS9sR-JULNnxN8iFtDBsIef4Q9bZp4PcfVZpPIFs6ov8L4j4jlSVuaoEZybjAWDviWrlzYkt64EmLhn21oc/s1600/DSC_0640.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzafroXSKNI5b0_vGFn8_1NaIeKPBe56U7cIFb3LWXgyWgDnxOBetaFPa_cJS9sR-JULNnxN8iFtDBsIef4Q9bZp4PcfVZpPIFs6ov8L4j4jlSVuaoEZybjAWDviWrlzYkt64EmLhn21oc/s400/DSC_0640.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494029700565458690" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;">Beyond the main sector is an area known as Cave Point which harbors The Dump's tallest lines. Poor landings, committing moves, and big air have kept most people away from these boulders. Despite these technicalities, a few members of the Toronto crew were eager to check out the potential, and I myself had been looking at these boulders from a distance.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;">Led by local Dave Voltan, we made our way to the main event- a steep, overhanging prow precariously perched over a devastating landing 20+ feet off the deck. From the ground it was evident that just enough positive holds existed to climb this impressive feature. With the pads arranged we went to work, attempting to decipher the moves that would gain the top of the boulder. However, after a short period of time it was clear that without more pads and more spotters that this particular climb would be a bad idea. Amateur hour! Dejected, we moved on.</span><br /><br /></span></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> Behind the project we found another stunning black and white striated bloc dimpled with pale pockets. Not only was this sheer face beautiful, it was also one of the few problems that had a relatively safe landing. After some inspecting and postulating we agreed that this would be an amazing climb. The crux of the climb requires an accurate right hand cross into a Spock-grip set of pockets, a precarious right foot placement partnered with a back flag, and standing into and rolling out of a left hand, half-pad sidepull with a thumb catch located directly above the previous right hand. From this point the difficulty of the climb relents, but it remains quite committing. Two horizontal seams split the upper third of the boulder and while both seams are positive, they are quite far apart, the feet are non existent, accuracy is crucial, and a considerable amount of air separates you from the ground. Once established in the higher seam, a few moderate moves yield the top of the boulder.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVBFMbMpeu0HJP49MFVrH5eKYCq2zyNsPT8DlHQJD7dIzioS9FqCdzc0-NUvgkB-rMVS6382dStrBW55d4VRZoHGZWTKBfQwDZ2HZGAD9sVLNK_UUjUzbiTMCZaAYFRbMqHmtc4MQZOmJ/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMVBFMbMpeu0HJP49MFVrH5eKYCq2zyNsPT8DlHQJD7dIzioS9FqCdzc0-NUvgkB-rMVS6382dStrBW55d4VRZoHGZWTKBfQwDZ2HZGAD9sVLNK_UUjUzbiTMCZaAYFRbMqHmtc4MQZOmJ/s400/DSC_0306.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494756687531964018" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I found the process of finding a new boulder, discovering its weakness with a motivated crew, and ultimately topping out high off the deck incredibly satisfying. Even though the problem was moderate (V5), I have never been so adrenalized. I'm not entirely sure what constitutes a proper highball, but this problem seemed relatively tall (perhaps 20 ft). Regardless of the grade or the classification, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">it was without a doubt one of the highlights of my visit.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> Luckily, Adam Reeve was able to film the process. I'll be sure to post the footage once it becomes available.<br /><br />The remainder of my stay was spent at the cliff, but perhaps it would be best to discuss that in another post. While the time line may be off, I will continue to post about my visit throughout the week.<br /><br />I would like to thank my friend Migüel Jett</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">é</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> for providing these spectacular photographs. I have included a link to his <a href="http://www.bonuel.ca/">blog</a> on my page and I would encourage you to visit.<br /><br /></span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-80997005750413579682010-06-25T05:48:00.000-07:002010-06-28T23:22:09.667-07:00rifle<span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >After spending a week in the gym I was finally able to make it out for a few days. My first session at Clear Creek Canyon was relatively successful. After warming up on some of the longer moderate pitches, I made my way over to a route that I had tried years ago when I first began my sport climbing career. Ten Digit Dialing (5.12c) is a nearly vertical route whose popularity can be attributed to its incredibly specific crux sequence. Years ago when I first tried the route I was unable to do the majority of the crux (roughly a third of the climb) which involves navigating through quarter-pad, side-pull crimps and underclings that lead into a compression section on slopers. Things went much better this time around. I came incredibly close to sending the route while hanging the draws, but I fell short going to the positive holds that lead to the exit. After refining the sequence I was able to send the route on my second attempt. I was pleased to have made quick work of such an impressive climb. Ten Digit Dialing, while not the most demanding route, was a benchmark that allowed me to see how things have progressed over my four and a half year climbing career. I enjoy the challenge of making something that at first appears to be impossible seem effortless. I think that successfully making this transition is proof that when you stop making excuses and start working harder you will be rewarded.