got 'em

After 24 hours of rock climbing, I'm back and fully recovered. As expected, this year's event was completely out of order. 240 competitors stormed the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, AR and climbed a staggering 11,937 routes.

Eleven thousand,

nine hundred,

thirty seven routes.

Wow.

23 of those individuals joined the Century Club this year by sending a minimum of 100 routes during the 24 hour competition. Shout outs to Alex Honnold who smashed Tommy Caldwell's score, Daniel Schuerch who locked down 160 routes, and Dane Iwata and Marc Chagnon, first time competitors who each climbed 101 pitches. A huge step up from last year- definitely impressed, definitely inspired!

Photo by John Budde

I think the truly amazing thing about this event is that it allows competitors to set new personal goals every year, and there seems to be a definite evolution- from simply wanting to finish, to aiming for big numbers, to exclusively climbing on gear, to gunning for the top 10. The list of possible challenges and their combinations is endless. It's crazy! 24HHH has a versatility that a traditional climbing competition just doesn't have. I suppose the primary goal would be to place top 3, but it's nice to throw out the conventional competitive playbook as it were, and to, instead, construct your own personal goal(s). I often joke that no one actually wins this event (I mean, really- you're essentially suffering for 24 hours), but the reality is that this is the only event where there can be 240 winners. A bit after-school special, I know, but it's refreshing to see such camaraderie, and such genuine congratulatory exchanges between competitors. It's mind blowing how supportive this community is.

The only way I can think to describe the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is that it's like going to war. I apologize if this analogy seems crass or in bad taste, but you're sharing an incredibly unique experience with strangers who quickly become allies and friends. You help carry each other, you're invested in everyone's performance, and you want everyone to make goal- to make it to Sunday morning. And, once it's over, you share a connection, a bond, that no one else can relate to. It's a difficult energy to articulate, but perhaps you'll have to sign up next year to find out!

Photo by Gina Wilmott

Even though we hadn't talked about the competition much (or at all, really), my partner John and I had a clear objective for this year's two-four. We both wanted to climb 100 routes over the course of 24 hours. When we broke it down to the numbers (i.e. how many routes we needed to average per hour, how much time we could spend on a each route to stay on target, etc.), the task seemed daunting- impossible, really. But, the challenge of making the seemingly impossible seem effortless is what draws me to climbing, and I certainly wasn't going to let doubt dictate the outcome of this event.

Now, I'm not much for planning; so scoping out routes beforehand, keeping track of our progress, and watching the clock seemed like too much work for me. Instead, we came to the conclusion that the best strategy was to keep it simple.

We decided to wing it.

Admittedly, the sustainability of the "Can't Stop, Won't Stop" campaign did come into question early on, but it was the only plan we had, so we rolled with it. We also made it a point to not keep track of our progress- we simply updated our scorecard when time permitted. I didn't want us to feel dejected if we were behind, or to relax our pace if we were ahead. I think it's important to never let doubt or hubris dictate the outcome- you have to stay hungry, regardless of how things are transpiring, if you want to succeed. That being said, we hadn't looked at our progress until the halfway point. When we turned in our scorecards at the check-in, we were stoked to see that we were on track. At 10 p.m. we had bagged 50 routes each! Yeah-yuh!

Photo by Scott Fitzgerald

Fueled by the good news and the good vibes that electrified the North 40, we punched the clock. A brief rain shower in the middle of the night gave us a bit of a scare. We were, of course, worried that if the rain continued (or worse, intensified), our chances of making goal would be jeopardized. Fortunately, the rain moved out and when all was said and done, John and I had exceeded our goal (albeit by a small margin). We each climbed 106 routes- 212 total over the course of 24 hours, and we also managed to eke our way into the top 10. Got 'em!

Can't Knock This Hustle

It was a big year for the two four event- I can't thank Andy, his team, the HCR Staff, the volunteers, the sponsors, and, of course, Barry and Amy enough for putting on such an amazing event year, after year. It truly is one of the best climbing events in the country- if not the best. If visiting the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is part of your Fall season, please make sure to follow the new guidelines. Do your part by picking up trash and paying for your camping/day-use fees. Barry, Amy, Jason, and the crew are nice enough to let us climb on the property, we should reciprocate by respecting their rules!

