saint louis

This week our climbing schedule was dictated by the weather. The rain has been relentless and there appears to be no end in sight. While the rain doesn’t necessarily limit opportunities to climb, it certainly makes day-to-day activities unpleasant. Nevertheless, we were able to endure the rain for the last three days as we were in the presence of exquisite company.

Photo by John Oungst

Friday, the Saint Louis team visited Roadside Crag where I suffered in spectacular fashion. I managed to one hang five of the thirteen pitches I attempted that day- most of which I had red pointed years ago. It was, without a doubt, amateur hour.

The week concluded with a visit to one of the Red River Gorge’s most spectacular cliffs: Midnight Surf. Midnight Surf is an impressive tidal wave of sinister sandstone that houses several five-star climbs including Iniquity (12b), Cell Block Six (12c), Tapeworm (12d), Shiva (13b), Vortex (12c), and The Crucible (12c). The appeal of Midnight Surf can be attributed to its unique look. It is unlike any other cliff at the Red. A series of fractures tear through the cliff line, offering some of the Gorge’s most enjoyable climbing.

Unknown Climber, Cell Block Six 5.12c

Sophie was, as always, generous enough to let me borrow her camera, and I was able to take photos of the Saint Louis crew putting in onsight attempts on Iniquity. Joe Kreidel was able to make a brilliant second-go ascent of Iniquity after four consecutive days on. Good work Joe!

John Oungst, Iniquity 5.12b

Calvin Hwang, Iniquity 5.12b

Joe Kreidel, Iniquity 5.12b

My Saint Louis family leaves tomorrow and it will be sad to see them go.

Spending the past week with my closest friends has been an absolute pleasure. While Saint Louis may not be the most exciting city, it certainly houses the most remarkable individuals that I have ever known. I am quite fortunate to have such compassionate people in my life.

The last few months have been emotionally difficult for me, and without the support of my friends and my family I could not have made this leap.

I have often thought that your true friends are the only people that you don't have to thank, but I want everyone to know how appreciative I am for all that you have done for me. My only hope is that I have been as good a friend to you as you have been to me. I look forward to seeing and hearing from you soon. Cheers.

My Family

on the mend

Angie Crowe, The G-Man 5.10c

Yesterday was my first day back in the saddle after a two month hiatus from the sport. Fitness is clearly an issue, but I am determined to remedy that.

A few projects still remain undone since Fall 2009, but I'm doing my best to be patient. The Red River Gorge is a unique area. No level of conditioning can prepare you better to onsight, flash, or send at your limit in this environment than simply climbing here. It seems that unless you climb here on the regular, it takes a few days to acclimate to the big steep- and that's what I intend to do.

Tuesday I was able to sneak in three pitches at Drive-By Crag before the sun had set. While it may not be the most impressive or aesthetic crag, it certainly offers a great opportunity to ease back into Kentucky climbing.

The following day I found myself at Military Wall. Determined to get on the mend, I attempted to fire off as many pitches as possible- most of which included repeats/laps of Tissue Tiger (12b), Gung Ho (12b), and the Reliquary (12b). In total I was able to hammer out ten pitches, but it was abundantly clear that the endurance game is at an all time low.

Dehydration and hulking forearms prompted me to take today off. I tried my hand at rigging a fixed line from which I was able photograph my close friends. I see the potential in photography as a new passion, and I fully intend to pursue it. I've included a few photos from today's outing, enjoy.

John Oungst, Amarillo Sunset 5.11b


Joe Kriedel, The G-Man 5.10c

Sophie Binder, The G-Man 5.10c

prologue

The past year has proved itself to be quite challenging. Faced with the harsh realities of a competitive job market, low morale, and even lower motivation to effect change in my own life, I did what people in my situation often do: I ran.

For the first time in years I find myself alone, and it has been a struggle to answer questions that only months ago I thought I had answers to. I have been grasping at straws- trying to find something, anything that has been a source of motivation, clarity, and confidence in my life.

While motivation to climb has been low, it recently occurred to me how drastically climbing has altered my life- and only for the best. I decided to abandon the pursuit of a vocation, an education, and the one thing I held close for the last two years in exchange for some clarity, sanity, and ultimately self-preservation. And so, despite numerous setbacks, I find myself in Kentucky.