<br /><br />With most of the day left, I turned my attention to another route that I had tried once last summer. Interstellar Overdrive (5.13c/d) is a Tommy Caldwell route that is situated on a beautiful, gently overhung bloc at the edge of the 90's Wall. As I recall, the majority of the route clocks in at 5.13a. A marginal rest from the three-quarter mark leads to a V8 boulder problem that tackles relatively small crimps that are quite far apart. Unfortunately, the sun began to move in and forced us to retreat to a shadier crag before I had the chance to tie in. Despite the failure to launch, I plan to make this a priority when I get back to Denver. The day finished with onsights of Slammer (5.12b) and The Great Escape (5.12c) at the Wall of Justice. Neither route was remarkable, but it was certainly nice to see that my fitness had not diminished entirely after a four week absence from the sport.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sBjcBBfcrMxok96szCFlcjEx5ehIFCbTF-5a3XGMRQ96EpXkaC8TiQf01m3_ZcsIYlG5vgpH_QnQHrU-id4st9Vo5PmwrNPy56jhZ5i1LRdaT5NJ9FwLi57xVRva-c5CgsmHKNAD57lz/s1600/DSCF0903.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sBjcBBfcrMxok96szCFlcjEx5ehIFCbTF-5a3XGMRQ96EpXkaC8TiQf01m3_ZcsIYlG5vgpH_QnQHrU-id4st9Vo5PmwrNPy56jhZ5i1LRdaT5NJ9FwLi57xVRva-c5CgsmHKNAD57lz/s400/DSCF0903.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487953162160404482" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSF4rfq6M6deoE8THPQeje6AkY302zNSP4PKaSK4v3VPpkR-EyspIVgOFRXxWiwKQLGYdmvowAm0H0lH49IEZDkjPc4nVLx0JsX67hPqCnAiGo9L1Ul-sZ7o7HasmSTTd1I8NXLK8Jj57a/s1600/DSCF0903.JPG"><br /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >After a rest day, I got back on the road and headed to Rifle. Considered by most to be America's premiere sport climbing area, Rifle houses a high concentration of difficult routes within a one mile-long stretch of the canyon. I've often heard that Rifle requires a very specialized set of techniques to unlock many of the routes. After sampling routes between 5.10 and 5.13, I would have to concur.<br /><br />Typically when I visit a new area I make it a point to try as many routes as possible in order to adapt to the environment quickly. This means that every attempt is generally an onsight attempt. I've often thought that I excel at onsighting, but it quickly became clear that onsighting at Rifle is a completely different game. The climbing is much more about manipulating angles, shapes, and body positions than it is about deciphering hand sequences and pulling on holds. I found that the moves in and of themselves were quite rudimentary, but learning how to make use of the blocky terrain took some time to figure out. Further complicating things is the fact that the limestone at Rifle has been so heavily trafficked that most holds are polished. I found it difficult to fully relax my grip as I would on sandstone, and as a result was plagued with a nagging pump that rarely relented.<br /><br />Climbing in Rifle was humbling to say the least. At the end of my visit I managed to only onsight several routes between 5.11a and 5.11d. I can typically onsight 5.12+ and I even came close to onsighting 5.13a this past fall, so suffering on 5.12 was remarkably frustrating. I certainly don't think that Rifle is sandbagged. It just has a very particular style, and the approach to projecting here requires a different lens. Most climbers in the local scene, including Lynn Hill, reassured me that the learning curve at Rifle is steep. Ultimately I was forced to scale back my expectations in order to refine my technique. </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Despite not putting things on the board, </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >I truly enjoyed learning a new climbing language. Coming home empty handed is never fun, but that's the great thing about climbing- you always get a second chance.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMtgoh2qR8vBWpywQRkQxFZ2dZgOSEqho2Z-AGhbc4FqafvToupRFY_CXE7qaZ7MmFhLmXYbKtpBtmgLjz0k0jGSC-sbKHJQ6pKOBE6EvnkONk87fnKTuDjep_KyGahgFFfItuiN9fZSn/s1600/DSCF0912.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMtgoh2qR8vBWpywQRkQxFZ2dZgOSEqho2Z-AGhbc4FqafvToupRFY_CXE7qaZ7MmFhLmXYbKtpBtmgLjz0k0jGSC-sbKHJQ6pKOBE6EvnkONk87fnKTuDjep_KyGahgFFfItuiN9fZSn/s400/DSCF0912.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5487951228255989650" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >The bottom line: believe the hype. Rifle is amazing. I look forward to climbing here again when I return to the States.<br /><br />Until then, I will be spending some time in Canada. Currently I am at 35,000 feet en route to Toronto, Ontario. It's been a chaotic week jumping between planes, trains, and automobiles, but I'm psyched to see my friends and to sample some of the climbing that Canada has to offer. I've been told that Lions Head is home to brilliant limestone and breath-taking views. In addition to the sport climbing scene, I'll have the opportunity to check out some of the recently reopened bouldering spots in the area. From what little I've seen from my friend's <a href="http://www.bonuel.ca/blog/2010/06/16/the-halfway-log-dump-reopens/">blog</a>, the boulders look absolutely brilliant. I don't consider myself to be talented in this particular discipline, but I look forward to trying hard.