Thanks for reading, we'll see everyone next year! I can't wait!

Video by Andy Chasteen

time check

This past Saturday marked my first day back in Southern Illinois since March. Admittedly, a visit to Jackson Falls this early on may have been a bit premature, but I was driven by sheer desperation. In the three years that I've been climbing in Illinois, I have never once bothered to visit during the summer. But, weeks of pulling on plastic, and the prospect of spending the day with my friends made my decision an easy one to make. Humidity, the conventional kryptonite, was relatively low, and a session at Railroad Rock made things far more enjoyable as we were able to dodge direct sun-light.

Photo by Alex Gamble, 24HHH 2008

All things considered, it was a fairly productive day. The day began with an onsight of American Hand Gunner (5.11d), a route notoriously difficult for the grade. American Hand Gunner was a route that I always wanted to do, but never made time for. Limited time, and higher priority projects always forces certain routes further, and further down the list. It's unfortunate, because many of these routes are often five-star. They simply don't see as much traffic because they happen to be low in the grade. Stop chasing numbers!

From the ground, American Hand Gunner (like most routes at the Falls) seemed impervious to attack. A closer look revealed a weakness, albeit not much of one. I'll spare the heavy details, but it is definitely worth checking out. American Hand Gunner is like Hidden Treasure (5.12a), without the fluff. Sequential pockets, long moves, a proper boulder problem on credit card sized crimps, and an exciting top out. It's a brilliant example of the unique brand of challenging movement only found in Southern Illinois. Stellar!

The rest of the day included a repeat of Barbarians at the Gate (5.12a/b), an exciting lesson in poor decision making on Slabstick Comedy (5.12a), and a less than valiant effort on Everybody Needs Friends (5.12a).

I still find it surprising that people don't recognize Jackson Falls as a five-star locale. Southern Illinois is home to the most brilliant and engaging sandstone I have ever encountered. And sure- with my limited experience, that may not be the highest of endorsements. But, for what it's worth, I still think So Ill is top notch.

www.twofourhell.com

In other news, the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell Competition is this weekend. I've teamed up with my friend John Oungst, who, back in 2006, was my partner during the first 24HHH. I'm excited to have John on board, and I can't wait to cover as much vertical mileage as possible! I'll be sure to chronicle the weekend once we've had a chance to recover from the self-inflicted sleep deprivation. Fortunately for us, the weather looks as if it will be letting up. Even though we'll be suffering on the inside, we can at least enjoy blue skies, good conditions, and the company of the 200+ individuals who will all inevitably regret their decision to sign up for this event.

Yeah-Yuh!

Which reminds me- Fall is fast approaching! Months of relentless plastic pulling, hyper-focused conditioning, and over-all suffering for that singular pursuit is about to pay off. Despite the ups and downs along the way, I'm excited for the season. I've outlined a few goals/projects, and the plan is to stay focused, to stay hungry, and to grow from the experience. Staying driven is key- it's commitment, not excuses, that makes progress possible. That being said- enjoy this short by Mike Call, featuring Jacinda Hunter, and get psyched for your season!

the weekend warrior

Photo by Aaron Stover

Two weeks have passed since I returned home from the last leg of my trip. Things have slowed down a bit, and transitioning into a different lifestyle certainly has its challenges. Being that the season at home has yet to turn over, climbing has been put on the back burner. My responsibilities are few and far between, and I've found it difficult to flesh out an agenda. I've been spending most of my time working on some long standing household projects, route setting at the gym, nursing old injuries, and, of course, training on plastic.

