Last week I found myself back in Beattyville battling erratic conditions, a challenging to-do list, and some unforeseen domestic issues. Yikes! As you might have expected, things kicked off at the Motherlode. Predictable? Sure. Do I mind being predictable? Not really.
A new project was in the queue and the pragmatist in me decided to forfeit my "on-sight" attempt on The Madness (5.13c) in favor of doing some multi-pitch bouldering instead (I do enjoy an honest on-sight, but I'm not delusional). After two fact finding missions, my third overall attempt resulted in big links. I was able to make it through the majority of the steep section before bobbling the exit crux- a long move to and off of a sloping crimp. From there I was able to make it to the poor rest that guards the last 30 feet of climbing- which also happens to be the most difficult section.
Before I tied in, I was able to talk shop with a friend of mine who was also working the route. We both came to the conclusion that serious red-point attempts would require skipping the last two bolts before the anchor. The climbing in the upper fourth gets serious, and stopping to clip bolts would most likely jeopardize a successful summit. The last 30 feet of climbing begins with a crimpy boulder problem that features a difficult lock-off in order to gain a sparsely featured sloping beach, and ends with long pulls between flat, half to full pad crimps.
Rather than risking a big whip (I was no longer on-point, after all), I opted for the no hands rest and hung on the rope. If I fell, I would have no way to get back on, and consequently, I wouldn't be able to beta check my method for the upper fourth of the route. After catching my breath, I punched through the crux, skipped the bolts, and clipped the anchors.
Feeling satisfied with my progress, I ended the day with a second go send of Hot for Teacher (5.12c). An embarrassing on-sight attempt earlier in the day found me on the wrong side of a 50/50 shot at the chains. I tried to rectify my mistake by down climbing and attempting to execute the right sequence, but it was too late. I had totally hosed myself. Completely sauced, I made what must have appeared to be the most pathetic slap at the final hold. It was more of a wave really, as if to say "good-bye" to an otherwise flawless on-sight. Oh well. As nice as it would have been to get this route right off the bat, I certainly didn't mind giving it another go. Despite what the guidebook may lead you to believe, Hot for Teacher is quite possibly the best of the grade in the Red- definitely my new favorite. If you get a chance, check it out.
A new project was in the queue and the pragmatist in me decided to forfeit my "on-sight" attempt on The Madness (5.13c) in favor of doing some multi-pitch bouldering instead (I do enjoy an honest on-sight, but I'm not delusional). After two fact finding missions, my third overall attempt resulted in big links. I was able to make it through the majority of the steep section before bobbling the exit crux- a long move to and off of a sloping crimp. From there I was able to make it to the poor rest that guards the last 30 feet of climbing- which also happens to be the most difficult section.
Before I tied in, I was able to talk shop with a friend of mine who was also working the route. We both came to the conclusion that serious red-point attempts would require skipping the last two bolts before the anchor. The climbing in the upper fourth gets serious, and stopping to clip bolts would most likely jeopardize a successful summit. The last 30 feet of climbing begins with a crimpy boulder problem that features a difficult lock-off in order to gain a sparsely featured sloping beach, and ends with long pulls between flat, half to full pad crimps.
Rather than risking a big whip (I was no longer on-point, after all), I opted for the no hands rest and hung on the rope. If I fell, I would have no way to get back on, and consequently, I wouldn't be able to beta check my method for the upper fourth of the route. After catching my breath, I punched through the crux, skipped the bolts, and clipped the anchors.
Feeling satisfied with my progress, I ended the day with a second go send of Hot for Teacher (5.12c). An embarrassing on-sight attempt earlier in the day found me on the wrong side of a 50/50 shot at the chains. I tried to rectify my mistake by down climbing and attempting to execute the right sequence, but it was too late. I had totally hosed myself. Completely sauced, I made what must have appeared to be the most pathetic slap at the final hold. It was more of a wave really, as if to say "good-bye" to an otherwise flawless on-sight. Oh well. As nice as it would have been to get this route right off the bat, I certainly didn't mind giving it another go. Despite what the guidebook may lead you to believe, Hot for Teacher is quite possibly the best of the grade in the Red- definitely my new favorite. If you get a chance, check it out.