</span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3701387623879890019.post-44004996341380202912010-06-16T19:24:00.000-07:002010-06-20T11:05:43.245-07:00drops in a bucket<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">I have spent the last week acclimating to the scene here in Denver. While the climbing community is certainly larger than that of the Red River Gorge, it has been remarkably difficult to make it out to the crag. Conditions and full-time jobs are preventing most people from going out. After speaking with several individuals it seems that these conditions (80 degrees and no humidity) are not ideal...wait. What? Clearly they have never been to the Midwest or the Southeast.<br /><br />To be fair, it did rain for three days. I have been reassured that I am not missing out on much. Local venues like Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Estes Park and RMNP would most likely be saturated and unclimbable. I suppose their regional acumen is more refined than my own, so I will trust their judgment.<br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">As a result, I have been doing most of my climbing at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder, CO. Normally I wouldn't condone such behavior, but the transition to pulling on plastic has not been difficult under the circumstances.</span></span> <span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Exceptional route setting in conjunction with the gym's layout and resources make it the obvious place to train. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">I typically spend the summer preparing for the fall season anyway, so I am excited to take advantage of such an impressive indoor facility.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOifGAE7SkD51CCHhiAQHhxUe2FJQKGFCJvkrQvhqbawHVYtCTVp3B6whMht9E3_iSxbVtPCfr0aO6Ucwv5u_xZW09aLjqixYegRH0dCiQ5nWHofURb15DKSbvTjl33CbuAUU9jRGZZWm9/s1600/DSCF0845.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOifGAE7SkD51CCHhiAQHhxUe2FJQKGFCJvkrQvhqbawHVYtCTVp3B6whMht9E3_iSxbVtPCfr0aO6Ucwv5u_xZW09aLjqixYegRH0dCiQ5nWHofURb15DKSbvTjl33CbuAUU9jRGZZWm9/s400/DSCF0845.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5484911764325510082" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkHCzp_W1H_cfv2fTdo8SSz6taiSvnVIvZ7X98Cm9JFgNl-QD2oHMc0A3P619zChx2XdjEDDlhEtDiLWFbK6QSojqMLvQzbL6l5Yh8VAey6w7jWAwWh_iyTrgfQDjrjaWEb8q7Ex2Jwez/s1600/Slide2.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 255px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkHCzp_W1H_cfv2fTdo8SSz6taiSvnVIvZ7X98Cm9JFgNl-QD2oHMc0A3P619zChx2XdjEDDlhEtDiLWFbK6QSojqMLvQzbL6l5Yh8VAey6w7jWAwWh_iyTrgfQDjrjaWEb8q7Ex2Jwez/s400/Slide2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483586395908883234" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />It's nice to have a consistent climbing routine again. I am a firm believer that consistency over time determines the difference between an average rock climber and an exceptional athlete.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> Progressing in this sport is similar to filling a bucket with water one drop at a time.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> A few dedicated workouts a week certainly won't allow you to break through the glass ceiling next month. A few dedicated workouts every week<span style="font-style: italic;"> </span>for 52 weeks, however, <span style="font-style: italic;">will</span> have an impact on your performance the following year.</span><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> Patience and perspective are indispensable allies. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Given enough time, the water level in the bucket will rise.</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">While it is certainly true that some individuals possess the genetic potential to advance quickly, the reality is that most of us are not as fortunate. Comparing yourself to other climbers is a dangerous trap that we have all fallen into at some point during our climbing careers</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">. I think it's important to remember that </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">once you've compared your abilities to another individual's, the only thing that you have succeeded in doing is making an elementary observation.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> Clearly there are stronger, more talented climbers out there. I think our time is better spent isolating personal weaknesses, developing effective strategies to target those weaknesses, and committing to a routine. </span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Over the years I've heard many people express a dissatisfaction with their performance or a desire to hit that new grade. The only thing I can offer is that it's time to stop talking and time to start working. The only way to get things done is to start. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /></span></span>yusuf daneshyarhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07757240323915874196noreply@blogger.com1