Photo by Sophie Binder

Despite the limbo, the Fall season is making its way in and motivation is high. Though I have not finalized my decision, I am strongly leaning towards deferring employment until the end of the season. After several months on the road, I realized that I no longer want the full time job I had pursued so aggressively last year- at least not at the moment. Flexibility and spontaneity are far more rewarding than a paycheck. Certainly, if something lucrative were to make itself available I would not turn it down (I may be young, but I'm not foolish). I realize that I can only use my age as an excuse for so long, but I've had my fill of planning. Since March, the plan has been to have no plan, and this maxim has turned 2010 (an otherwise crippling year) around.

So now I find myself, not waiting, but simmering- anticipating a rapid change for the best. Though my mother's health is improving, I plan to stay home until the end of her treatment. Leaving for another two months at this stage would be a bad call. Instead, I have decided to join the ranks as a weekend warrior. It's been a long time since I've had to commute to the office, but, as they often do, situations and circumstances change, and in order to succeed, we must adapt. Initially, I feared that without a proper season (one in which I moved to the crag) I would not be able to accomplish many of my short term and long term goals, but my good friend and personal hero, Rob Smith, assured me that even weekend visits can yield high returns.

So, this weekend I punched the clock and set out for the Red. My goals were to do some reconnaissance on prospective projects for the season, and to clean up shop at the Motherlode. I left Kentucky at the end of the Spring thinking that I had finished every 13a at the Lode, but a closer inspection of the guidebook revealed that I had overlooked a route called "Hoofmaker." Hoofmaker is an amazing route that features an incredibly physical and seemingly improbable boulder problem through the first four bolts, and concludes with sustained, fitness-based climbing.

My first day on the route was disappointing to say the least. Hot, hot heat and humid conditions contributed to an embarrassing onsight attempt, and an uninspired second go beta burn. Dejected, I decided that a partial day of multi-pitch bouldering had, at the very least, given me an idea as to how the route goes. The following day conditions were a bit better. Most of the humidity had burned off (key) and it was a bit cooler as well. I was able to one hang the route on my first go, and after acquiring some savvy beta from Cincinnati resident Scott Fisk, I was able to clip the chains next go. Yeah-yuh!

The day ended with a flash of Rocket Dog (5.12b), thanks to my good friend, John Oungst, who provided all the vitals. Climbing is full of short-lived victories, and I wouldn't have it any other way. I think being hungry despite the results (good or bad) is what makes progress possible.

This in mind, I turned my attention to the Madness Cave and ran a lap on Flour Power (5.13b). Knowing I was in no position to give it a proper onsight attempt, I chose instead to beta check the route by going bolt to bolt in the steep section. Initial impressions? Way steep, way killer, way psyched! The climbing following the obligatory sit down rest tackles small pockets and perfect crimps which give way to finger buckets at the fifth bolt. A race to the second to last bolt yields a great rest before the last tough bit- a long left hand cross through (either from a knee bar, heel hook, or a distant right foot) to a positive hold, a match, and several moves through sloping crimps. It's not quite as sustained as BOHICA, and some of the holds are considerably larger, but it certainly is cruxier. When things cool off I'll be back to make big links, clip chains, and Push up Daisies (5.13c)!

Tony O'Connor Straight Hustlin'

Despite the touch and go conditions, the weekend was a complete success. Team Saint Louis rolled on the Gorge deep (twenty people in total), making for great company, great conversation, and great entertainment. I even got hooked up with a haircut! Thanks again, Marion! It's a shame that full-time jobs prevent us from doing these sort of things more often, but I'm sure there will be other opportunities to hang. Until then, cheers!

Homies

utah update

Early last week, I had the pleasure of picking up a good friend from the Salt Lake City Airport. I last saw John when I returned to Illinois to see my parents, so it was great to have an old friend on board for the last leg of the trip. John had originally planned to spend a week in Colorado with Team Saint Louis (Kevin Boicourt, Dane Iwata, and Marc Chagnon), but at the last minute he scrapped Plan A in order to climb on cobbles with the boys from Illinoise.

Despite a relatively new finger injury, a several week absence from the sport, and some misplaced skin, John showed up with his A game- quickly dispatching several 5.12's including Orgasmo (5.12c), Hooked on Estrogen (5.12c), Functional Idiot (5.12b, Onsight), and The Drizzler (5.12b). Early on John had expressed concerns about his performance, so it was good to see him put things on the board.

