looking forward to going back

Things have picked up on my end since I posted last. I've been running myself into the ground in an attempt to shore up enough cash to fund prospective travel for the upcoming Spring season. It's been a paper chase since the year started, and what little free time I have has been spent climbing in Southern Illinois and rehabbing some newly acquired injuries.

Photo by Dane Iwata

A few weeks ago I managed to strain some of the musculature in my shoulder. Being no stranger to injury, I spent two weeks icing, utilizing hot/cold therapy, and abstaining from climbing (for the most part). Despite a relatively promising recovery, I decided to see my friend Dr. Anthony Miller in order to get the 411. In the past, Dr. Miller has treated me for both medial epiconylitis in my left elbow and popliteus tendinitis in my left knee. Fully knowing how bad those particular injuries became over time, I decided to get an early start on the road to recovery. Also, having just gained some momentum in my climbing, I didn't want to jeopardize my progress by incorrectly addressing my injury.

From what I understand, and I encourage any readers who are more knowledgeable regarding this subject to correct me, my injury was the result of another weak link in the chain. When the muscles in my shoulders and back are engaged, my scapula lifts off of my back. This in turn changes the way in which related muscle groups are articulated when being used. The result of this shift is an increased strain on certain muscles as they are not meant to be stressed in such an abnormal fashion.

It was made clear to me by Dr. Miller that my prognosis was very good, and that the proactive measures I took early on made certain that I would be back in the vertical world relatively soon. It's been two weeks since I started a proper rehab routine (a combination of electro-stimulation, manipulations/massage, body weight exercises, and a comprehensive theraband workout), and things are going quite well. Although I have noticed that climbing in general doesn't seem to aggravate my shoulder, but oddly enough most activities at work (stocking, bagging, etc) do. Oh well. Gotta get paid.

In other news, I just finalized plans to hit Las Vegas during the first week in April. My friend Natalie and I have been kicking around the idea for some time now, but we were finally able to pin down specifics last week. 8 days in Sin City? Yes sir. 

I haven't climbed on a rope since I finished my Fall season in Kentucky, and I haven't been to Vegas in years. In a lot of ways Red Rock Canyon was the first place where I felt compelled to improve my climbing. It was the first proper sport climbing trip I had ever been on, and it definitely helped shape my passion for the sport. I'm looking forward to going back, running up vertical mileage, and relaxing in fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada.

Finally, last week my friend David and I made our way back to the Roost. The snow storm that was projected to devastate our region had, for the most part, missed Southern Illinois. Fantastic. 

We found three new problems, two of which are featured in the video above. While I was unable to do the long, dead-point crux move on Danger Mouse (V7), I was able to get the FA of the lesser line which climbs in from the left (Of Mice and Men, V5). Both problems are a little breezy, 20+ feet?  Get some.

Part Time Ninja (V8) was definitely the plum line- body tension, big move crimp climbing, and an exciting finish. Having spent most of my day trying Titlest (V8) at the Falls proper, I was too spent to stick the crux on point. Can't wait to go back and put both down.

Until then, it's just a run down the clock scenario.

Hueco: 8 Days