Photo By Robert Smith
The days to follow saw a radical turn in the weather. Gray skies, tornado warnings, and an unexpected spike in humidity forced us to temporarily abandon our projects. Things were slowing down and motivation was low. But rather than calling it quits, a clutch decision was made to scale back expectations until better weather resurfaced. Seizing the poor conditions as an opportunity to add some diversity to our climbing routine, my good friend Robert Smith took the reigns and set the agenda. Neither of us had climbed the recently revived Beer Trailer Crag, and we decided to do some reconnaissance. We spent most of the day at the main wall where I was able to on-sight three 5.12a's. I generally prefer longer routes, and even though these climbs were short, I definitely enjoyed them. Big moves, big holds- what's not to like? Once we finished sampling some of the older routes, we made our way over to the newly bolted wall where I managed to botch the on-sight of The Hang Over (5.12c)- an amazing, sustained route with a short, but proper crux halfway through the climb. I can't wait to try it again!
Despite the gloomy and potentially dangerous weather, it turned out to be a good day. It was nice to take a break from the usual routine and to spend the day just climbing- no pressure, no plans, no expectations. If you haven't been, I highly recommend visiting The Beer Trailer Crag. If things go south, you can always bail and enjoy a drink with the guys down at the Beer Trailer.
Once the weather began to pick back up, I clocked back in and got to work. A visit to the Dark Side was in order, and all available resources were diverted to the project: Elephant Man (5.13b). Short on time, I was forced to leave this particular project undone during my last visit. To say that I was eager to return to the Dark Side would be a gross understatement. Elephant Man is the sickest line I have ever tried, and I wanted it- bad. It's the epitome of precision and power endurance- a style of climbing that I enjoy, but one that I don't particularly excel at. From the ground to the sixth bolt there are no shakes, no places to chalk up, and clipping a few of the bolts is taxing for sure. The only proper rest comes after the first boulder problem. Which happens to be at the first bolt. Not very helpful. I epic-ed for three days trying to link the exit crux into the red-point crux between the fifth and sixth bolt, always succeeding in one hanging the route.
After two close calls, I was able to send the route on my third attempt that day. It was a relief to put this route down- it was a battle for sure.
Despite the gloomy and potentially dangerous weather, it turned out to be a good day. It was nice to take a break from the usual routine and to spend the day just climbing- no pressure, no plans, no expectations. If you haven't been, I highly recommend visiting The Beer Trailer Crag. If things go south, you can always bail and enjoy a drink with the guys down at the Beer Trailer.
Once the weather began to pick back up, I clocked back in and got to work. A visit to the Dark Side was in order, and all available resources were diverted to the project: Elephant Man (5.13b). Short on time, I was forced to leave this particular project undone during my last visit. To say that I was eager to return to the Dark Side would be a gross understatement. Elephant Man is the sickest line I have ever tried, and I wanted it- bad. It's the epitome of precision and power endurance- a style of climbing that I enjoy, but one that I don't particularly excel at. From the ground to the sixth bolt there are no shakes, no places to chalk up, and clipping a few of the bolts is taxing for sure. The only proper rest comes after the first boulder problem. Which happens to be at the first bolt. Not very helpful. I epic-ed for three days trying to link the exit crux into the red-point crux between the fifth and sixth bolt, always succeeding in one hanging the route.
Aaron Stover, The Force (5.13a)
Photo By Selene Ma
I've never put so many burns on a route before, and I think it's fair to say that things got a bit tense on day three. Frustration, disappointment, and self-doubt ran like poison through my veins- definitely not a good place to be if you're trying to red-point. I'm willing to admit that I enjoy dispatching projects quickly, and I suppose my ability to do most things in quick fashion has become a bit of a reputation to live up to. So, to spend so much time on one route definitely put me out of sorts.