Photo by Aaron Stover

I, on the other hand, did not have much luck with my projects. It was a frustrating week as hopes were high to put down Loser (5.13a) and Sprout (5.13a). I was able to one hang both routes quickly, but subsequent attempts on these pitches bore no fruit. I successfully managed to one hang Sprout four times, and also managed to lose my high point on Loser on my third attempt. What?

Loser, 5.13a
Photo by Aaron Stover

Within the last year I have become accustomed to sending 13a relatively quickly. I certainly thought these two routes (which suited me well) would go with little effort. Both routes feature sustained climbing with only one knee bar rest at the half way mark, and long lived crux sections. On my last attempt on Sprout I was able to unlock the knee bar rest that would have made linking the second half of the route possible, but my time ran out.

It was disappointing to have spent three entire weeks in Maple only to leave empty handed. It certainly put me in a strange headspace. I felt as though both routes were well within my ability, but I couldn't shake the anxiety that stemmed from the countdown. Every day I was thinking about getting things done so I could either move on to the next pitch or leave Maple entirely. Time lines have never affected my performance. I generally climb at my own pace, but with the sand running through the hour glass, I suppose I put a great deal of unneeded pressure on myself.

Photo by Aaron Stover

I enjoy redpointing routes quickly, but not because I derive pleasure from expanding some sort of tick list. I think that being able to link a route in a few attempts demonstrates natural talent and unparalleled focus. When you've tried a route several times, you begin to hardwire it- the moves become ingrained and your body adapts to the stresses specific to that route. While it's true that projecting requires multiple failures before a single success, I think that sending a route because all the moves have been dialed only demonstrates the ability to adapt to repetitive behavior. I don't find sending a route that has been dialed rewarding in the least. Everyone has different philosophies or standards regarding their personal climbing performance, perhaps I am a bit too critical?

At any rate, I decided that the remainder of my time in Maple would be better spent sampling more of the canyon's 5.12s. In total, I was able to put together 20+ routes between 5.12a and 5.12d all of which I was able to either onsight or redpoint second go. It was nice to consistently onsight 5.12c, and to even bag two 5.12d onsights.

In climbing, I think it's key to roll with the punches. It's understandable to feel down when your ego is checked or when your expectations unexpectedly need to be re-evaluated, but learning to adapt to changing situations is part of being a climber. Whether you're retooling a sequence onsight or redefining your short term and long term goals, it's crucial to take a step back, collect yourself, and find a different approach. Rest assured, if you remain stubborn, you will stunt your growth. While I could have pushed John and Aaron to trek back to the Pipe Dream cave for one more attempt, it seemed that I could learn more by solidifying my base, focusing on revamping my onsight/redpoint tactics, and ultimately being humbled by leaving some short term goals open-ended. Regardless of my mediocre performance, it was nice to climb in a new locale with two of my good friends.

On an unrelated note, we managed to arrange our last rest day around the Miss Sanpete County 2010 Beauty Pageant- a definite highlight. Unfortunately for us, poor planning on our part forced us to sit in the back of the theater, and being that my eye sight is quite poor, I was unable to make out much of Sanpete County's finest. After a heated swimsuit competition which featured entirely too many one-pieces, and the talent portion of the event which showcased an unfortunate oboe piece and a less than spectacular vocal performance of "I Need a Hero," we were able to hear from the contestants regarding their service platforms. In the end, one of the indescribable, blurry young women was crowned Miss Sanpete and the rest were given some sort of conciliatory title (Miss Congeniality, Miss Something or Other, etc). While there was quite the turn out for the event, it seemed as though Ephraim was shutting down for the night, so we hit the bricks and headed back to Maple Canyon.

