solo team

With the first leg of my Northern Ontario tour completed, I moved on to the cliffs along the Georgian Bay- eager to see what they had to offer. My friend Greg Williamson, whom I had met in Kentucky this past Spring, spoke highly of the area. After seeing an excerpt from the film "The Continuum Project," I was sold. I spent my first day with select members of the Toronto crew, and was given a proper tour of Lions Head (which was invaluable as the guidebook has been outdated for quite some time.)

Photo by Miguel Jette

Lions Head is, by far, the most unique climbing area I have visited in my climbing career. While the climbing itself is distinct from other limestone crags I've encountered, it's unique nature truly exists in its accessibility. Unlike most crags, many of the routes do not start at the base of the cliff. The quality of the limestone here tends to diminish in certain sectors, while in others the cliff vanishes entirely- leaving a significant amount of open air between the climbable surface and the ground. As a result, many of the climbs require a hanging belay. Early on I was told that most of the locals prefer to rope solo because it offers easy access in to and out of the cliff, unparalleled efficiency, and it saves everyone from the hassle of the dreaded hanging belay.

Unknown Climber, Maneline 5.10a

Many of the Toronto natives were only around for the long Canada Day weekend, and I was subsequently left to my own devices during the majority of my stay. Eager to get after it, I committed to the reality that if any climbing was going to get done it would have to be a solo mission.

Rope soloing is a double-edged sword. While it certainly is a great way to pack in volume during a session, and a great way to suss out potential projects, it makes it quite difficult to commit to particular moves on point. Generally I don't think about the consequences of failing to execute. That's why someone else is on the other end of the rope, right? Rope soloing essentially adds another variable to an already complex equation. Typically I focus on deciphering sequences, committing to a plan, detoxing, lowering my heart rate, and maintaining a cadence. Being in charge of my own safety is something I have never had to consider, so incorporating this variable into my climbing repertoire was incredibly challenging for me. But, as in most situations, we learn to adapt.

Zone of Extreme Beauty 5.12c/d
Photos by Miguel Jette

Earlier in the week I tried a route called Thor from the Floor (5.12d), an extension to Thor (5.12b). The extension adds two difficult boulder problems, and roughly doubles the length of the pitch. I assumed that because it took quite some time to unlock the sequences on my first attempt several days prior, it would be best to rope solo the route in order rehearse the moves. After quickly pushing through the bottom two cruxes I found myself at the more moderate section of the climb. Having a rough idea of what to do, I decided that it would be entirely possible to redpoint the route on rope solo. Unfortunately, after arriving at the fourth crux, I quickly realized that I had not taken up slack in quite some time. With the clock ticking and the holds shrinking, I knew stopping was not an option. Attempting to rectify my mistake midway through the crux would surely jeopardize my redpoint attempt. Rookie mistake!

The last crux involves paddling through several slopey holds and gastons in order to gain a right hand pinch/undercling. Once established on the undercling, I attempted to move my feet up on poor smears in order to stab for the last shallow two finger pocket. However, seeing the sizable amount of slack I had left for myself whipping in the wind did not inspire confidence. I would like to think that my level of commitment on point is one of the few things that I am good at as a climber, but in this scenario I was completely spooked and out of my element. I halfheartedly attempted the move, grabbed the break line, and took the plunge. Amateur hour!

Photo by Miguel Jette

Subsequent days proved to be a bit more productive. I was able to have two proper sport climbing sessions during which I was able to redpoint routes in every grade between 5.10a and 5.12d. Though I did try routes between 5.13a and 5.13d, I ultimately found that progressing quickly in such an environment would not have been possible for me. The climbing in Lions Head is incredibly specialized. As the climbs become more difficult, the holds begin to disappear, and a new climbing language must be applied. It would most likely take me an entire season to develop the technique necessary to climb at Lions Head. I suppose it was unreasonable to think that I could send at my limit in every destination without first taking the time to learn the local language. During my short visit, I was only able to catch a glimpse of the style that makes Lions Head both challenging and unique. Despite having my ego checked once again, I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to explore a new destination, and to finally find some peace in solitude.