That being said, I do realize that you can't be a super hero every day. Disappointment is a part of climbing- that's a reality, but it's important to understand that failure isn't as simple not clipping chains or having an epic burn on the project. I think the word "failure" is only applicable when an individual ends the day without learning something about themselves, their climbing, or even their project. The individuals who can set their emotions aside and learn from a disappointing day at the cliff are the ones that will continue to progress. Even staying committed when things are looking grim and returning to an illusive project over and over again is a true test of character. Resiliency has been a recurring theme this year, and I've learned that pushing through those gray areas demonstrates a capability within an individual to survive, to succeed, and to ultimately excel.
At any rate, the short lived celebration of my recent conquest had manifested itself in a series of high-fives, approving nods, and the obligatory fist bump. As they often do, gears switched quickly (I wouldn't have it any other way). We packed our things and headed back to where we began: the Lode. My friend Sammy was gearing up to put the hurt down on Skin Boat (5.13a), and I felt that it was time to give Tuna Town the on-sight attempt that I had been putting off since Spring. In the end, I was able to successfully on-sight Tuna Town (5.12d). Most probably a bit low in the grade, but a fun climb regardless. I was happy to close the book on the Motherlode with such a notorious route. I suppose it's not entirely fair to say that I am done with the Lode, but the five remaining routes are currently over my head (White Man's Overbite (hard for the grade 5.13c), White Man's Shuffle (hard for the grade 5.13d), Thanatopsis (5.14b), Transworld Depravity (5.14a), and Omaha Beach (5.14a)). Maybe next Fall? Yeah, next Fall.
On the whole, it wasn't a bad week in the office. Luckily, it looks as though the weather will be cooling off, and as always I'm excited to get back to the cliff. Halfway through the season, halfway through the list- very excited for November. The next project in the line-up happens to be one that I left undone this Spring, Kaleidoscope (5.13b/c). Hopefully we get it to go!
That being said, I do realize that you can't be a super hero every day. Disappointment is a part of climbing- that's a reality, but it's important to understand that failure isn't as simple not clipping chains or having an epic burn on the project. I think the word "failure" is only applicable when an individual ends the day without learning something about themselves, their climbing, or even their project. The individuals who can set their emotions aside and learn from a disappointing day at the cliff are the ones that will continue to progress. Even staying committed when things are looking grim and returning to an illusive project over and over again is a true test of character. Resiliency has been a recurring theme this year, and I've learned that pushing through those gray areas demonstrates a capability within an individual to survive, to succeed, and to ultimately excel.
At any rate, the short lived celebration of my recent conquest had manifested itself in a series of high-fives, approving nods, and the obligatory fist bump. As they often do, gears switched quickly (I wouldn't have it any other way). We packed our things and headed back to where we began: the Lode. My friend Sammy was gearing up to put the hurt down on Skin Boat (5.13a), and I felt that it was time to give Tuna Town the on-sight attempt that I had been putting off since Spring. In the end, I was able to successfully on-sight Tuna Town (5.12d). Most probably a bit low in the grade, but a fun climb regardless. I was happy to close the book on the Motherlode with such a notorious route. I suppose it's not entirely fair to say that I am done with the Lode, but the five remaining routes are currently over my head (White Man's Overbite (hard for the grade 5.13c), White Man's Shuffle (hard for the grade 5.13d), Thanatopsis (5.14b), Transworld Depravity (5.14a), and Omaha Beach (5.14a)). Maybe next Fall? Yeah, next Fall.
On the whole, it wasn't a bad week in the office. Luckily, it looks as though the weather will be cooling off, and as always I'm excited to get back to the cliff. Halfway through the season, halfway through the list- very excited for November. The next project in the line-up happens to be one that I left undone this Spring, Kaleidoscope (5.13b/c). Hopefully we get it to go!
That was the best climbing clip I've seen in a while. Yusuf I need your beta on DSB
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