In other news, our departure date is approaching fast, and in order to break up the long drive home we've decided to stop in Rifle, CO. After sampling some more of the States' best limestone crag, we'll make tracks for Boulder where we'll post up for a night at our friend Kika's place. Then we're heading East of East Saint Louis- I'm definitely psyched to go home, spend time with my family, see my friends, and plan out my Fall season. Get psyched!

we have arrived

Admittedly, I have been doing a poor job of updating the blog. Traveling has made finding time, and a reliable internet connection difficult. That being said, I have decided to fast track the blog in the interest of keeping the time line current. The few of you who are interested in knowing what went down in Canada please feel free to write, call, or share a comment.

Near the end of my stay in Kentucky, my good friend Aaron and I had discussed spending part of our Summer in Maple Canyon, UT. Initially it was just a thought- a plan that had been tabled once we agreed to visit our Canadian friends instead. When we found out that Aaron would be unable to make it up North, we decided to dust off Plan B. Two weeks after I arrived Stateside, Aaron flew into Denver and we made tracks for Utah.


I should start by noting that the first leg of our trip was a logistical nightmare. Running on six hours of sleep, we attempted to gather the equipment we so desperately needed, but failed to pack. A trip to the Denver Goodwill proved to be one of our few initial successes. We were able to procure a cook set, kitchenware, dishes, utensils, and a dry bin for under $15. It was a relief to have gotten everything we needed without breaking the bank. Between the two of us, we only had $350. Our financial situation was looking grim, and fully knowing that we may not have enough money for groceries, petrol, and camping fees for three weeks, we decided to go for it anyway. Why not? It's always the perfect season somewhere, right? We certainly didn't want to miss out. With the car packed, we set off for Maple.

Ordinarily, the 500 mile drive between Denver, CO and Moroni, UT should take 8 hours. However, after discovering that all of the campsites at Maple had been reserved, we were forced to drive an additional 3 hours before we found another available campsite.

In the next town over.

An hour away from the crag.

Unbelievable.

Two consecutive days without sleep made it challenging to muster up the energy to hit the cliff, but we made it a point to climb three days on any way. We knew that we needed to build a base if anything was going to get done during our short stay. Our first two days were rough to say the least. We succeeded in doing the fewest number of pitches I have ever done during a session. After miraculously making it up three entire pitches at the Minimum Wall, we called it quits. Our second session at Box Canyon yielded the same results. Between our poor sleep schedule, our sub-par performance at the cliff, and our bleak financial situation, it seemed like nothing was going right.

Things finally turned around on our third day. After catching up on some much needed sleep, and moving our campsite into Maple Canyon proper, we managed to get to the cliff at a reasonable time. In addition to the normalcy, we were able to log six pitches each, most of which were roughly 90 feet. It was a relief to have finally put one good day on the board. After three days of suffering, it would appear that we finally hit our stride. I have been enjoying the climbing here quite a bit, perhaps because it is relatively similar to the Gorge- steep, fitness-based climbing. Notable ascents so far have been onsights of Big Calm (12b), Orgasmo (12c), Space Lordz (12d), and a redpoint of Cobble in the Sky (12c)- all of which clock in between 90 and 100 ft. So psyched!

Chris Sharma, UBC 2010 Problem #2
Photo by Aaron Stover

Tomorrow we're heading to Salt Lake City to check out the OR Trade Show. We're planning to catch the UBC Pro Tour in the evening, and if we're lucky, we might be able to sneak into the trade show to see whats new for 2011. Regardless of how our rest day goes, we're going to hit it hard the following day. The Pipe Dream cave is an impressive crag and has several amazing routes- all of which tear through a 100+ foot cave. Serious! A friend of mine turned me on to a route called The Great Feast (5.13c). I'm definitely excited to see how things go now that we have arrived in a positive head space.

But, as always, all good things must come to an end. As I am writing this, water is slowly making its way into my tent through every available weakness. Who knew that it could rain this much in the desert? If I don't drown tonight I will do my best to update the blog more frequently. Traveling has made it difficult, but I'm sure things will settle out soon. They always do.

solo team

With the first leg of my Northern Ontario tour completed, I moved on to the cliffs along the Georgian Bay- eager to see what they had to offer. My friend Greg Williamson, whom I had met in Kentucky this past Spring, spoke highly of the area. After seeing an excerpt from the film "The Continuum Project," I was sold. I spent my first day with select members of the Toronto crew, and was given a proper tour of Lions Head (which was invaluable as the guidebook has been outdated for quite some time.)