I would like to once again thank my friend Migüel Jetté for providing the photos that accompanied this and the previous post. A link to his blog can be found in the list of blogs I follow (located in the right hand margin of the page).

the scoop

I arrived in Toronto early this morning after spending two weeks in Lions Head, ON. I would have liked to update the blog during my stay, but I was unable to secure a reliable internet connection. Despite not having access to certain modern amenities, my stay in Lions Head was a welcomed change from the typical climbing scene.

Lions Head is a small, unassuming port town on the Bruce Peninsula located near the Georgian Bay. There are several climbing areas in the many escarpments along the bay (Whites Bluff, TV Tower, Disneyland, etc.), but I was encouraged by the locals to divide my time between the Halfway Log Dump and Lions Head.

Halfway Log Dump

"The Dump," as many of the locals refer to it as, is a misleading moniker. The Dump is easily the most aesthetic bouldering area I have ever visited. While some of the boulders themselves are quite spectacular, it was primarily their location near the water that made this area stand out. These amazing black and white limestone boulders are scattered along the striking Georgian Bay. Many of the boulders are accented with a brilliant orange moss, and others are home to the Lakeside Daisy (an endangered yellow flower). I found the juxtaposition of such vibrant colors against the muted boulders incredibly appealing. It seemed improbable that such a tropical setting could exist in North America.

The Whale Boulder

In addition to the stunning visuals, I was also impressed by the variety of styles, and the quality of the climbing that these wind worn boulders had to offer. Though the problems were short, the movement that was dictated by their forms was incredibly satisfying to unlock. In the four days that I spent climbing at the Dump I was able to dispatch some amazing problems ranging from V1 to V8.

Bonnie De Brujin, Cedar Arete V7

Because the Dump is a recent Ontario Access Coalition acquisition (spearheaded by local developer Adam Reeve), there are still some boulders that have not seen first ascents. The majority of the established boulder problems are moderate (V5 and below), but climbers are still finding potential in some of the most improbable looking boulders.

Beyond the main sector is an area known as Cave Point which harbors The Dump's tallest lines. Poor landings, committing moves, and big air have kept most people away from these boulders. Despite these technicalities, a few members of the Toronto crew were eager to check out the potential, and I myself had been looking at these boulders from a distance.

Led by local Dave Voltan, we made our way to the main event- a steep, overhanging prow precariously perched over a devastating landing 20+ feet off the deck. From the ground it was evident that just enough positive holds existed to climb this impressive feature. With the pads arranged we went to work, attempting to decipher the moves that would gain the top of the boulder. However, after a short period of time it was clear that without more pads and more spotters that this particular climb would be a bad idea. Amateur hour! Dejected, we moved on.

Behind the project we found another stunning black and white striated bloc dimpled with pale pockets. Not only was this sheer face beautiful, it was also one of the few problems that had a relatively safe landing. After some inspecting and postulating we agreed that this would be an amazing climb. The crux of the climb requires an accurate right hand cross into a Spock-grip set of pockets, a precarious right foot placement partnered with a back flag, and standing into and rolling out of a left hand, half-pad sidepull with a thumb catch located directly above the previous right hand. From this point the difficulty of the climb relents, but it remains quite committing. Two horizontal seams split the upper third of the boulder and while both seams are positive, they are quite far apart, the feet are non existent, accuracy is crucial, and a considerable amount of air separates you from the ground. Once established in the higher seam, a few moderate moves yield the top of the boulder.


I found the process of finding a new boulder, discovering its weakness with a motivated crew, and ultimately topping out high off the deck incredibly satisfying. Even though the problem was moderate (V5), I have never been so adrenalized. I'm not entirely sure what constitutes a proper highball, but this problem seemed relatively tall (perhaps 20 ft). Regardless of the grade or the classification, it was without a doubt one of the highlights of my visit. Luckily, Adam Reeve was able to film the process. I'll be sure to post the footage once it becomes available.

The remainder of my stay was spent at the cliff, but perhaps it would be best to discuss that in another post. While the time line may be off, I will continue to post about my visit throughout the week.

I would like to thank my friend Migüel Jetté for providing these spectacular photographs. I have included a link to his blog on my page and I would encourage you to visit.