My primary objective for my visit to Hueco was to fill out my climbing resume. Having spent little to no part of my climbing career with a focus on bouldering, I lacked a respectable catalog of problems in my personal database. Wanting to change things, I decided that it would be best for me to put together at least three problems in every grade from V0 to V8, with a secondary focus on flashing as many moderates as possible. While I could have spent the majority of my visit chasing numbers and burying harder climbs into submission, I thought that deversifying my portfolio of problems would ultimately make me a better climber.
I firmly believe that within climbing a correlation exists between performance and experience. The more experience you have (i.e. the more climbs or moves you have done or even attempted), the more prepared you'll be to execute similar climbs with unwavering precision. Furthermore, I think that experience breeds confidence, and climbing with confidence is the fine line that sets talented climbers apart from the rest.
As I mentioned in my previous post, after a disappointing start in Hueco things began to turn around. In the end I was able to get relatively close to my goal- having sent 45 different boulder problems in 10 days with at least three in every grade up to V7. Due to some complications with our East Spur tour, I was unable to try any of the V8s I had hoped to bag before my time in Hueco was up (Better Eat Your Wheaties and Mr. Serious). On the flip side, I was able to send the only V8 I attempted during my stay.
[ Favorite problems from my visit (some of which are featured in the video above) include Seka's Specialty (V2), Sign of the Cross (V3), Bloody Flapper (V4), Dragonfly (V5), See Spot Run (V6), Babyface (V7), and Ultramega (V8). All five star climbs in my book. ]
I'm definitely glad that I spent the months of December and January honing my skills as a boulderer. While the gains in strength are a bit difficult to tack down, I'm certain that I successfully rewired my brain and reformed my approach to climbing. Retooling your brain is a difficult task, one that requires intention, awareness, patience, and discipline. Often times realistic gains in climbing performance come down to flipping the switches in your head, making clear decisions, and fully committing to those decisions.
This notion was inspired during my stay in Ontario with my friend Bonnie. During a session at the Halfway Log Dump boulders, Bonnie pointed out that "trying hard" was a skill set that my climbing repertoire lacked. Now, I think most people would have been put off by a criticism of this nature. I mean, no one wants to be told that they aren't trying hard enough. Right? But, having great respect for my friend and a natural inclination to learn, I listened.
And she was right.
Always wanting to be in control, I spent years shaping my style in order to make climbing an effortless endeavor. I've often said that the appeal of climbing lies within the ability to make the seemingly impossible seem effortless. In a sense, I trained myself to climb at my limit by putting in just the right amount of effort- no more, no less. While I still think this is an important approach, it's only one side of the coin. Having the ability to flip the switch and to put the kung-fu grip down is a viable strategy- one that I had lost sight of during the last two years.
And she was right.
Always wanting to be in control, I spent years shaping my style in order to make climbing an effortless endeavor. I've often said that the appeal of climbing lies within the ability to make the seemingly impossible seem effortless. In a sense, I trained myself to climb at my limit by putting in just the right amount of effort- no more, no less. While I still think this is an important approach, it's only one side of the coin. Having the ability to flip the switch and to put the kung-fu grip down is a viable strategy- one that I had lost sight of during the last two years.
I'm looking forward to applying what I've learned on the boulders this winter to the vertical world. The weather is shifting, and luckily the transition into fitness climbing is much easier for me being that fitness is my only natural strong suit. That being the case, I figured I could get away from fitness training until the last possible minute.
So, after a considerable break from sport climbing, I'm back at it. Any and all days that I've had off work have been spent in Southern Illinois. More recently I was lucky enough to score four consecutive days off work and headed to Eastern Kentucky. (Hence the delay in updating the blog.) On the whole it was a good visit; one in which I was able to repeat old favorites and onsight/redpoint some routes I had previously overlooked.
In addition to putting in vertical mileage, I was able to kick it with my friends from Toronto- a fantastic surprise! But now it's back to the grind. The weather's completely switched gears and the rain's moving in. All signs point to keeping to the city. The next few days will be spent at the store, the gym, and the yoga studio. But I'm not sweating it.
10 days to Vegas.
So, after a considerable break from sport climbing, I'm back at it. Any and all days that I've had off work have been spent in Southern Illinois. More recently I was lucky enough to score four consecutive days off work and headed to Eastern Kentucky. (Hence the delay in updating the blog.) On the whole it was a good visit; one in which I was able to repeat old favorites and onsight/redpoint some routes I had previously overlooked.
In addition to putting in vertical mileage, I was able to kick it with my friends from Toronto- a fantastic surprise! But now it's back to the grind. The weather's completely switched gears and the rain's moving in. All signs point to keeping to the city. The next few days will be spent at the store, the gym, and the yoga studio. But I'm not sweating it.
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| John Oungst, The Glitch 5.12c (February 2009) |
10 days to Vegas.
ha! i just read this now... somehow i missed it when you posted it. anyway, i'm glad that somewhere in my rambles i had something useful to say ;). i wish i could climb routes with you more often 'cause you have a tonne of lessons for me in that domain!
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