Photo by Miguel Jette

Lions Head is, by far, the most unique climbing area I have visited in my climbing career. While the climbing itself is distinct from other limestone crags I've encountered, it's unique nature truly exists in its accessibility. Unlike most crags, many of the routes do not start at the base of the cliff. The quality of the limestone here tends to diminish in certain sectors, while in others the cliff vanishes entirely- leaving a significant amount of open air between the climbable surface and the ground. As a result, many of the climbs require a hanging belay. Early on I was told that most of the locals prefer to rope solo because it offers easy access in to and out of the cliff, unparalleled efficiency, and it saves everyone from the hassle of the dreaded hanging belay.

Unknown Climber, Maneline 5.10a

Many of the Toronto natives were only around for the long Canada Day weekend, and I was subsequently left to my own devices during the majority of my stay. Eager to get after it, I committed to the reality that if any climbing was going to get done it would have to be a solo mission.

Rope soloing is a double-edged sword. While it certainly is a great way to pack in volume during a session, and a great way to suss out potential projects, it makes it quite difficult to commit to particular moves on point. Generally I don't think about the consequences of failing to execute. That's why someone else is on the other end of the rope, right? Rope soloing essentially adds another variable to an already complex equation. Typically I focus on deciphering sequences, committing to a plan, detoxing, lowering my heart rate, and maintaining a cadence. Being in charge of my own safety is something I have never had to consider, so incorporating this variable into my climbing repertoire was incredibly challenging for me. But, as in most situations, we learn to adapt.

Zone of Extreme Beauty 5.12c/d
Photos by Miguel Jette

Earlier in the week I tried a route called Thor from the Floor (5.12d), an extension to Thor (5.12b). The extension adds two difficult boulder problems, and roughly doubles the length of the pitch. I assumed that because it took quite some time to unlock the sequences on my first attempt several days prior, it would be best to rope solo the route in order rehearse the moves. After quickly pushing through the bottom two cruxes I found myself at the more moderate section of the climb. Having a rough idea of what to do, I decided that it would be entirely possible to redpoint the route on rope solo. Unfortunately, after arriving at the fourth crux, I quickly realized that I had not taken up slack in quite some time. With the clock ticking and the holds shrinking, I knew stopping was not an option. Attempting to rectify my mistake midway through the crux would surely jeopardize my redpoint attempt. Rookie mistake!

The last crux involves paddling through several slopey holds and gastons in order to gain a right hand pinch/undercling. Once established on the undercling, I attempted to move my feet up on poor smears in order to stab for the last shallow two finger pocket. However, seeing the sizable amount of slack I had left for myself whipping in the wind did not inspire confidence. I would like to think that my level of commitment on point is one of the few things that I am good at as a climber, but in this scenario I was completely spooked and out of my element. I halfheartedly attempted the move, grabbed the break line, and took the plunge. Amateur hour!

Photo by Miguel Jette

Subsequent days proved to be a bit more productive. I was able to have two proper sport climbing sessions during which I was able to redpoint routes in every grade between 5.10a and 5.12d. Though I did try routes between 5.13a and 5.13d, I ultimately found that progressing quickly in such an environment would not have been possible for me. The climbing in Lions Head is incredibly specialized. As the climbs become more difficult, the holds begin to disappear, and a new climbing language must be applied. It would most likely take me an entire season to develop the technique necessary to climb at Lions Head. I suppose it was unreasonable to think that I could send at my limit in every destination without first taking the time to learn the local language. During my short visit, I was only able to catch a glimpse of the style that makes Lions Head both challenging and unique. Despite having my ego checked once again, I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to explore a new destination, and to finally find some peace in solitude.

