motherlode

Significant rain fall seems to be a recurring theme on the blog. Unfortunately, this post is no different. I suppose this is the rainy season here in Kentucky; it should no longer surprise me that the forecast calls for rain almost every day of the week.

Oddly enough, the rain has just recently caused a spike in humidity. The malefactor responsible for poor conditions this Spring is the fluctuating temperature. The temperature has been dropping quite low at night and rises quickly in the morning. This fluctuation rapidly condenses the moisture in the air, leaving many of the routes in the gorge unclimbable.

The Undertow
Photo by Gary Siu

The capricious nature of this climate certainly adds a different dimension to the hustle of redpointing projects. The pressure to perform is slowly creeping in simply because we don't have many opportunities to climb in sterling conditions. Even going to the crag is a gamble. It's not uncommon to wait all day for conditions that may never develop. Nevertheless, good vibes continue to prevail.

Even though we have nearly fifteen hours of sunlight, it's mostly spent waiting for what has been dubbed "the golden hour." The golden hour is the time of day during which a breeze moves in, the humidity dissipates, and the sun fades behind the clouds. We spend our downtime talking shop, rehashing beta, and discussing summer destinations until this brief window of opportunity presents itself.

While this approach doesn't allow for high mileage days, it does allow for a few successes. This past week I was able to check a few things off the list including Leave it to Beavis (5.12d), Convicted (5.13a), Forty Ounces of Justice (5.13a), and BOHICA (5.13b).

Convicted 5.13a
Photo by Gary Siu

Though I was quite happy to send Convicted (easily the best of the grade at the Red), I was pysched to have redpointed BOHICA. BOHICA tackles the savage steepness of the Madness Cave and clocks in at 100 ft. Fitness routes like BOHICA and Forty Ounces (110 ft.) are mentally taxing and physically punishing. It can be quite daunting to look up halfway through the pitch only to realize how much marathon climbing is left. I also found it quite challenging to cover so much ground knowing the consequences of punting late in the game. So much rock climbing to recall on point! Not only that, but the routes in the Madness Cave are so relentless that it is difficult to regain the physical stamina and mental fortitude necessary to redpoint. Often times, two attempts in a day are enough to cash you out for the rest of your session. Climbing in the cave is taxing, for sure.

The Madness Cave
Photo by Gary Siu

I generally dislike devoting multiple sessions to a single pitch, so I am glad that I was able to send BOHICA on my third overall redpoint attempt. I've lined up several projects since and it's a race against the clock to make them happen. The humidity that is characteristic of the summer season is oppressive and certainly makes it challenging to perform.

I've spent the last week climbing exclusively at the Motherlode, so I recently decided that a change of venue was in order. Yesterday I visited Drive-By Crag where I was able to give Kaleidoscope (5.13c) a reconnaissance burn. Conclusion: Kaleidoscope is without question the best sport route I have ever climbed. It is the quintessential line. The route ascends a beautiful prow and features powerful, committing moves from start to finish with only one rest at the halfway mark. Unabated, continuous, relentless! Hopefully I will have good news in our next correspondence.

On an unrelated note, in a previous post I accused a route called Swahili Slang of being the most sand bagged 5.12c at the Red. It was later brought to my attention that the route I attempted that day was not Swahili Slang. As it It turns out, the route I attempted was Take That Katie Brown (5.13 b/c) which has a reputation for being height dependent. Nevertheless, it is still a brilliant climb that I fully intend to return to.