I would like to once again thank my friend Migüel Jetté for providing the photos that accompanied this and the previous post. A link to his blog can be found in the list of blogs I follow (located in the right hand margin of the page).

the scoop

I arrived in Toronto early this morning after spending two weeks in Lions Head, ON. I would have liked to update the blog during my stay, but I was unable to secure a reliable internet connection. Despite not having access to certain modern amenities, my stay in Lions Head was a welcomed change from the typical climbing scene.

Lions Head is a small, unassuming port town on the Bruce Peninsula located near the Georgian Bay. There are several climbing areas in the many escarpments along the bay (Whites Bluff, TV Tower, Disneyland, etc.), but I was encouraged by the locals to divide my time between the Halfway Log Dump and Lions Head.

Halfway Log Dump

"The Dump," as many of the locals refer to it as, is a misleading moniker. The Dump is easily the most aesthetic bouldering area I have ever visited. While some of the boulders themselves are quite spectacular, it was primarily their location near the water that made this area stand out. These amazing black and white limestone boulders are scattered along the striking Georgian Bay. Many of the boulders are accented with a brilliant orange moss, and others are home to the Lakeside Daisy (an endangered yellow flower). I found the juxtaposition of such vibrant colors against the muted boulders incredibly appealing. It seemed improbable that such a tropical setting could exist in North America.

The Whale Boulder

In addition to the stunning visuals, I was also impressed by the variety of styles, and the quality of the climbing that these wind worn boulders had to offer. Though the problems were short, the movement that was dictated by their forms was incredibly satisfying to unlock. In the four days that I spent climbing at the Dump I was able to dispatch some amazing problems ranging from V1 to V8.

Bonnie De Brujin, Cedar Arete V7

Because the Dump is a recent Ontario Access Coalition acquisition (spearheaded by local developer Adam Reeve), there are still some boulders that have not seen first ascents. The majority of the established boulder problems are moderate (V5 and below), but climbers are still finding potential in some of the most improbable looking boulders.

Beyond the main sector is an area known as Cave Point which harbors The Dump's tallest lines. Poor landings, committing moves, and big air have kept most people away from these boulders. Despite these technicalities, a few members of the Toronto crew were eager to check out the potential, and I myself had been looking at these boulders from a distance.

Led by local Dave Voltan, we made our way to the main event- a steep, overhanging prow precariously perched over a devastating landing 20+ feet off the deck. From the ground it was evident that just enough positive holds existed to climb this impressive feature. With the pads arranged we went to work, attempting to decipher the moves that would gain the top of the boulder. However, after a short period of time it was clear that without more pads and more spotters that this particular climb would be a bad idea. Amateur hour! Dejected, we moved on.

Behind the project we found another stunning black and white striated bloc dimpled with pale pockets. Not only was this sheer face beautiful, it was also one of the few problems that had a relatively safe landing. After some inspecting and postulating we agreed that this would be an amazing climb. The crux of the climb requires an accurate right hand cross into a Spock-grip set of pockets, a precarious right foot placement partnered with a back flag, and standing into and rolling out of a left hand, half-pad sidepull with a thumb catch located directly above the previous right hand. From this point the difficulty of the climb relents, but it remains quite committing. Two horizontal seams split the upper third of the boulder and while both seams are positive, they are quite far apart, the feet are non existent, accuracy is crucial, and a considerable amount of air separates you from the ground. Once established in the higher seam, a few moderate moves yield the top of the boulder.


I found the process of finding a new boulder, discovering its weakness with a motivated crew, and ultimately topping out high off the deck incredibly satisfying. Even though the problem was moderate (V5), I have never been so adrenalized. I'm not entirely sure what constitutes a proper highball, but this problem seemed relatively tall (perhaps 20 ft). Regardless of the grade or the classification, it was without a doubt one of the highlights of my visit. Luckily, Adam Reeve was able to film the process. I'll be sure to post the footage once it becomes available.

The remainder of my stay was spent at the cliff, but perhaps it would be best to discuss that in another post. While the time line may be off, I will continue to post about my visit throughout the week.

I would like to thank my friend Migüel Jetté for providing these spectacular photographs. I have included a link to his blog on my page and I would encourage you to visit.